2.0L_turbo

Glad I could help man mine definitely had me running around till I thought to try a pitch gauge and realized it wasnt metric lol

dude just no, on MY ecu it has 3 holes half of the hole is just a smooth machined normal hole on the top side of the ecu, but if you flip the ecu to the bottom it has threads that were there before I put my bolts into it and is even anodized or what ever coating that is put on the ecu when they ship out. meaning I didnt just make threads as that would show clean metal.  pic incoming 
 
 
you can clearly see threads not a hole, and these were there right out of the box which is why the question was asked in the first place. why they didnt use a metric thread pitch I have no idea but I found what I needed so figured I would share to help others.

My 
Mine is the same, was doing my head in trying to figure out what thread it was meant to be

Yep it’s been in there a while now.  There is a set up guide and plumbing diagram in the help file.  

easy way to tell if your coils are smart or dumb, pull of the connector to the coil if it has 2 wires it is a dumb coil. If it has 3 or more wires it is a smart coil.

well the mystery issue has finally been solved it was in fact much to high of a master fuel level, the master fuel was set at 17 as that is where the car liked to start when it had the bad o2 sensor in the car. However after changing the sensor the car was now able to start with only changing the master fuel setting back down to 8. Now finally the car is responding to changes in the fuel map as it should and we have already taken the car around and began tuning its drivability but only under no heavy load, I am saving that for my tuner to handle I just need it drivable to get it to him safely. 
 
A massive thank you to everyone who has helped me on this, I love this community here and will always be a link ecu supporter and fan. I even managed to talk my buddy into getting a link for his 1990 eagle talon and we cannot wait to start getting that all set up!

Ok I will move the sensor on Friday and try again
 

Yep looks correct.  I would just change the error high to 5.00 as I suspect during overrun fuel cut etc it will go above 4V.  

You have got Lambda 1 calibration set to Linear Cal 1, but Linear cal 1 is not set up - it has no units and zeros for the output values.

Quicktune is really designed for use on the dyno where you can hold the engine relatively steady in a single cell.  Cell tolerance is how close you need to be to the center of the cell before the ecu makes adjustments.  A smaller tolerance means you need to be closer to the center.  50% means you need to be at least within halfway between the center of the cell and the edge of the cell.  You might be better using the mixture map or long term fuel trim to tune fuel from logs.  Generally a bit of both, you need the idle close enough so that it is drivable, but the bulk of the idle tuning would be done after you have the fuel and ign good.  You would generally have all the cells that it bounces around between at idle with the same value in them.  Highlight the whole lot and adjust them together.   For you to be able to tune fuel you would need the correct amount of air entering the engine to achieve the idle speed you want.  So ISC would generally have to be working to achieve that.  
 

Note in G4X you can invert the logic on the PWM outputs using the "Active state" setting.  So rather than work backwards like you had to in G4+, you could make it more intuitive with 0% being fan off and 100% being full speed.  

Do a PC log, it records everything.  

this is a diagram for how to hook up the ebc and yes for your needs a 3 port is more then enough. Myself personally if the boost pressure is only as low as 15psi I would be just fining a spring combo that hits your desired pressure but that's my personal preference. 
here is a diagram showing how to hook up a 3 port EBC. 

With ign off if you measure between the sensor ground pin and battery negative with an ohm meter you should see near 0ohm.  
 

yep

What I often do is input the values you have, then change the deadtime table to graphic view (K key)  then adjust the in between values using arrow keys until you have a visually nice curve through the known points.

Yes, the ECU hold power aux output will be set to active state = low.  This means it grounds pin 63&66 when it wants to keep the ecu powered up after ign is switched off.. 

Linear cal is what you want.  Yes ground to the head is a good option.  

Connect the AEM white wire to any spare AN Volt.  Connect the AEM black wire to the engine block.  

Yes it will