JesterTiger

sorry its been a couple of days since i last posted about this. not having the car readily available to work on is a headache.\ got a couple of logs. hopefully today i get to go out and do some driving logs of it. 2 issues. boost and throttle hang. boost seems to just hard cut as it comes on. had a look and the tuners seem to have plumbed both stock turbo actuators into one turbo vsv. yet the boost control in the map says its turned off. not sure how they expect to control things like that. also the owner has said that boost control only works with one big single turbo. so much misinformation about things. customer didn't want to mess with the boost cause its got the ceramic impeller turbos. (apparently they are not in the best of health anyway according to the guy I'm doing this for.) the throttle hang is the other thing. when you blip the throttle the rpm's hang afterwards. before settling down. its like it has an air leak. yet everything is tight. its still got the TRAC control throttle installed . but i have no idea if its wired into the Link. i doubt it. could still be fighting a wiring issue with all this and it have nothing to do with the Map or Link. apparently it was running fine before the customer took the car and then it died after the rh arch loom got eaten by the stupidly oversized tyre. that loom was repaired but there may be other issues. it also sounds like its missing a bit when idling. like its dropping a plug. yet new plugs and coil packs all tested good. trigger scope is nice and clean now. at least that headache is out the way. supra hang time.llg supra hang.pclr Trigger Scope Log 2022-11-22 5;03;20 pm.llg

Update time. So the supra runs. Starts well, idle is a bit lumpy, but then it does have stage 1 cams fitted. Customer has an issue where it doesnt boost past 4000rpm. Its a flat nope, hard cut when you plant or try and tickle it past. I know the ecu is set so it doesnt let you go past 4000 rpm till its above 80c. But even when hot its not behaving. Im fighting several small issues with this setup. I didnt get to install it, so finding out how the installer has done things. Like how both turbo wastegates are plumbed into one vsv but the option to control boost is disabled in the link. Or how its still running the stock MAP sensor and stock Brass Air temp sensor. Customer came back with "well could be the O2 sensor" not understanding its no longer using the stock O2 sensors and uses the AEM wideband instead. Going to do a laptop run out in it shortly and see if i can get some logs, but hoped the Guru being AdamW might have some peals of wisdom over it. Nothing else has been done to the map/tune since last posting it.

I'll look into that. Currently dealing with a few things with it. Found the AEM Wideband sensor was placed badly. who ever fitted it didnt read the instructions that came with it. Its got a Berk Downpipe. so they cut the body of the original Narrow band sensor off, welded the Boss for the wideband onto the 2 bolt plate. then fitted it into the stop top position. the wideband isn't a long body sensor. that with the plate, the gasket, the stand off that the stock one had, meant the poor sensor wasn't anywhere near being in the flow. although that prob saved it from being overheated being a few inch's from the turbo. my own one is at the bottom of the downpipe and ever that is really a bit too close. in process of welding in a new bung at the lower end of the downpipe at the correct angle. it was causing lean conditions. watched it on the laptop after AdamW mentioned about things going lean and not recovering quickly. also the owner doesn't have a AEM Gauge to show what's going on. just a simple Autogauge Mixture gauge, which does nothing but peg lean with a warning light. i turned it off cause its useless. however everything im doing with the MR2 Turbo right now might be a mute point. its in for a Pre MOT inspection and i have found so much rot on the rear arches that a slight dodgy idle is the least of his issues. (the idle btw happened after it was tuned by the rolling road. im just trying to sort things after the fact. and dealing with the fallout.)

Its all in bits now waiting for parts to turn up. Customer has opted to replace the entire timing belt set with nice fresh purple ones. and a TiG welded lower pulley. it was the hunting around bit that got me. i went in because it had the Right wheel go through the loom, that happened at the same time it stopped running. so it was all directed at that being the issue. going down checking all the wiring, checking for no trigger pulse, thinking its still a wiring fault and maybe its the ECU that got spiked. only when i went in and pulled the crank trigger, even with the guy im doing it for standing there saying "it wont be that, the engine was only rebuilt 1200 miles ago". looking at the trigger sensor and seeing witness marks from something hitting it. i tried using a 3SGE dizzy on a drill with the sensor taped on the side and instantly got a clean trigger pulse. managed to get a screw driver in the back of the timing hole and thats when i found the trigger wheel detached. it was just pure coincidence that the wiring loom had been cut through at the same time the trigger wheel failed. One of those things.. Next time im going right in for the trigger wheel first on one of these 2JZ-GTE non VVTi's ..

Did a test with the 3SGE VR pickup and im getting a pulse through the trigger scope. So pickup fine. Wiring fine. Ecu fine. And then it hit me. Reluctor wheel on the back of the crank lower pulley. IT HAD COME OFF!!. Engine was only built 1200miles ago. So bit un nerving. But will get on that tomorrow.

Went back and redid the trigger scope. Same results. Now i have been through and tested the sensors again. Ohms are all within spec. Tested the wiring. Thats all good. Bypassed the crank wiring with a new 2 core shielded cable. Same results. The ecu sees trig 1 and trig 2 and they go green. Every now and then it sees a rpm signal, sometimes its 36 then 3000 ish. But its never a complete constant signal. Tried disconnecting the cam triggers in case the wiring was crossed somewhere and it was causing things to go screwed. Ecu now as expected only sees trig1. But the voltages are tiny. Min 0.33v and max is less. Im going to run a test using a 3SGE dizzy with the VR sensors on that. Spin it over on a drill and see if the ecu can pick the info from that ok. (Got several of them around from the MR2s). But this whole missing trigger thing is really screwing with me. Everything is there and should work. Tests are fine. Wiring good. Just the Link doesnt see what i expect it to see. 3 trigger scopes attached. Last one is with only trig1 wired in. Yet its still seeing negative pulses in trig2 Trigger Scope Log 2022-10-5 12;39;14 pm.llg Trigger Scope Log 2022-10-5 11;26;45 am.llg Trigger Scope Log 2022-10-5 11;16;56 am.llg

that explains a lot.. whilst cranking. . ok will do it again in the morning.

Sorry its taken a few days to reply Adam. Been hit by the dreaded bug thats going around. Got a trigger log and pic. I have to drop the voltage right down to see anything. Both sensors are tested and are well within parameters. The wiring checks out, even bypassed it where it was damaged. Could the damage have caused a failure within the Link ECU itself? Trigger Scope Log 2022-10-3 3;45;22 pm.llg

This is prob another one for the Legend AdamW. Mk4 Supra 2JZ-GTE, was running, owner stopped at a petrol station to take some pics, then the car wouldn't run again. the wiring harness on the right arch was rubbed through, quite a few needed splicing. everything's matched up as it was. however it wont fire up. Gone through all the basics, Checked Timing, couldn't get a spark at first. now I'm getting a sporadic spark. had to use a new 2 core shielded cable to get the crank sensor working, i think the original one was battered a bit. still not seeing 100% RPM signal in the ECU. need to rule out anything to do with the ECU. so i have the tune and log file of the engine trying to start. it cranks over great, just suddenly try's to fire and then flames out the inlet or backfires like a cannon going off. checked for power at the coils, power at the injectors. which is has both. has a Fault of Code 11: AN V1 GND fault. Think thats the MAP sensor error. but cant see why that would stop it running, if at least for a few secs. could it still be a ground fault? like a really bad earth somewhere? i did do some tests and i had ground at the ECU and engine. supra fault.pclr supra no start fault.llg

Cheers Adam, will have a look at those the next time the MR2 is in. Need to make another post as i have an interesting 2JZGTE one for you to have a look at.

Thanks Adamw. so that's the difference between MAP and MGP. gotcha. need to do more reading up on that then. i have attached a log of Stevens tune. just need to see what others think. Steven in convinced there is an issue with his hunting and idle. if you watch the log you can see its not stable, but how stable its supposed to be im not sure. not on that Link anyway. just off to sort a G4+ on a supra thats lost its crank/rpm count. (wiring loom took a hit in the RH wheel arch and chomped through a load of the wiring. will prob run new crank and cam sensor shielded wiring to the ecu.) PC Datalog - 2022-09-17 12;57;55 pm-steven.llgx

Got a customer with a G4X that was recently tuned by a garage. been hunting a funky idle issue. have gone through all the basics, vac leak, boost hose leak, IACV issue. even replaced the IACV with a known working one. (off my own Gen3 turbo) but then went into looking at the tune done. I'm a bit curious about the Ignition map. i use a MS3X on my own Gen3. (i know Megasquirt.. but ) the Ignition map on that starts at 0 KPa and goes up from there. simple enough stuff. the one that's on the G4X tune starts at -100 KPa and goes up from there. the last two rows are the only ones in boost ie above 100 KPa. and the variations of ignition timing at the lower levels, its like no wonder its hunting. the engine is constantly changing the timing at idle or into negative vac. Hoping someone on here can provide a reason why its been tuned that way and if it could very well be the root cause of the weird idle because of this map. steven-mr2-turbo-gen3.pclx

In reply to the two replies. Tried it on two Gen3 MR2's one 1996 and one 1998. Both running the Gen3 Turbo 3SGTE engines/stock wiring. also tried it on the Bench, was what i was doing whilst i wrote the post.. in reply to the 2nd. Green light on ECU PCB. Nothing else plugged in to the board. its being Bench tested at that point. no Can fly lead, no Aux lead. Just the USB. and its obvious which is USB.. its got a big USB and an arrow pointing to the socket. Both MR2's are Gen3 that i had here, not the earlier gen2 with the AFM and TViS intakes. in fact the 1998 Rev5 Turbo is my own animal. and even that had wiring that doesn't match what is in the Link Manual. Pin 71 is wrong. on both of these cars Pin71 is a empty spot on the connector. it doesn't have power at that point. Power is on Pin72 i have tried putting power to both pins as David suggested in his email. but the ECU still doesn't do anything

Right. So the story for this one goes a bit like this. One of my customers brings me a Link G4+ PnP for his MR2 Turbo. Gen3 Import. mostly stock engine wise, but wanted to start having fun with tuning things. So he got hold of a Link G4+ from a friend of his over in the states. (were in the UK) Turned up but with having the bodywork repainted, he did not opt to install the ECU right away. so its sat at his place for a few months.. finally it comes to the day of Install. i have installed various ECU's over the years, so its not something i'm too worried about normally. these ECU's are supposed to be really easy to install. just use the original ECU case, plugs directly into the Original wiring, few tweaks for things like MAP sensors. and IAT sensors, and away it goes.. well this one didn't. Firstly we followed the manual that came with it. the Wiring pinouts didnt match the Original wiring on the loom. not 100% the Main power feed and Battery feed was the issue. with it plugged in normally there was no green light coming on with the ignition. had to move one of the wires in the Loom plug to provide power to the Link. then came plugging into the laptop. Downloaded the latest PCLink software, Installed the driver as per the instructions. plugged the USB cable in. that tell tale blipp from the laptop saying "yup i found that device" Device manager shows the Link USB connection on Comm3 so sat there thinking "well thats good. at least it was a small hiccup" Nope.. turn the power on the car and nothing.. PClink cant find the ECU. tried many different settings. every now and then it comes up with it can see the port is open but cant connect, and to Cycle the power on the ECU. quick look online and seen a few people with the same issues. but they are on win7. this is a almost new Win10 64bit system. so out with one of the older laptops. a Win7 32bit system. downloaded the PClink again. did the same install. and back to the same issue. it sits there Just searching... change things to manual and it looses the port completely. this of course upset my customer.. wasnt happy that the ECU he had bought isnt playing ball. got in touch with Link and a Chap called David, got a nice reply from him about contacting him, but so far i have got several direct to answer machine and once left a message and had no reply. I know its coming up to christmas .. but need help. as for tonight's mission. spent the last 3 hours going through almost every post on this forum regarding connection to the PC. even got a power supply out, and connected the ECU to my Big gaming Rig. Still sits there "searching" or looses the port when its set to manual. tried the Firmware search and that comes up with the whole cycle power thing... If it has to go back to Link, its going for a LONG trip.. It means this ECU has to go back to the States and then the seller there has to send it off to New Zealand for service/repair. i don't understand why a service center in my own country couldn't have a look at it? (supposed to be one in Birmingham UK) anyway. hopefully someone on here might just go "yeah ahh its XX" and come up with something.. would really make Jus (customer) Christmas if it wasnt a brick..