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2.0L_turbo
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Posts posted by 2.0L_turbo
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5 minutes ago, jdniss said:
You've got a Gear based Wastegate trim basically activated permanently because either Gear detection isn't setup correctly or isn't working.
Fairly certain as soon as the Boost Control activates it has 50% WG duty ripped out of it due to the Gear Trim
interesting I will have to look into this I never set up the boost control my tuner did. The car is Auto if that makes a difference and I do not have a way to tell the ecu what gear its in.
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2 hours ago, jdniss said:
those two google drive files are restricted
my bad forgot to make them non restricted, here are the new links.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kl8kD6ZtBA7KIsU-hdugPkKVhQTzo9aj/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A49E_eHuK_I1U4oVQY9NxRqRjZI8Q2S_/view?usp=sharing
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ok so did a smoke test, only place it leaked was out of the dipstick.
here are the map and log
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A49E_eHuK_I1U4oVQY9NxRqRjZI8Q2S_/view?usp=drive_link
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1U34Yz4BiSQHqshrE0uR9CbcIYG6DR5FA/view?usp=drive_link
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Decided to build a smoke tester and see if theres leaks I just cant see or hear. Should have everything by tomorrow.
On 4/9/2024 at 8:22 PM, jdniss said:Does it spool any faster if you disconnect the electronic boost solenoid from the system entirely..?
ie: Run solely off wastegate spring pressure - assuming the boost solenoid is configured/plumbed incorrectly and exacerbating the lazy boost curve.Can you post the map and a log file?
There's no exhaust restriction? Cat converter blown out? Cam timing off? MAC valve faulty? Accidentally left a rag in the intake piping..?
Definitely no restrictions in the exhaust we dont require cats where I am from and that was removed a long long time ago, mechanical timing is dead on I just added cams a 2 weeks ago and re did timing. Mac valve tests out fine, and all pipes are clear .
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7 hours ago, k4nnon said:
Sounds like it’s set up properly, have you ever had the wastegate off? Is there any chance the fire ring is missing? Iv seen that happen quite often either by people having the gate off and losing or forgetting to put it back in, or if someone puts the car together poorly to sell and then the next owner just has no idea. Maybe just verify that the fire ring is there also.
I was the one to put it on the car the fire ring is definitely there, I just had it off the other day when changing my alternator belt. I had the same thought that I forgot to put it on too.
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9 hours ago, k4nnon said:
What wastegate are you using? If it is a Tial type or a type that can have boost pressure supplied to both top and bottom of the gate,, make sure all unused ports are blocked or plugged. If its a MAC style solenoid it should b numbered 1, 2, 3, and usual simplistic setup is 3 to compressor, 2 to wastegate, and 1 is vented or recirculated. Also standard setup on the gate would be to use single port on the bottom and vent the cap. Never had an issue with this set upon evos or 4g63 engines at power levels stock to 700+. Hope that helps.
The gate im using is a real Tial v44, the way its hooked up is left port of the solenoid going to the bottom port of the gate, The center port going to the turbo compressor cover, and the right port of the solenoid being vented through the brass filter, and the top port of the gate is vented. So by reading what your saying mine is set up the same.
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I am using a real mac valve, same as the link one just not branded as link. And I can hear my wastegate open when it hits spring pressure so I know the gate is operating normally just super lazy response.
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Hey everyone, I am having an issue with my turbo coming on super lazy and I am trying to figure out what I need to do to get it to come on earlier. The turbo in question is a billet Holset HX40/35 6060 hybrid with a divided 12cm2 exhaust housing on a 2.0L 4G63 built bottom end and a set of comp cams with all supporting mods. I am beginning to think maybe the way I have routed my EBCS may be part of the cause. My tuner asked me to route it a different way then how the help file suggests with the left port of the solenoid going to the bottom port, The center port going to the turbo compressor cover, and the right port being vented through the brass filter.
Are there advantages to doing it the way he is asking, or should it be set up like the help file. I have boost leak tested and not found anything, the compression on the motor is 175 across the board +- 2 psi, and I'm only building 17 psi by 5600 rpm when lots of guys are saying that with extremely similar set ups they make 25+psi at 4500rpm so I am at a loss as to why mine is so lazy.
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Found my vac line to the map sensor popped off so it should be good now and tightned the zip tie that was holding it on a bit more we will see if this helps any. If not I will swith to a different map sensor that has a barb fitting
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Actually figured it out gotta use Google drive now to upload stuff, here is the link to the files for map and log it is short due to the car basically immediately fouling the plugs right after I did mu first two little pulls.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/12HgOwvp1F6cAWqLhqfiHv6Xwt4GYer_7?usp=drive_link
EDIT: I just noticed in the log I lost readings to my map sensor around 6 minutes into the drive right after the first initial pull so I either have a major boost leak, or dead sensor? am I on the right track?
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hey guys having an issue where my car keeps fouling plugs, so bad to the point where I now need to do an oil change cause I smell gas in my oil. my tuner and I are still just trying to get a good base map on the car before we go and put it on the dyno but this is now the 3rd set of plugs to foul and it happens quick within 1-2 light pulls.
some information about the car, its a 1991 Eagle talon, with a built bottom end with Manley I beam turbo tuff forged rods, Wiseco 9.0:1 compression pistons, cop conversion using R35 coils, built auto trans being controlled by a separate aftermarket TCU, Holset HX35/40 hybrid turbo with a billet wheel and 12cm2 exhaust housing running speed density, large fmic, 1000cc injectors, aem 340lph fuel pump, radium fpr set to 43.5 psi base pressure, big tubular exhaust manifold, I think that should be all the important bits. how can I upload a log and tune file it says they exceed the allowed size?
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Can confirm I have had the same issue, at times even needing to close tables and re open them to get it to show properly.
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19 hours ago, Adamw said:
They are not threaded holes, they are/were plan drilled/milled through holes with a smooth internal diameter of 5.6mm, designed for screws to go through. So it sounds like you have made your own threads by winding a larger bolt into the hole. As long as you only gave them 3 uga duga's each you should be good
dude just no, on MY ecu it has 3 holes half of the hole is just a smooth machined normal hole on the top side of the ecu, but if you flip the ecu to the bottom it has threads that were there before I put my bolts into it and is even anodized or what ever coating that is put on the ecu when they ship out. meaning I didnt just make threads as that would show clean metal. pic incoming
you can clearly see threads not a hole, and these were there right out of the box which is why the question was asked in the first place. why they didnt use a metric thread pitch I have no idea but I found what I needed so figured I would share to help others.
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For those wondering the actual size of the threaded portion for the 3 bolts on the bottom of the ecu, its 1/4-28 bolt not sure why everyone is saying m5 unless thats literally to put the bolt all the way through but thats not what I was personally wanting to do.
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hey guys I am just curious what size of bolts is used for the 3 holes on the bottom of the ecu? online I see listings saying its m5 but a 10mm socket bolt is typically 6mm x 1.0mm thread pitch yet these are too small and almost fall right through. Just want to get this guy mounted up tomorrow and need to know what to get thanks!
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Hey everyone I am in the middle of planning out wire sizes for a harness I will be building using autosport connectors. So far I have decided on all of the sensors and equipment I would like in the car and now I am working on a list of the wire size that I will be using. Mainly I am stuck on what size of wire to use the +14v going to the ECU, and the appropriate wire size for the coil packs which will be r35 gtr coils. And the last thing I wouldn't ming help with is how do you go about wiring the coils power wire correctly I tried looking in the help files but I could not find these coils. I am assuming that the wire would get ran to a relay controlled by key on power.
Here is the chart I have so far also coils 1-4 is the signal wire not power and ground.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PguwJ-YasTMU0ul-iZeCJ0Iu8eBLsti8/view?usp=drivesdk
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I am also using the ebay fans and yes they are a brushed fan. So far my only issue with this set up is my turbo manifold is melting one of the fans so I need to make a heat shield for the manifold other then that it's working great.
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50 minutes ago, Adamw said:
You can confirm the DC on the output in the runtimes screen.
Also I just looked at our evo notes and the stock ecu uses 125Hz for that module, so might pay to bump that up in case it is not happy. But if it works in test mode it should be no different in run mode.
Well not sure what fixed it but I set it to 125hz and then unplugged the battery for a few mins and now it's working great thanks everyone!
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24 minutes ago, Adamw said:
Sounds like it is working then. In PWM test mode the table has no effect, it sends a constant 50%DC.
Yeah but then when I stop the test and go to the table I can have it set at 0 and fans run full power, and if I set it to 100 the fans still run at full power so it seems like something is over riding the table and causing the fans to stay on at full speed all the time regardless of how the table itself is set up.
Another thing I just noticed when the engine is running aux 2 says inactive
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Ok so update,
If I set gp pwm output to none the fan stays on, if I turn the test on the fan stops, and if I set test to pwm fans turn on but are at a low speed. Also tried editing the table in pwm test and no change
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7 hours ago, Adamw said:
Yeah I dont see anything wrong with the ecu set up. Sure you are connected to the correct ecu pin? What happens if you set aux 2 test to on? And also try GP PWM1 output set to none.
It is definitely connected to the correct pin on the ECU, because if I change it from low to high on the active state I believe, the fan shuts off.
I will try the rest of these on my lunch break in a few hours and get back to ya. Thanks for the help.
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7 minutes ago, Adamw said:
If you are holding the signal wire on ground the fan should be off, is that what happens?
just went out and re tested yes it shuts off not turns on, I got it mixed up.
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Hey everyone bringing this back because I am having some issues getting this to work, I am sure it is either something I have enabled in the software or my wiring but I am not sure which it is.
so I have it wired exactly like the picture above shows and on the big plug I have added a relay on the power wire that is wired as such.
30= battery+
87= power to fan module
86= ignition switched power
85= ground at same point as controller ground.
this is PCLX file that has how I set it up in the ecu, ignore the table as I was testing to see if I could get it to turn on and off but had no luck and the fan just stays constantly on. If I remove the aux 2 wire from the ecu and touch it to a chassis ground the fan does modulate based on how fast I tap and if I hold it does stay on constantly.
as always, any help with this would be greatly appreciated!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/153rZjQwcIcENqxHGrz4Y576L79mMaKua/view?usp=sharing
Electronic Boost Control Routing
in Engine Tuning
Posted
The IAT is likely correct I live in Canada and at the time of taking this log it was about -15 deg C outside and the car has a rather large FMIC.
I will deffinitely be asking my tuner about the Boost by gear map, there is a controller I can get that could tell the ECU what gear I am in, but I have yet to get it. currently the auto trans is controlled by a separate aftermarket TCU called a Forcedfour Smart 100.1, it can do a ton of really cool features but natively wont tell the ecu what gear I am in.