JB9

I've been looking into setting up knock control on my MR2, but figured that this must have been done many times before, so.. Could anyone recommend decent settings for use with the stock Toyota knock sensor setup? (Not just the filter setting, but a generic starting point for the rest as well, I mean). Not sure if I'm worthless at searching, or if people aren't using knock control with the stock sensor. The suggested filter settings table says something like "3SGTE with aftermarket Bosch sensor".

Thanks guys! I'm quite familiar with the theory behind it all, its just that on my Saabs (the non-biopower ones) I run the worthless Siemens Deka IV injectors (they have even worse atomisation than these Bosch ones AFAIK) and they start up quite fine in cold without crazy amounts of fuel on startup, so I'm a bit baffled how this 4G63 can be so angry about this. Granted, those Saab engines (and the OEM ECUs) may of course have other characteristics making it easier for them. Anyhow, I'm thinking maybe I should just zero out both the prime and crank enrich tables and start over? I took over after previous owner of the car had a "protuner" tune the car so I just continued where they left off. Warm start and warm idle works fine. Maybe I should look into the idle steps on cold start as well? See if it maybe simply isnt getting enough air?

Hi! I'm in Sweden and need cold start to work somewhat OK down to at least 0degC. I'm running my Evo IV on pump E85, so probably around 75% EC. Bosch 870cc injectors. Fully warmed up it idles somewhat stable now, around Lambda 1.0, 6deg BTDC, and 850rpm. Today I tried a cold start at 14degC ambient temp. Took a few seconds of cranking, but it started up quite ok. But to get it to this point, I have had to set crank enrichment to the maximum of 600%, so at a colder ambient temp it will still struggle a lot, since I can't increase it more. Pre-crank prime at this ambient temp is set to ~28-29. Could someone point me in the right direction here? Surely I shouldn't have to max out crank enrichment for it to start decent? Am I going about this all wrong?

Hi guys. I have a Evo 6 4G63 engine with Bosch 2200cc injectors (a choice made by the previous owner...), running on E85. Stock turbo but bigger exhaust etc. Works somewhat fine when driving, and I have gotten idle kinda stable after a lot of fiddling with low pulse width adder table etc. BUT. I can't seem to find a setting for accel enrichment that makes that inital 0-20ish% TPS stab work well. It always does a cough before actually increasing revs. Are there any generic guidelines here I should follow? I also suspect that the spray pattern on these injectors isn't perfect, especially since they seem to sit inside some kind of bottom adapter thingy which makes them spray quite far away from the stock injectors spray position. Would that make this impossible to fix?

Ok, thanks. I have 2x Evo 4, One 1996 and one later 1997 model. Both cars have them. But if you haven't seen them before -- would that mean that the newer Evos don't have them?

Hi! I have an Evo IV with the G4+ Plugin. Could someone tell me what the object pictured is? There are two of them. What are their function/purpose/name, and are they still used, even when stock ECU is no longer present? Thanks.

Thanks for the quick reply. Will disconnect and remove it. 3. Don't you mean if it got stuck in the closed position? That would mean no vacuum control, thus 3bar (or whatever base pressure is on these) all the time?

Hi. I bought an Evo IV with an Evo VI engine in it a few months back. Has a G4+ plugin ecu. Today I noticed that the car has a vacuum solenoid valve connected in-line with the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator. Never seen that before, my cars tend to have one hose from the intake manifold going directly to the FPR. Checked the Ralliart workshop manual, and it seems like it actually is supposed to be hooked up like that. 1. Why? What does it do/help with? 2. Do I still need it when the car is on the Link ECU? I can't find anything under Auxiliary Outputs that resembles this valve. 3. If it's no longer supposed to be there, could that potentially cause fueling issues? Thanks.

Thanks CJ. I adjusted the dead times to what that table says, and it made a small difference. After that, I copied the settings from the Injector Dynamics ID2000, which is their 2200cc injector. I figured the characteristics should at least be similar. This helped a lot, so fueling definitely seems to be the culprit here. It's not 100% ok yet though, but I now have a somewhat stable idle at 980-1020rpm. I'll do some more fiddling to see how close to the stock 750rpm I can get.

bumping this thread -- Does anyone have the short pulse width adder values for these injectors? dead time seems to be 0,45ms @ 14V @ 3bar.

Sorry, could have mentioned that earlier. They are Bosch 2200cc/min @ 3bar, 0280158821. This is the info I keep finding everywhere for them: Coil Resistance: 9.1 Ohms Dead Time: 0.45ms at 14 voltsStatic Flow Rate @ 43.5 PSI ( 300kPa ) w/Gas: 2200 cc/min = 210 lb/hrStatic Flow Rate @ 58 PSI ( 400kPa ) w/Gas: 2550 cc/min = 240 lb/hrStatic Flow Rate @ 78.5 PSI ( 500kPa ) w/Gas: 2865 cc/min = 273 lb/hrStatic Flow Rate @ 88 PSI ( 600kPa ) w/Gas: 3155 cc/min = 300 lb/hrStatic Flow Rate @ 101.5PSI ( 700kPa ) w/Gas: 3350 cc/min = 320 lb/hrConnector: Denso / SumitomoInjector Length: O-Ring to O-Ring: 1.5. / 37.5 mmInjector Body Diameter: 16mmO-Ring: 14.5mm VitonAcceptable Fuels: Gas/Petrol, alcohol/methanol, E85, CNG Looking at that -- Would you say the tuner has set it up wrong? Or perhaps a "normal" idle is too much to hope for with those? I've never had a car with anything "bigger" than 875cc before so I wouldn't really know. EDIT: Found this info on one site as well: Bosch 2200cc 0280158821 43psi / 58psi / 70psi / 80psi 8 V 1.45 / 1.67 / 1.82 / 1.96 10 V .95 / 1.10 / 1.17 / 1.27 12 V .68 / .78 / .84 / .93 14 V .47 / .57 / .64 / .70 16 V .36 / .46 / .49 / .52 Static Flow Rate: 2200cc @ 43.5psi / 3bar Static Flow Rate: 2550cc @ 58psi / 4bar Car runs the stock Denso 3260 FPR which is set to 3bar/43psi AFAIK.

Sorry for the late reply, haven't had time to work on the car.. Here's the map and 3 logs. The rpm gap varies between the logs, that's because I'm trying different BISS screw settings from time to time. Idle is somewhat stable if I open up the screw so much that it idles above 1350rpm. If I set it so it idles around 950, it's fluctuating at first but stabilizes somewhat after a while. If I go lower, it fluctuates all the time. Car is an Evo IV with a Evo VI engine, E85, bigger injectors, fuel pump, 2,75" exhaust, better elbow, better intercooler, ARP rod bolts, etc. The usual. JB9.pclr Log 2019-08-30 8;06;19 pm.llg Log 2019-08-30 8;12;45 pm.llg Log 2019-08-30 8;24;12 pm.llg

Hi all. I just bought an Evo IV GSR -97 with G4+ Plugin in it. The car is supposed to be properly dyno tuned, and it drives fine, but I'm not sure the tuner has set up the idle correctly, or if I might have a hardware issue. Idle is fluctuating +-150rpm, and I've tried pretty much everything with the idle control settings in the ECU now. I can't get it to a point where it's stable, not even in open loop mode. At first, I couldn't get it to go below 980rpm or so at all, so that's when I learned about the base idle screw in the throttle body, and from Mitsubishi/DSM forums it seems like the guys with oem ecu does some kind of base setting of the screw with the ecu idle control disabled, but I can't find a way to disable it in pclink, so I tried disconnecting the connector on the throttle body instead... But even then, I can't really get to a stable idle by adjusting the "BISS" screw. Could this be because the fuel map is badly tuned at idle? Or is it definitely a hardware issue with the throttle body/stepper motor thingy? How do you guys have the Evo 4-6 idle set up? EDIT: I should probably add that I have a spare Evo IV throttle body laying around I could try with (took a better condition BISS screw from it already), but I'd like to avoid and find out it if it's a tuning issue first. Thanks.