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evoleo

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  1. So, I think I figured out why I have not not experienced any noticeable changes when playing around with the idle ignition control. My car is an RS, hence no ABS and no wheel speed sensors. I see that DI#4 is set as LF Wheel Speed. Is there any way to use the speedometer sensor in the gearbox as the source for wheel speed? Or do I just have to try out all of the options and see? Will have hands on the car tomorrow. I ran the automatic TPS Setup from ECU controls several times and closed throttle always ends up at 0.67V. Seems this is the common value for Evos, after a bit of searching. Will attempt setting the Min Effective Pulse Width to 0.650, and upload new logs using your map. As above, I think all the changes done with Idle Ignition Control have been without effect due to the wheel speed issue. Drivetrain is basically new on the car, but I will double check CV shafts, although they are low mileage as well. Thanks a lot guys, really appreciate it
  2. Leiden, are you talking about calibrating the actual sensor, not just TPS calibration? Reads 0,67V when off pedal, seems to be a normal value from what others have posted about their Evos. Not sure why Idle Ignition Timing Control is on, I am not the tuner, just the owner of the car. I tried to turn it off, made no difference. The car idles very stable regardless. Here is a log with your map with short pulse adders set, and changes to the idle ignition timing and speed sensor, as suggested. Did not really change anything as far as the experienced bucking coming on/off throttle goes, but here´s the log of the testing on a parking lot: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1AaFhcXceKJeuZMEZOPy04hRg_Lpk3GoA By the way, when dowloading "ID1050x - Link Characterization Tables - 8-24-17.xls" from the provided link to a Windows computer the antivirus detects a trojan, I´ve let ID know by e-mail
  3. Hi guys, thanks for the feedback! Tried to load the map Leiden provided, but no noticeable difference. Also tried to add the the short pulse adders, and adjust the idle ignition settings as instructed, but still no noticeable difference when it comes to the bucking. If the assumption that the car is going to idle as soon as I get off the pedal is correct, could it be the MAP and TP/AP Lockout settings need to be fine tuned? TP/AP lockout is at 1%, while actual TPS off the pedal is 0,6%. I see that the MAP lockout is at 55 kPa, but in the instances where I drive in 1st gear slowly holding 2000 RPM the MAP is 42 kPa, then I get off the gas, and bucking happens and MAP reading drops to 29 kPa when totally off the pedal.
  4. Hi, thanks a lot for replying, really appreciate it Early flight in the morning and it´s midnight here, so I´ll test the idle ignition timing when I am back on Thursday. Standard lambda is installed in the elbow, but no wideband. If faulty it should have given me a CE light in the dash? I did not map myself, so I will have to ask the tuner, and do some investigating myself. Edit: Closed loop lambda is set to off... Is that the culprit? Managed to get a quick drive in using add all in logs. Driving in 1st gear, holding 2000 RPM, releasing throttle pedal, getting back on it around 1000 RPM. A few times like that around the block. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1t-RgozbopC3VBUyW8Ukxjng8BSdP7WII
  5. Bump again, any suggestions? Thanks!
  6. Bump, any suggestions?
  7. Hi, I recently finished, more or less, my project car which is a Mitsubishi Lancer Evo 6 RS2 LHD RalliArt Germany car running Link G4+ PnP which I had dyno tuned. There are one or two issues remaining, which may or may not be related to each other. 1) Car drives fine and pulls good in all degrees of throttle application, say between 5% and 100% throttle. But, when I come completely off the throttle the car bucks about 3 times before settling. Same if I am off throttle and then come back on. This is present in every gear, but less so the higher gear/speed I go, and less so the more RPM and boost I have. The issue shows itself mostly during normal cruising, say 3000 RPM on highway when you may come off throttle completely, or just driving slowly on the parking lot in 2000 RPM and coming off and on the pedal. Idle is smooth, and driving with low throttle is also fairly smooth, it´s really just between foot off throttle and on throttle that the car bucks and really gets upset. 2) If I turn on AC right after a cold start the RPMs start going up and down rhythmically, and the light in the dash dims a bit. Does not seem to be an issue on a warm engine. I had a few cases earlier where the car could idle for a minute or two and completely die if AC was on, and only way to get it to come alive again would be to disconnect and connect the battery (ignition would be dead). I´ve attached a short 3 minute log which consists of a cold start, AC on, let it sit for a little while, AC off, drive around the block in 1st gear only and coming off throttle a few times to upset the car and cause the bucking I described. I tried letting go off the throttle at around 2000 RPM and stepping on the throttle at 1000 RPM. Map is also attached, and car specs are listed below. Log. I come off the throttle at 1:34 mark, and come on again on 1:38 mark. You can clearly see the oscillations in RPM. I repeat this a few times. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Ju_bq65yHYHtwwEPhWdJTJ8MG9N0nvmk Map: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1sfwKny12obN8jJ-UGZlbTIUMUFFXWaQS Accidentally mapped with fuel pressure regulator with no boost cable connected, hence high fuel pump duty cycle. Connected back on, but made no difference as far as the bucking goes. Screenshot of behavior: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1t5s1vbGpmutQdOnJtlzInRW1AmF-yEpD Car specs: Forged 2.0 L Balance shaft delete Standard cams Evo 9 series 80 Turbo with Turbosmart 18 psi actuator Injector dynamics 1050x New iridium plugs COP kit 60 mm intercooler piping Stock recirculating diverter valve setup (tried both OEM and GFB) HKS elbow, DP, decat and cat back New Exedy Hyper Twin SD clutch Factory new RS diff Overhauled transfer box with new CwP, backlash adjusted 60000 km on car and it was butter smooth before a rod went pop and I had to do an engine, and decided to upgrade the engine, clutch and ECU.
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