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Everything posted by Pete_89t2

  1. That was a quick update - you guys are on point! One other question though - since I'm still in the process of building this car, I haven't road tested the cruise functions yet; all of my testing so far was limited to static powered up testing with the ECU & PCLink connected. After reading thru the revised documentation notes above, and based on how it's formatted as a list, it would imply that the all analog or all digital input note applies to the brake switch, clutch switch and the speed source, as well as the Cruise On/Enable, and Set/Resume/Cancel switch functions. I hope that's not the case, because I have the brake, clutch and speed sensor wired to digital inputs. Anyway, if I'm correct, more clarification of the documentation may be needed here.
  2. Thanks for helping me sort this out -- it now works after making a few wiring revisions to the OEM Mazda harness needed to connect the main cruise on/off switch to AN6, so all the cruise function switches are now all on an analog input. Just a suggestion for the next update to the PCLink help file/documentation -- add a note in there to highlight the fact that the cruise function switches (i.e., cruise ON/enable, set, resume & cancel) need to be all on an analog input or all on digital inputs, not a mix of both. Since the documentation doesn't explicitly state anywhere that you can't have both analog & digital inputs for these switches, most guys will design their wiring harnesses around their switch gear and specific installation. In my case, that meant using a mix of an analog & digital inputs to minimize the need to alter the OEM factory wiring.
  3. Bummer, I was hoping I wouldn't have to mess with my new wiring harness or the OEM wiring again.
  4. I'm not quite following the highlighted statement above. Are you saying you can't use a mix of DI's and analog inputs to implement all of the cruise functions - it's an either/or proposition? I wired it the way I did based on the available Mazda OEM switch gear, and what I had available as DIs/analog inputs. The "cancel" switch is part of the cruise "set/resume/cancel" switch on the steering wheel; it's a 2 terminal momentary contact device that changes its resistance across the 2 terminals depending on which switch is pressed, so I wired that to the analog input along with "set" & "resume". For the cruise on/enable function, I thought I could use a DI for that as Mazda has a separate momentary switch for that on the dash cluster that outputs +12V when it's depressed. I see now that by ignoring the "On switch voltage" threshold under the analog switch thresholds menu, I inadvertently set my "Cancel" and "Cruise ON" to the same values. If I were to adjust the analog threshold voltage for "Cruise ON" to a value that can't possibly happen on that analog input, say 3.5V, based on its design and how its wired, would it then simply accept the on/off input from DI3 as the "cruise on" switch function as I intended it to? If that won't work, then I think your option #1 would make sense, though it won't be as easy since I'd have to de-pin a few terminals in that cruise switch so it doesn't send +12V power to the analog input.
  5. Ok, I pulled a couple of manual logs, and attached the tune file. Added a time plot view, and made sure "Cruise control status" is logged/displayed. The file "log #1" is after an ignition switch power cycle; note that the DI3 reverts to latching OFF, and it shows what happens as I press the various cruise control switches individually in sequence - cruise on/enable, then the set/resume/cancel. Also tapped the brake & clutch a few times to ensure those inputs are working. The set/resume/cancel switch is on AN6, and its thresholds are programmed based on the voltages measured in testing and they appear to be set correctly -- but something really weird happens whenever I hit "cancel" - the cruise status changes to "Enabled", then to "Off" when you hit cancel a 2nd time, behaving the way the "Cruise ON/Enable" switch should. The file "log #2" is essentially the same procedure as log #1, except that I set the DI3 latch back to its ON state before recording. I'm stumped at this point, but I also noticed that the lockouts won't allow me to set the minimum cruise lockout speed down to 0 MPH for testing purposes, is it possible that this is what's causing the issues? Log #2 - after reseting DI3 Latch to ON.llg Log #1 - after fresh power cycle (DI3 defaulted to latch OFF).llg Baseline Tune -v1 (post rewire - working copy v2).pclr
  6. The car's not running yet, still need to finish fabricating the IC piping, so it will be a while until I can get a log with it running. Would a manually triggered log showing the switch functionality be of any use? It seems to function fine with the settings I have as attached to the 1st post, but for some reason the ECU clears that latch setting on DI3 when the ECU powers down.
  7. I have the "Cruise On" switch set to momentary in that menu as well (ref. screen shot in original post), but unless I also set the latching to ON in DI3, the status of the cruise on / DI3 won't remain active when I release the cruise switch. Is this another one of those things where the order at which you apply the settings and save them to the ECU matters? I've also tried changing the "Cruise On" setting you referenced to "toggle", and it behaves the same way - since the hardware is a normally open, momentary contact switch, when I depress it it goes active, and as long as the DI3 latch is set to ON it will stay active until I press the switch again. But regardless of the way I have the "cruise on" set (momentary or toggle), I lose the DI3 latch setting when I power down; on power up, it defaults back to OFF.
  8. Some background - I recently finished a rewire of my series 6 FD RX7, which is running on a G4+ Fury. Since it has a working DBW throttle body, I'm trying to restore cruise control functionality using the OEM Mazda switch gear and the G4+. Attached is my current tune file for reference, and a screen shot of the "Cruise" tab view I have set up in PCLink, with all the relevant cruise control settings. The problem I'm having is that "Input latch" setting for DI 3, which is used for the "Cruise On" function that you see above won't persist in the ECU after I key off the ignition switch. Since the Mazda OEM "cruise on" switch is a momentary contact type, which sends +12V power to the DI3 input when pressed, I have the ON level set to HIGH, and I need to use the latch function to keep its state ACTIVE after releasing the switch. After saving these settings to the ECU, I tested them and they appear to work as they should (i.e., DI3 goes ACTIVE when I hit the cruise ON switch, and OFF when I hit it a 2nd time), but I discovered that if I shut the ignition off and then turn it back on, I'll see that the latch setting reverts back to its OFF state. All the other settings above persist as they should after a power down/up cycle. Any thoughts on how to fix this, short of replacing the OEM switch gear with a toggle switch? Baseline Tune -v1 (post rewire - working copy v2).pclr
  9. Thanks, I didn't think of using a Zener diode & pull down resistor but that's a neat solution. Though the 4x series diodes should be physically easier to add inline to my wiring harness at this point.
  10. Hi, I've got a wired in G4+ Fury in my FD, and I'm attempting to use DI6 as the "A/C Request" function. Long story short, it's not working as expected but I think I know why - voltage on the DI6 input is a bit higher than it should be when the AC is switched on, and that voltage varies depending on AC blower fan speed. Here's the voltages I measured on DI6, car not running but with a trickle charger connected to the battery: A/C switch & Fan Switch OFF: 12.4V A/C switch OFF, Fan switch set at ANY speed: 12.4V A/C switch ON, Fan speed 1: 1.51V A/C switch ON, Fan speed 2: 2.16V A/C switch ON, Fan speed 3: 3.36V A/C switch ON, Fan speed 4: 3.14V What is the recommended work around for this? A relay would work, but would be a bit more difficult to physically wire, so I was thinking a few diodes in series to drop the voltage input to DI6 would be a better/easier solution. Question is what is the voltage threshold for the DI, and how many series diodes would I need to reliably pull the voltage down enough? Thanks!
  11. Mystery solved - I have an open circuit on the AUX 7 circuit. I tested resistance between AUX 5/6 and 7/8 pairs as suggested; the 5/6 pair read at 47 ohms, and 7/8 pair read infinite. Subsequent continuity testing of the harness between the Link "A" connector and the OMP connector confirmed an open circuit in the AUX 7 line, all the others had continuity. Upon further inspection and testing, I found the break was at my milspec bulkhead connector. Apparently the pin on the plug for AUX 7 wasn't fully locked/seated inside the connector body, and must have been pushed back into the connector body the last time I mated the plug to the bulkhead receptacle, making poor contact. Funny thing is I did a 100% end-to-end bench continuity test of every wire in this harness with the milspec connector mated before putting it in the car and it passed with flying colors. Though I probably had about 3~4 connector mating cycles during the process of installing the new harness into the car after doing the test - Murphy's law strikes again!
  12. Looks like I'm still having problems calibrating this thing. The suggestions for changing the AN4 output to a 0-5V Voltage and turning AUX8 off and then back on to Rotary Oil Pump fixed the visibility issue and the ability to read the voltages so I can continue the calibration process, but I'm still unable to complete the calibration. Here's what it's doing: - Power up, calibration set to OFF - AN4 voltage reads a steady 0.88V. I'm assuming that when initially powered up, the OMP stepper is fully closed or close to fully closed. - Change calibration setting to CLOSED - AN4 voltage dithers a bit (+/- approx. 0.02V) around 0.88V and quickly stabilizes back to 0.88V. I can hear a faint clicking from the pump when I first entered the CLOSED command, coinciding with the voltage dithering, but this lasted for less than a second and the voltage quickly stabilized. Jotted down the 0.88 value for later use. - Change calibration setting to OPEN - Again the AN4 voltage dithered a bit (+/- approx. 0.02V) around 0.88V and then stabilizes back to 0.88V. This time I heard significant clicking from the pump, apparently as it ran from fully closed to fully open and then the clicking stopped - this clicking took maybe 2~3 seconds and then went silent. Was expecting the AN4 voltage here to read somewhere around 4V or so. As far as testing the pump hardware itself, as I mentioned on my 1st post, I tested it by building a test harness so I can electrically connect it to the AEM Infinity ECU in my FC, and test the pump operation using that ECU to drive it. It works fine that way, as I'm able to drive the pump to anywhere I command on the map between 0 - 100% and it tracks just fine. Don't think it matters for these test purposes, but the AEM Infinity can only drive the pump as a bipolar (4 wire) stepper - unipolar operation is not an option with AEM As for wiring the OMP to my Link ECU, I followed the wiring color codes in the Link wiring documentation, and checked it over at least 3 times. Wiring for the stepper & position sensor match color codes correctly. My FD is a US market '93; is it possible Mazda was inconsistent with wiring colors relative to the Link help documentation? For example, if the wiring on the position sensor is wrong, it would explain why I'm seeing essentially a steady voltage while the motor is being driven from full open to closed. Any thoughts on what to try next? UPDATE: Since posting, I borrowed a 2nd FD oil metering pump from a friend to swap in and test. Wired it into my FD exactly the same and basically had the same results as above. The AN4 voltage was slightly different, about 1.0V, but the behavior was the same as described above. At this time I also tested to ensure I had +12V at the OMP red & red/white wires when powered up, and that there was the +5VDC between the blue & black wires of the position sensor. Both checked out good. At this point I think either the wiring documentation is wrong, or maybe my ECU has some kind of issues with at least one of the AUX 5 thru 8 outputs. If the later is the case, what are my options for getting this ECU repaired?
  13. My current map is attached, the stepper motor type doesn't show in that menu for me. BTW, don't know if this matters or not, but after my rewire job was complete, I did as many of the necessary changes to my tune file as I could "offline" (i.e., edited on my laptop, not connected to my ECU). Not sure now if that stepper motor type option was in there or not when I was editing to creat the attached file, maybe it was. But then after I loaded the attached map onto the ECU, that option disappeared. Temporarily setting the AN voltage channel to "Voltage 0-5V" sounds easy enough, I'll give that a go. Baseline Tune -v1 (post rewire - working copy v2).pclr
  14. Great, thanks for the explanation!
  15. I'm having a bit of difficulty calibrating the oil metering pump in my series 6 FD after rewiring the harness to add OMP support with my Link G4+ Fury. To rule out hardware problems with the OMP itself, I built a test harness to temporarily wire it up to my series 5 FC, which is managed by an AEM Infinity, and result was the pump tracks as its commanded by the AEM Infinity from 0 - 100% and anywhere in between with zero issues, so I'm confident the pump is good. I've think I've been following the calibration procedure in the PCLink help file to the letter, but there have been some deviations with regards to those directions. To best describe the problems I'm having, please refer to the attached PDF extract from the PCLink help file. I'll refer back to the step # in the attached to describe the problem. Steps #1 through 3 - Had no issues there, used AN4 as the position sensor. Step #4 - Apparently once you set the AUX 8 output to "Rotary Oil Pump" in step #3, the option to select "Set Stepper Type to Unipolar (6 Terminal)" as stated in Step #4 no longer exists. Is this just a documentation glitch? I assumed it was and pressed on to the next step. The pump is wired exactly as described in the help file though. Step #6-1: After following step #5 to configure AN4 as my "Rotary OilP Posn" sensor, I found that I couldn't see any runtime voltage values for AN4 during step #6-1 and the subsequent steps in the calibration procedure. Instead, AN4 runtime values would indicate the %, so I couldn't "write down voltages for later use" after doing the steps to run the pump to full open & closed, but I did jot down the percentages provided. They were going in the right direction, i.e., smaller % numbers at fully closed than fully open, but they were no where near 0% and 100% At this point, I'm stumped on how I can complete this procedure without being able to view the runtime voltages? What am I missing here? Thanks! Rotary Oil Pump Calibration Procedure Help File.pdf
  16. Hi, I've added an oil temperature sensor to my setup with a wired in Link G4+ Fury. The sensor is an AEM part # 30-2012, and I have the AEM's calibration data (ohms vs. temperature, C*). Since it appears none of the built in calibrations from the drop down menus match this sensor, I'm using the Cal 10 table to enter AEM's calibration data for the sensor. Problem is at the lowest temperature point (-40*C), the resistance is 402,392 ohms (~402.4 K-Ohms), and I can't figure out how to get PCLink to accept a resistance value in the cal table 10 that is greater than 65K ohms. When I try, PCLink gives me a message saying the # must be less than 65K or something to that effect. Do any of the other user entry cal tables allow greater than 65K ohm entries, or do they all have teh same limitations? As a temporary work around, I just built my curve starting at the -10*C point, which translates to approx. 64K ohms on the sensor cal. The sensor readings seem to be spot on, but I assume it won't be too accurate at any temps below -10*C, though I don't expect to ever drive this car when it's that cold. But it would be nice to be able to calibrate across the full range of the sensor if possible.
  17. I'm building out a new wiring harness for an FD RX7 project that is running a G4+ Fury that has a Continental flex fuel sensor. According to the Link help file wiring diagram for this brand of sensor, it says to connect the sensor's ground pin to the "Ground Out" (green wire on the "A" connector if I were to use the Link wiring loom). The previous owner simply grounded this sensor pin to the engine block. Does it make a difference? The sensor seemed to be working fine in that configuration, as I was seeing good data from the sensor in the logs. Thanks, Pete
  18. Related to this topic, is it possible in PCLink to combine multiple log files into one very large log file so that the mixture map feature would have more data points to work with? Basically the idea is to have the PC collecting data every time I'm on the road with it, and then use the conditional & transient filters in the mixture map tool to effectively utilize it.
  19. I didn't even consider "fan 2" because that fan is not actually being controlled by the ECU - another one of the previous owner's wiring faux pas I have to fix when I rewire the car. He actually had the 2nd FD fan wired to come on constantly as soon as the ignition switches on, and the main FD fan is controlled as "fan 1" by the link. So for now, while temps are still cool here, I disconnected the 2nd FD fan (so the car can actually reach operating temps), and have been relying on the main fan, controlled by the "fan 1" settings. Anyway, I see what you're referring to - I went ahead and changed "fan 2" to come on at 212*F, and changed the "fan step" in the idle settings from 3.0 to 0.5. Idle is behaving reasonable well with those settings. Attached is the current tune file and a log from cold start, warm up & some driving and idling around town thru a few fan cycles. About 13 minutes worth. Log 2020-03-21 10;32;44 am.llg Baseline Tune - with Link Updates v006.pclr
  20. I think I get the gist of how the Mixture Map tool can be used to help tune your fuel table with log data, but I'd like to confirm a few things to hopefully make my road tuning an efficient & productive process. Goal is to get as much of the N/A and low boost parts of the map cleaned up before I invest in some dyno time to do the rest. Attached is a screen shot of my current mixture map properties settings. As I understand it, if I set this up right, it will filter the raw data so that only the useful bits of data go into the suggested fuel table corrections. Generally, I assume more samples is always better, so I set the minimum at 100 -- can I get good results with less? I know I'd cover more of the map with less drive time that way, but I am concerned about the quality of small sample size calculations. As you can see, I'm setting a few conditional filters that will only accept data that is: (a) Above operating temperature, so that all warm-up enrichment's are zero at these temps and above; (b) RPMs at idle & above; (c) Overrun/Fuel cut is not active (0 or off state) as that would skew actual vs. target lambda. I also have the closed loop lambda (CLL) turned off for the road tuning. Are there any other conditional filters that might be better options here? I also set a transient filter for Accel Fuel < 0.1 units/sec. If I'm understanding the transient filters correctly, it should only accept data when the Accel Fuel added is between 0 and 10%. My understanding is the mixture map tuning works best when the cells are as close to steady state conditions as possible, correct? Is there a better way to filter out accel fuel trim transients? For the "% of zone", I'm not sure I really understand what that means, but from experimenting, it seems that the lower the % value is, the fewer cells get filled in, given the same # of samples and other conditional & transient filters - is there a good trade-off number here, and what does it really represent? I'm currently using 50% Thanks!
  21. Ok, thanks! I reduced the deadband to 25RPM and reduced the idle base position to 0.7% (from 1.0) for ECTs above 194*F and did some testing/logging today. I don't think the ECTs made it much past 190*F on this drive, so it's possible the idle base position tweaks didn't come into play. Attached is the current PCL file, and here's a link to my Google Drive where you should be able to get the log file: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/14YW4Yrme85dJZxLmVlBplBXHdVE6ezdI?usp=sharing There's about 23 minutes worth of data there, from cold start through warm-up cycle, and driving around town with several stops idling at traffic lights Baseline Tune - with Link Updates v005.pclr
  22. Thanks Simon, I ended up figuring that out for myself just by dabbling with the firmware update menus in PCLink. I updated my FW to the most recent version that my copy of PCLink had on file - there were 2 FW versions in the firmware directory, so I updated to the one with the highest revision # and latest file date. On the FW topic, how frequently do you guys release FW updates? I don't have my version # handy, but since it came with my copy of PCLink that I downloaded in November 2019, it can't be any newer than that - have any FW updates been released since then? You nailed it Adam, the timing & idle tweaks you provided pretty much solved my idle problems! I applied all of the tweaks you provided as-is and reverted the fuel table back to my original base map to correct those bad cells and did some testing. Starting up from cold (ambient temps ~50*F), it fired up easily, and idled almost spot vs. ECTs on to the base idle target table as it warmed up. Once at operating temp (ECTs > 176*F), the idle speed overshot the target slightly by about 50~100 RPMs with a very small hint of hunting around its attempted idle target. Much more stable than before though. First thing I think I should try to refine it further is to just reduce the base idle position table values from the current 1.0% down to perhaps 0.5% in the cells 176F and higher. That should get me closer to the target idle when warmed up, and if the current PIDs are good enough enough, result in less hunting around the idle target.
  23. Thanks Adam, I'll give these suggestions a go. Probably a dumb question, but is there a download link somewhere on this site for the current G4+ firmware? Can't seem to find it anywhere. On the fuel table, I think I misused the VE Mixture "correct fuel table" feature - accepting a bunch of changes to the fuel table prematurely, based on too few samples/bad data. Easy fix there, just go back to my original baseline. Regarding timing at idle, I've had good results in the past setting the idle region around 12~15* BTDC on similar 13BT / 13BREW builds; that additional advance typically results in a smooth idle and a nice throttle tip-in. Basically it perks up the throttle response a bit as you drive off normally in NA mode. But this is the 1st time I'm trying it with a non-stock TB, which I suspect could be another problem here. The stock mechanical TB has mechanically linked primary & secondary throttle plates; the secondaries don't crack open until the primary opens a bit, and even then there's a double throttle mechanism that which blocks the secondaries until the coolant reaches operating temp. Air delivery with a single 90mm DBW throttle is a very different beast, unknown territory for me.
  24. I'm having difficulty getting my E-throttle equipped FD to achieve a stable idle at about 1K RPMs when warmed up - the idle will hunt wildly above & below that mark by a few hundred RPMs, and sometimes stall with no load on the motor. The car starts up fine, settles into its higher cold idle target, but as the coolant temps start approaching about 80*F and go hotter, the idle starts hunting - which just gets worse as the idle target RPM drops and temp increases. Oddly enough, the car runs OK when it's under load - if I drive off, AFRs stay reasonably close to the cell targets, though the VE table still needs a bit of tuning. I attached the car's current tune, hopefully someone can take a look and point me in the right direction on how to fix this? Would have attached a log, but my logs were too large to attach here. Anyway, here's some pertinent background info on the car's setup as I got it from the previous owner: (1) New Mazda 13BREW short block (no compression issues); (2) Single BW S364.5 SXE turbo, 1.0 AR turbine housing; (3) Fuel injectors - Bosch 1000cc EV14 primaries, Bosch 2200cc EV14 secondaries; (4) Rest of the fuel system is a Fuel Lab pressure regulator, and there's a fuel pressure sensor wired to the Link. Fuel pump is still the stock FD pump driven by new relay/wiring (simple on/off control); (5) DBW throttle is a 90mm GM e-throttle body with a custom fabricated adapter to mate with the intake manifold, which is a Cosmo 13B-RE upper & lower intake manifold. Thanks! Baseline Tune 0947-3-15-2020 v002.pclr
  25. Thanks Adam, that's a great explanation and it answers what would have been my next question regarding dwell settings. Besides the fact that these coils don't need more than 3mS dwell in most situations, your math confirms the previous owner had his dwell settings set WAY too long, and backwards -- 7.0mS at the RPMs above 6K which clearly would not end well! Luckily for me the motor is new and still being broken in at under 4500 RPMs, so no fried coils or a blown motor. I've updated the old dwell table per the attached file. For voltages above 13V, and RPMs below the 8K redline, I have dwell set at 3.0mS. I reduced that to 2.6~2.5mS for voltages above 14V and RPMs > 8K to protect the coil from overheating. At voltages 12V or less, and RPMs under 1K, I bumped up the dwell to 4.0mS. Thought there was to get a hotter spark during cranking/start up, and to help promote a smooth idle when the electrical loads on the system are high (e.g., lights, AC & e-fans operating) Ignition Dwell Control (ms).lte
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