Kassan1973

Hi All, my eb ford turbo is doing some wierd stuff and wanted some advise , in a nut shell engine comes on boost runs fine up to about 400 rpm then goes flat stops making power and revs climb at a much slower rate engine before the lastest changes was never like this used to make linial power all the way to redline changes from last engine include going from a water/ air to Air /air IC, larger cam 218@50 up from a 212@ 50 a used link G4 extreme ECU instead of from a J3 chip now i have done the following , chnaged back to 212cam tested IC pressure drop 3psi from comp cover to intake, measured exhaust pressure post turbo precat 3.2-4 psi , thes emay not be perfect but far from totally out of the ball park, MY question relates to the link ECU is there anyway it could be pulling timing but not showing this on the logs , as logs look fine im running 16deg at 10psi 14 at 16psi and logs show no issue , i havnt had a chance to get it back on the dyno to physically test with a timing light but has anyone had an issue like this or will all timing chnages show up on the logs im using a dual pickup hall sensor in dizzy for triggers and sequential multi coil Thanks Dean

Hi All, I have an eb ford, with EF cam and crank sensors with a G4 extreme ecu, my question relates to the cam sensor supply voltage according to the ford manual its has a 12 volt supply and i wanted to know if this was ok, ie does this effect the output voltage to the link ecu. As every now and again i loose the cam sensor signal i can swap the sensor and it starts again only to play again at any given time in the future , im am going to run a new separate cam sensor loom to eliminate this as potential issue also but wanted to confirm if i needed to change the supply voltage . Thanks dean

Hi All, I have an EB ford turbo with g4 extreme ecu running seq injection multi coil with the factory ef crank and cam sensors, intermittently it wont start, i initially thought it was a crank sensor issue so replaced it with a new one and also ran another loom to that sensor however it played up again yesterday cranks but no start. i have noticed the following ign on fuel pump will prime and when cranking it turns on which leans me to thinking its getting a crank signal , so my question is if the cam sensor is actually playing up will the car fire if it never receives the cam position signal? Thanks Dean

HI all Any other suggestions on this ? Cheers Dean

Another update , if i have the crank sensor disconnected at engine problem goes away, if its an issue with stray current would it only be induced if there is a full circuit or should it still trigger if sensor connected?I am using some HD shielded microphone cable for the crank and cam sensors which is grounded as per instructions at the ecu end, could the cable be an issue? or sensor perhaps when car is running there are no issues at all scratching my head ATM? Dean

Hi Adam its a strange one tried several earths to headlights .body and engine same issue, it doesnt seem isolated to the headlights as i had the interior fuse out also to try and isolate things and everytime i push the interior light fuse back it , this also triggers the pump and isc , i will remove my cold air box to see if i have missed an earth wire during my battery relocation and let you know. Cheers Dean

Thanks Adam ill try that i had similar thoughts , if it works oK i will run a dedicated earth for headlights straight to battery , as battery was relocated from driver to passenger side of car . Regards Dean

During my testing of a crank sensor i came across another issue, when i have ignition car not running and turn head light on fuel pump would prime , after connecting PC to check whats happening it seems the fuel pump, tach output and isc output all activate for a second with isc indicating crank % dc each time i turn the headlights on with ignition on car not running , my ecu earths are directly to engine i havnt checked anything yet but i would assume the headlight wiring earth may be suspect as i have relocated battery and these earths that did go directly to battery are now earthed to the body instead do think this would be a fair assumption. G4 extreme ecu ford EB sedan Cheers Dean

Thanks Adam, Tha original settings were the ones your provided i will make that adjustment and see how it goes. Are those cheap handheld oscillscopes on ebay useful for testing this kind of stuff. Regards Dean

Hi all just wanted to know if there were any previous issues with older g4 extreme ecu , i have one in an EB ford with ef crank and cam sensors runs fine but lately when i turn car off and come back to restart it 10 minutes later it cranks no fire , when i connect pc its showing no engine rpm. I have connected a std multi meter and checked the voltage on the crank trigger wire at the ecu and there seems to be some variation during cranking , today during the warmer weather In melbourne i disconnect ecu and left in the shade for 5 minutes as i was in a carpark reconnected and it started and ran perfectly. I am going to put a new crank sensor in to rule this out is there anythink else i can check to confirm ecu may be failing when hot, It has a sticker with a 4 digit number on the back and im unsure if its been repaired before , Thanks Dean

Fantastic , lucky i guess that it matches a ford BTR trans temp sender. Thankyou

Hi All i have the following information for a BTR trans temp sender and want to know the best way to put it in a calibration table, doing the ohms and output is ok but i only have limited figures and the calibration table has quite a number of columns more than i need and i can figure out how to delete columns. Im just going to use the middle ground of each figure as this should be close enough for my use Would this work think its correct i just interpolated between all the known figures sorry for the pic

Thanks Adam a bit different to what i had setup but great. Thanks for reply HI Adam just read all this makes some sense now i always like to understand what i am setting up for future reference. Example: Creating Hysteresis (on at one value, off at a lower value) It is quite common to want to turn an output on at a value (eg 4000 RPM) but not want it to switch off until a lower value (eg 2000 RPM). This is often used by factory vehicles for intake runner control (eg Toyota TVIS) or switched cam control. The following numbers show how to turn the auxiliary output 2 on when engine speed goes above 4000 RPM and keep it on until engine speed falls below 2000 RPM. Switch Logic = Cond (1 AND 2) OR 3 SW Cond1 = RPM > Sw Value1 = 2000 SW Cond2 = AuxValue1 = ON Sw Value2 = 2 (the selected auxiliary outputs number) SW Cond3 = RPM > Sw Value3 = 4000 This may seem a little confusing but can be explained by breaking the switch logic down. The logic is: On when (RPM > 2000 AND Aux 2 is On) OR (RPM > 4000) It works in the following manner: 1. Assume the auxiliary output is already off. 2. As engine speed goes above 2000 RPM, the conditions we have are RPM is above 2000, but aux 2 is not on or RPM is not above 4000. · On when (RPM > 2000 AND Aux 2 is On) OR (RPM > 4000) · On when (true AND false) OR false. · On when false OR false · On = false 3. As engine speed goes above 4000 RPM, the conditions we have are RPM is above 2000, but aux 2 is not on or RPM is above 4000. · On when (RPM > 2000 AND Aux 2 is On) OR (RPM > 4000) · On when (true AND false) OR true. · On when false OR true · On = true 4. As engine speed goes back below 4000 RPM, the conditions we have are RPM is above 2000 and aux 2 is on but RPM is not above 4000. · On when (RPM > 2000 AND Aux 2 is On) OR (RPM > 4000) · On when (true AND true) OR false. · On when true OR false · On = true 5. As engine speed goes back below 2000 RPM, the conditions we have are RPM is not above 2000, but aux 2 is on or RPM is not above 4000. · On when (RPM > 2000 AND Aux 2 is On) OR (RPM > 4000) · On when (false AND true) OR false. · On when false OR false · On = false The point to note here is that the auxiliary output uses its own on/off state to select what RPM it turns on/off at. When it is not on, it turns on at 4000 RPM, but when it is on, it turns off at 2000 RPM.

Anyone? Cheers

Just looking again at the GP output is has a on and off value ? would this be in deg C and when i nominate the ANT3 for condition it comes up with a gearbox temp in the box below ( fine) and then a window next to it ? will this window represent the actual gearbox temp once i have laptop connected to ecu as i can currently put a figure in here altough i just playing around on my desk top to get it all figured out before doing on the actual ecu Thanks Again