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craig12895

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  1. Just following up that switching the CAN anti-theft request to no has fixed the starting issue thus far. Still have a bit of a long cold start but I believe it takes a while for the triggers to activate. Will continue to mess with cold start to see if I can improve it at all. But thanks for the anti-theft assistance!
  2. Been having some issues with a long cold start and hot cranking on my PNP G4+ (my car is a g35 sedan using the 350z G4+). I thought these were initially linked to an RPM limit triggering issue I was having originally. I have since changed out the camshaft and crankshaft sensors with brand new Hitachi (OEM) sensors and the rpm triggering issue has not arisen again. However, I do still have an issue with excessive cranking when cold and a lack of start when the car is warmed up. While I was out today I noticed that when I was starting the car when hot the Engine Kill was switched 'ON' and FuelCut would go to 100%. Then I realized that when Im doing this, Im simply turning the key one notch to turn the car off and restart it (i.e. I'm never removing the key). I cranked it a few cycles and everytime Engine Kill would switch ON. Then I decided to remove the key entirely and reinsert an attempt to start the car. This time, Engine Kill never came 'ON' and the FuelCut nstayed at 0% and the car fired right up. Any idea what may be triggering it to Engine Kil when I dont remove the key? I went through the fuel cut menus and didnt see anything blatantly obvious. In the event that it is helpful,I am attaching 2 logs. One of them is titled "hot cranking" which is when I never removed the key and Engine Kill reads 'ON'. The other log was recorded immediately afterwards when I removed the key. 20200405 Hot Start.llg 20200405 Hot Cranking.llg
  3. Alright so I have attached a trigger scope of the original cam sensors at 4500rpm. Then I swapped the cam sensors and recorded another trigger scope at idle. It seems that I forgot to save the 4500rpm trigger scope with the sensors swapped. And Ive attached a short log of cruise driving with the sensors swapped. Immediately upon switching the sensors it took the car much longer to start occasionally taking several key cycles before it would actually start and idle on its own. But I started it 3-4 more times throughout the day and it seems to have gotten much better at starting. ShortCruise_SwappedCamSensors.llg TriggerScope_4500RPM_craig12895.llg TriggerScope_Idle_SwappedCamSensors.llg
  4. I greatly appreciate that feedback! I have a spare vq35de sitting in the shop and all of the sensors are relatively new (~5k miles) compared to what is in my car. So I will likely just swap the cam sensors with that engine. I won't be able to make progress on this until early this week but I will update when I can.
  5. Greatly appreciate that link! And for what its worth, the car acted up about a minute after recording this trigger scope. Max RPM jumped to around 6k RPM and the car stuttered and died, presumably because its adjusting fuel and ignition as though its at 6k rpm yet I was cruising around 2,000 rpm. IdleTriggerScope-craig12895.llg
  6. Im using the PNP 350z G4+ on a g35 sedan. The sedan has the VQ35DE so the base configuration settings for the 350z ecu should all work well with the sedan. The issue Im having is the RPM Limit falsely being activated causing the car to fuel cut. It would occasionally happen at idle and cruising (does not seem dependent on my particular rpm). After the fuel cut occurs the ECU statistics would show max RPM being over 13k. In order to not have this interrupt with normal driving I have turned the RMP limit off in the meantime until I could sort out the issue. Trigger filtering is set to 1, which is the default setting for the 350z PNP G4+. And I would attach a trigger scope but it appears that my G4+ does not have that built in, or I at least cannot find the location to access it. I don't have an official oscilloscope handy either which is inconvenient but Im trying to think of other ways to diagnose the issue. I would suspect that incorrect polarity is not an issue as all of the sensors are OEM.
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