Jump to content

dustinkhen

Members
  • Posts

    5
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by dustinkhen

  1. Interesting on the Supra pump losing fuel pressure. I’ll keep that in mind now. I guess I should find some AN fittings and AN lines to fit my afpr to see if I get the same fuel pressure drop. I do like the function of the factory variable voltage to the pump, I just don’t have that option anymore.
  2. Wow I guess today was the right time to come back to my old thread. So I have found the issue to the voltage drop to the ecu finally. First I’ll make a reply, solution will be at the end. KORacing, I was able to test out and even replace (with new wires and pins), the +B & +B1. Same result. There was the voltage drop to those 2 pins and the BATT pin. The switched 12V you’re referring to is the IE2 connected / circuit, I’ve gone ahead and make another new line for that as well, and also having part of it splice off to power the IGN relay. Same result. For the less than ideal idea that you have had, I also thought about doing that too but I was not comfortable with putting a bandaid to mask / hide the issue. Your last question voltage at the injector and ign coils with key on was battery voltage so ~12.6V Solution! The Supra fuel pump that I’ve had for about 5 years now is known to draw more amperage and requires thicker wires to support the pump. Factory fuel pump circuit doesn’t do enough justice. My Supra fuel pump is now being powered straight from the battery via a relay. 10awg to positive and ground to power the pump. Used factory fuel pump circuit to switch the fuel pump on. Now I am getting 13.7V at idle! This whole time it was my fuel pump causing my voltage drop. My current engine now from the caldina st246 should be even happier now that it has proper voltage to the ecu whether it’s on the factory or TST205 / MR2 Link V3 ecu! KO I know you know about the fuel pump mod for the Supra pump. I actually should’ve had done this mod 5 years ago when I first got my jdm gen2 swapped in.
  3. Welcome back to my own thread. So I've already tested and tried a new power circuit that I've built to power the ecu and i still get the same results. battery > AM2 7.5 fuse > fuse box - EFI 15A fuse (Measured 13.5) > Split 2 way: 1) BATT pin on ecu / Pin 60 on Link Pnp (Measured ~13.5V) 2)EFI Relay > Split 2 way: 1) Circuit opening relay to power fuel pump + giving ECU its power source (Measured ~12.7V - ~12.9V average) 2) Into separate connector to power up EBC, TVIS, IACV/ISC Valve, then lastly ending at the +B pin diagnostic port. Every power source in the car with engine on: Battery ~14V Alternator ~14V Tried out spare EFI & Circuit opening relay with same results. Bypass fuel pump relay (Fuel pump circuit powered by Circuit Opening Relay): Measured about ~12.7V to ecu Built brand new power source circuit and still the same results. I'm at a lost here everyone. Ground side of things everything is fine. Edit: I've also added 2 Ground cables / wires. 1) Passenger side: Head to body 2) Driver side: Head to body
  4. I have my suspicions on that as well. main power from battery goes like this.. battery > am2 40A fuse > engine bay fuse box > 15A efi fuse . *provided picture shows the rest of the diagram* I’ll check that circuit if I have a chance this weekend. Thanks for checking your st205, so I am really having issues then. *facepalms* i wasn’t having any problems at all with the factory ecu and all that. But I guess this is the headache I’ll get for wanting to go a bit faster lol I have back up Circuit Opening, EFI, and Ignition Relay just in case it was just old aging relays. However, the issue still persists. What I have not done yet, it’s to check for corroded ground points from battery to chassis / engine ect., I was thinking this could be my problem.. but who knows I’ll be checking this hopefully this weekend!
  5. Hello everyone, so i might be overlooking this but what's suppose to be the normal voltage to ecu for PIN 71 +14V?? My tuner told me that my the g4+ plugin was not seeing a good amount of voltage so he had made a jumper wire from the alternator positive post straight into the (B) Pin 71 thus ECU getting 14V, and had continued tuning my car like that. I eventually had to take that jumper wire off bc it would leave the ecu activated and drain the battery even after I would turn off the car bc it's straight powered from the battery. Right now I only see ~12.8V to the ecu. With car on i have 14V at the battery posts and alternator positive post to chassis ground. Battery is in front of the car, positive cable runs through the whole length of the car into the trunk where the fuse box is located. In picture provided, it's 13V at the 15A EFI fuse White/Red Wire to (Batt) Pin 61: 12.8V Black/Yellow to (+B) Pin 71: 12.8V Here's a log that I've recorded, ECU voltage varies bc of loads like lights, signals, fan, etc.. Can someone give me some advice? Log 2019-12-15 4;37;23 pm.llg
×
×
  • Create New...