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0x33

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Posts posted by 0x33

  1. Just to add to this. 

    Maybe the option to connect to other ECU's/devices should be relagated to a drop down menu option, rather than prompting you when connecting to ECU. Really slows down workflow. 

    Maybe its just coincidence, but since running the latest release it seems like the entire software is running so bloody slow, its infuriating. I'll have to try the steps outlined above to see if I get same behavior, but I've had a crash or two and couple tables bug out on me, as I'm constantly connecting/disconnecting from the ECU.  Normally Link software is bulletproof so this is not great. Please fix!

  2. To me you have a few weird things on the log that I'd look into further. 

    a) If lambda measurement is correct then you are a decent amount leaner than your target coming onto boost. On E85 you may need to richen it up some more to keep things from wanting to misfire. 

    b)

     image.png.c3189196bd6b1e0b4a78a177282165cc.png

    Your dwell time seems to go all over place during said misfire. Maybe a Link engineer can confirm, but I'd imagine this is due to an RPM fluctuation or momentary loss of triggering position thats not being picked up on 40HZ pc logging. I have seen something similar before from a faulty CAM sensor. I doubt you have a crank/cam sensor issue but it does bring me onto the last point

    c)

    image.png.8d18d529889a0d9a2f7f6d51c9b9fb47.png

    For a factory toyota setup these arming thresholds seem a bit optimistic and I've seen misfires caused by these being really out of whack. Unless you have done this already then use the triggerscope to scope each RPM breakpoint and enter in new values for the threshold. Theres a guide on this in the helpguide in the software if you arent sure. 

    Also your VVT has not been setup properly. Might be an idea to set that up and get it configured properly

  3. Not directly, you will need to use turbolamik or CANTCU to control gearbox. From there you can send data, torque requests etc through canbus and use strategies on the Link to manage torque reductions, blips etc. At least thats how I normally do it 

  4. GE Distributors seem to be quite sensitive on G4X issues to trigger issues predominantely around idle, have seen a few so far. Try putting Trigger 1 and Trig 2 filtering to level 4. Has worked for me on a few now. 

    Here are settings I've used sucessfully on a GE distributor that was giving the same trigger scope as you had above. Your trigger offset will be different depending on where you set the distributor. 

    image.png.a7475024b010d5d614593c6c894397e4.png

  5. Or you know, they could just build this feature into the start up settings, wouldnt be that difficult rather than wasting I/O on a fairly basic function. 

    Stop Switch & Antitheft will disable ignition, which is not ideal. You want the motor to turn over with ignition, so if there is fuel in cylinder it will still fire, just injectors wont fire on top of that. 

  6. Transitional loads through various gear will affect fueling like this. You could set up a bunch of adjustment maps based on gear and load if you have enough time but the possible variations and enviornmental factors will take a while to account for, you might find better results dialing in the closed loop fueling control to keep you on target for these small discrepancies a much better use of time. 

  7. JZA80 speed signal from factory goes from the Speed sensor -> Dash -> Odometer -> ECU

    The odometer changes to signal from one type to another before sending to the various ECU's on the car including the engine ECU. 

    If your dash speedo works, then investigate the speed signal wiring between odometer and the Link ECU. 


    Most JZA80 speedos always read incorrectly due to wheel changes etc. So normally when doing Link ECU install I change the wiring for speed signal to:

    Speed Sensor -> Link ECU -> Dash -> Odometer -> Other non engine ECU's. 

    Doing it this way you can calibrate the speed signal incoming to Link to be accurate, then output a calibrated signal to Dash to get speedo accurate whilst keeping the factory ODO reading accurately and other body ECU's happy (Assuming your dash wiring is stock). 

     

    On passengerside footwell plug (RHD)
    image.png.8cd525079465dd37ce039cf94ab54839.png

    Cut Pin 2. 

    Run the plug side of Pin 2 to a spare aux output on Link ECU and set as Speedo Out

    Run the loom side of Pin 2 to DI1 (PinA2) on ECU header and calibrate as GP Speed or Wheel speed input

     

     

    Pull up needs be enabled with factory wiring and with this modified setup above. 

  8. 1 hour ago, mapper said:

    We need many more target lambda tables, like for: 

    • post start 
    • ECT based
    • IAT based
    • Exhaust Temp
    • Throttle Position
    • average load based
    • knock fuel trims (apply target trim instead of enrich, which the CL pulls back) 
    • NOS compensation
    • two separate targets for Multi fuel mode
    • Launch 

    One way I can think of to do it is used 4,5,6D and better some more tables as a target lambda or target lambda trim instead of a fuel trim. However, the ECU should just use the richest target within the calibration, so it doesn't get too rich when several conditions are meet. Like high IAT, ECT and Exhaust Temp, which are usually hit at the same time. Using target modifier for each condition, would end up in extensively rich target lambda. 
     

    +100000000000000000000000

  9. Dude. Look at what you are doing versus what the diagrams show. You have it wired wrong still lol. 

    image.thumb.png.86cc35e2d41bf23fa86134cb2575ad30.png

    I've circled Pin 29 on the orange connector. You have cut Pin 36 which is your reverse light wire. 

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