Zociety350

You’re a life saver, I have spent countless hours trying to figure this out. It was a vacuum T that had a resistor in it that was meant for my boost guage. Thank you allot for the info. It’s working perfect now.

Sorry for the late response, blew a head gasket so had to get that fixed first. I attached my tune and log. You will notice when driving if I let off the gas completely then stab the throttle it will go all the way lean for a split second and then jump back to normal. I have tried tweaking everything i can find on the software, put all new sensors on the car etc. and nothing really helps. Hopefully someone here will notice something im missing. It also is a 2003 Nissan 350z, Built low compression engine, 1200cc (Fuel Injector Connection) injectors, Custom turbo kit, fuel system, etc Log 2023-07-3 12;16;59 pm.llg 7-3-22 12.12.pclr

Sorry for the delay response. As soon as I get home I will get you guys a log and tune file.

I’m having a problem with my Z where when I stab the throttle quick it will hesitate, it will go lean and jump back to normal. When cruising I’ll let off the throttle get back in it and have a 2 second delay, it’ll pop then jump back. I’ve tried messing with the accel/wake-up enrichment, cold correction, calibrated MAP, tps, tried all new sensors on car, check base timing etc. Nothing is helping. My tuner thinks it’s not in the tune but I’ve checked everything and I’m stumped. If I turn the load=map to load=off it will rev up no problem with zero hesitation. But run really rich. At this point I don’t know what to do, any help would be great.

It changes on pc link also, and I have my boost gauge, lc2 controller and gauge grounded to metal piece under the dash. Also the main power wire to everything goes straight to the battery

Ok so I'm having problems with my wideband interfering with my coolant gauge, I have it wired to pinout 16 on the ecu. when I turn my car on when the wideband is warming up it will read hot, then once the wideband start reading the coolant gauge start reading normal even tho the motor isn't warmed up, if I disconnect the wire going to the ecu the coolant gauge goes to normal, I've checked to make sure its on the right pinout 100 times. I've checked all the wiring and its all good. I'm so confused.

Yes I actually somewhat figured it out, adjusted the main fuel and started running way better. and also I don't want to make a new thread again, but I have a 2004 Nissan 350z and I read on here somewhere that my Innovate lc2 wideband connects to pin 16 on the ecu. I did that but noticed it messed with my coolant sensor, so I'm curious if I have it on the right pin

I think I figured it out, since I’m not using my maf sensor now, the plug was sitting on the manifold melted. And everytime it got hot it would melt and ground out., but do either one of you know how to tune? Right now it just has the base map but I want to get it to somewhat run right before i take it in to get dyno tuned.

I just got a turbo kit installed on my 350z, brand new g4+ ecu and when it’s cold it’ll run fine but as soon as it gets to operating temp it keeps popping 15a ign & eccs cont fuse. I have no idea what it would be. Any help would be great

Alright thank you

I bought a link g4+ for a 350z and I didn’t get and unlock code. And I don’t want to wait till Monday to get it. The serial number is 04596. Thank you

Awesome, thank you

Hello, so I just purchased a link g4 ecu for my 04 350z and have a lc2 wide band I’m trying to hook up to the ecu. I read on here it’s slot 16 but for the wideband there’s a yellow wire and a brown wire. Currently I have the yellow wire hooked up to the wideband gauge. So I’m trying to figure out what wire should go to the ecu from the controller. The yellow wire is 0v = 7.35 AFR and 5v = 22.39 AFR. The brown wire is 1.1v =14AFR and .1v = 15AFR. So which one should I use?