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Myrotarylife

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  1. interesting. Maybe I should try it first. The car only idles about once a week with some off load revving and then gets thrashed for a weekend a month. might be worth a go before pulling it apart. it may buy me another season yet. Who knows. Thanks for the heads up. also I went from adaptronic to link and I am not regretting the move. Both have plus and negative points but the links depth far outweighs the adaptronic. I was supposed to go to DGRR so many times with my FD but running the shop made it impossible to leave. I was part of the Nova Scotia bunch of rotary heads that make it down each year.
  2. I tell you what is strange Pete. When it does run I’m still pulling -12in/mg. of vacuum which for a heavily ported engine is actually pretty solid numbers. It’s the only thing that’s kept me away from compression checking it previously. When it was fresh built and broken in it was sat around -16in/mg.
  3. Hi Pete, I used my rotary compression tester v5. It was warm after the running of the car. Rear rotor was awesome. All around 100psi. ( races for 4 years!) Front was 73psi on one face and 78 and 82 on the other faces. the whole reason I moved to link was my adaptronic had failed and wasn’t fueling correctly. I do t have an OMP and lubrication is purely based on premixed fuel. So the issue with the ecu caused a lack of lube and hence the wear. good news is it is nothing catastrophic that has failed. A master close out kit will refresh the whole thing and give me hopefully another 4-5 years of racing just like it has Since my last rebuild of it. at least I have plenty of time before next Time attack race season starts.
  4. Hi Folks, It is looking like its a compression issue....Not an ECU issue at all......
  5. Hi All, So I figured out the cranking tables etc and she starts first time every time now and idles fantastically. The issue comes when I try to restart the car. time doesnt matter with this one. It refuses to start. If I wait until the next day I can start it again without issue. Plugs were getting fuel but not flooded by any means. All values look good for sensors etc. I have included a copy of my map that I am running, please can someone take a look if there is anything obvious thats wrong. I have looked at most tables and dont really want to adjust anything because when I do get it started its pretty much perfect. I just compression checked the engine and all faces are very good. Lowest value was one face with 80PSI most were 90-100psi. So mechanically were OK. It must be something in the setup. The car will sometimes try and catch but then instantly dies. AFR is reading high after cranking. I have tried playing with the ECT vs. Injector duty when cranking table to induce more fuel volume but it hasnt helped. Any ideas? Mazda RX7 Charlie Link Base Map Backup.pclr
  6. Just a bit of an update. I pulled a pile of fuel out of the warm up map and she started without issue at all. I then in increments increased each table cell as the ECT increased, effectively mapping the ECT increase in the correction table. If anyone in the future is interested in what values I have used I would be happy to share. Bottom line, it works a treat now and my plugs haven't fouled but like you said Adam, it was start low and then trial and error to get it right. I also managed to map the 0psi rev range and idle. Loving this ECU. Thanks for the input folks.
  7. Thanks Adam, I am going to have a play with this today with a fresh set of plugs and see how I get on.
  8. Hi Brad, Yes, I am adjusting the main Fuel table. When I did get it running and up to temp I adjusted the values in the Main fuel table 1. These values ended up being double the initial map. So if this is the case, because I doubled the fuel table cells I should in theory divide the warm up and crank tables by 50% to balance out and give me the same injection volume I had when I initially got it running on lower Fuel table values.
  9. Hi Brad, so I’m running modelled. I have set the injectors to 1000cc and at 3bar base pressure fuel. I have set the secondaries at a ratio of 1.65 too. Are you saying the algorithm, once the above values are applied, adjusts the warm up and crank values as a ratio so the base values shouldn’t really need touching? if so I’ll do exactly as you said and go back to the base map with the adjustment for my setup inputs and outputs etc and try again. I did however once I got it started previously have to double the injector VE value to achieve perfect idle and AFR values. I assume this is due to the doubling in size of my intake ports. Thanks again for your help. I’ll let you know how it goes.
  10. looking at the initial base map the numbers made sense to start with so I agree they may not have needed adjusting too much with the master fuel table also sat in its original base map values. I have however double the injector VE in the fuel table at idle to achieve an accurate and well controlled AFR. maybe I should try the base map values divided by exactly 50% as I have doubled the injector duty cycle values.
  11. Hello all, I’m trying to ultimately save a huge amount of work in cleaning set after set of spark plugs.... Does anyone have some good table values for the crank and warm up fuel tables? I did manage to get the car started with the factory values but the closed loop lambda setting was what was ultimately keeping it running. now I want to tune the idle and off load cells before hitting the dyno. All that is irrelevant of course if I get one start and then have to change the plugs. mods are: Big street ports intake and exhaust Bosch 1000cc pri 1600cc sec 3bar fuel pressure direct fire AEM Ign1a coils Borg Warner 91/80 turbo thanks in advance guys and gals Charlie.
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