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Everything posted by Pete_89t2

  1. ^ I might be able to do what you suggest. below is the schematic for the factory cruise control switch. What's not shown below is there is another "cruise main" switch, which is a latching switch that routes power to the cruise control unit. I'd assume I'd route the "cruise main" switch to a digital input, to engage the cruise functions. Similarly, brake and clutch switches would be digital inputs as well to cancel cruise on demand. As you can see, there are three control switches on the steering wheel assembly for the "set/coast", "resume/accel" and "cancel" functions. The problem might be that all of these are momentary contact switches - so if connected to a spare analog input (with a pull-up resistor wired in since this is a 2-wire switch assembly), the G4+ would see the max voltage normally (~+5VDC) when no switches are being pressed, and depending on what those resistor values are, the G4+ would see different voltages while the driver is pressing on any of those 3 switches momentarily. Could the G4+ be programmed to respond to momentary changes in an analog voltage in this manner?
  2. Thanks Adam & Neil, I'm glad to hear my lack of an unlock code won't be an issue. Car is currently running, so the ECU has been unlocked before. Regarding the cruise control, I'm pretty sure the FD has the a VSS sensor in the gearbox for speed measurement. Although the factory cruise control was chucked when the previous owner went DBW, the factory cruise control switch gear is all still there - will need to delve further into the factory wiring diagrams to figure out how Mazda used the switch hardware to implement "cruise on", "cruise set/resume & cancel" functions.
  3. Greetings, I recently purchased a modified single turbo '93 RX7 that is running a wired-in Link G4+ Fury ECU. I'm a newbie with the Link G4+ platform, but I have experience working with and tuning Mazda rotaries on other ECU platforms, such as the AEM Infinity. To make a long story short, I'm going to need to rewire this car to incorporate some features that the prior owner didn't bother with. After doing some research on the G4+ Fury ECU, it appears that what I want to accomplish is all feasible, but I have a few newbie questions that I'm seeking guidance from the more experienced experts out here. I attached my Link Installer I/O table for folks to review against the features I'm looking to add and questions below. As mentioned above, this FD is a modified single turbo setup. The motor is basically a stock FD 13B-REW, which is running a Cosmo (13B-RE) intake manifold with a pretty slick drive-by-wire throttle conversion using a GM 90mm DBW TB that is currently being managed by the G4+ Fury. I'd like to retain the DBW functionality in my build. Here's a list of features that I want to add: 1. Add back the FD factory electronic Oil Metering Pump (which I will supply 2-stroke oil to via a gravity feed tank and Rotary Aviation MOP adapter), and manage it with the G4+ Fury 2. Replace the factory VR Crank Angle Sensor with Full Function Engineering's Hall Trigger kit. Plan is to use the 36-1 wheel; sensor FFE uses is a Honeywell 3-wire Hall device that requires +12VDC, Ground and has a single output signal wire. Question - FFE advises in their instructions to power their sensor up with +12VDC, which on my other cars/ECUs I wired to the +12VDC power out from the main ECU relay. For the Link G+ Fury, should I be wiring this to the +8VDC output instead? If it's wired to the +12VDC output from the main relay, would that damage the Link ECU? 3. Question - Previous owner didn't provide me with any serial # or unlock codes for the Link ECU. Now I know the warranty is void since I'm not the original owner, but will I need that info after I rewire the car/ECU or for future firmware updates and the like? If the previous owner can't find that information for me, how would I acquire it if needed? 4. Another question - Since the car is running a DBW throttle, would it be possible for the G4+ Fury to manage a cruise control feature? If so, what I/O would be needed to be wired in to support it? I'm assuming it will need digital inputs for vehicle speed (tap the factory speed sensor?), brake, clutch & neutral switches, factory cruise control switches for "cruise on", "set speed" and "cancel" as a minimum. Thoughts? Is this just a stupid idea? Thanks, Pete Link Installer IO Table.pdf
  4. Interesting, the reason I mentioned the sticky side seals and Seafoam treatment is I have a similar weak compression issue on my FC that appears to be seasonally tied to my car's usage. I get to a track day maybe once a year if I'm lucky, and my FC gets some spirited use on the twisty roads when the weather is nice but it's basically street driven much of the time from about March - Dec (or whenever the roads aren't salted and the weather is decent). I give it an annual flogging at Deals Gap when I do my annual pilgrimage to Deals Gap Rotary Rally in April/May and rack up around 1700 miles over that week. I have the same RCT5 compression tester you have, and I discovered that if my car is consistently driven frequently & hard, I get better compression figures. And when the car comes out of winter hibernation, my front rotor is marginally weak on one chamber. Eg, my normal "good" readings are ~118's on the rear, and ~108's on the front, all faces. I attribute the "normal" front to rear difference to the fact that I built up the front rotor first, so I probably took off a little too much material when I was setting side seal clearance. The post-hibernation readings are typically 105's rear (all faces), and mid-90's front, but with one chamber in the low 80's. When that happens, I'll add 2 cans of Seafoam to an almost empty tank of gas and take a bunch of full throttle rips to redline in 3rd/4th gear, and then retest the compression, which will magically bounces back to the "good" readings. I built my FC motor 2 years ago, it's a 13BT, but a bit of a mutt - started with all new parts, S4 housings, and S5 irons & rotating assembly. Put a big street port on it with Pineapple racing intake & exhaust templates. I'm running the S5 OMP with the RA OMP adapter so it's apex seals only see pre-mix, which is gravity fed from a separate tank; engine management (and OMP control) is with an AEM Infinity ECU. Reason I'm on this forum is I just picked up an FD that is running a Link G+ Fury with a single turbo. Trying to climb the learning curve with the Link, which seems much easier that my AEM Infinity! Previous owner chucked the OMP and is running a DBW setup on it - I'm going to have to rewire it all so I can get the OMP back and plan to set it up just like my FC
  5. Sorry to hear it's a compression issue - I assume you tested with a rotary specific compression tester and did the test with the engine hot and at wide open throttle? What were the compression #'s? If just one chamber is reading low, it's probably just a sticky side seal - you can often free those up with Seafoam treatment (or equiv. solvent). Might want to give that a try before tearing it down for a rebuild.
  6. Hi, I just purchased a '93 RX7 that is running a Link G4+ Fury wired in ECU. Since I'm going to need to modify & rebuild the wiring harness to add some features that the prior owner didn't use, I was wondering if anyone can point me to the correct industry part # for just the replacement terminal pins used in the AMP super seal A & B connectors used on my Link Fury? If these are industry standard terminals, I could probably get them from Mouser, Newark or one of the other big online electronics parts suppliers. Cheers, Pete
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