JFB

Hi Adamw, I've finally gotten around to putting my engine back together. I started it. Still only two cylinders. At least it starts! lol. I've tested continuity between one green and one purple, then the other green and other purple. There is no continuity between green and purple on the ECU pins. There is continuity between the two greens individually. There is also continuity between the two purples individually. Is that what was meant to be tested? What's next? Thanks, JF

By pins 1-3 and pins 14-16 you mean if there is continuity between greens and purples?

Hi Adamw, Thank you for your reply. I am having an issue with injectors 3+4 not sending a signal to the actual injectors. I have tested all the wiring from ECU to injectors and it all checks out. The continuity is there, and there is 12v to the ECU. The ground of the ECU itself is also working. When I use PCLink to test the injectors, I am able to see that testing injectors 1+2 works as it should. When I try to test injector 3+4, nothing happens. This makes sense since the injectors aren't working when I start the engine. I am thinking there is an issue with the ECU or AdaptaLink. What else can I do to narrow down the problem? Can my ECU be fixed if it's indeed the problem? Thanks. JF

Hi. The other day on the track, I lost power. Turns out, it seems my NA8 Supercharged Miata lost cylinder 3 and 4. I have tested a lot of stuff and it seems to me I'm having a ground issue with injector 3 and 4. I have 12v to both injectors, but looks like something is preventing the injectors from grounding and therefore sending fuel in the cylinders. I have used the test injector function in PCLink: injectors 1+2 function as advertised, but 3+4 are silent. I am now following wires from the injectors to the AdaptaLink, but first I am trying to test continuity in the wires. Problem is I cannot find a pinout for the adaptalink I have. Therefore I cannot test continuity from the AdaptaLink to the injector... I have looked on the manuals page, but the adaptaLink for a Miata doesn't seem to match the one I have. I have included a few pictures. A pinout for AdaptaLink would be appreciated. Thank you JF

What a great question... How can I tell? Looks like I may have a LEM G3. Is there no workaround to pulse an injector in the manifold? Like a 12V relay maybe?

Hi. 1995 Miata 1.8L, Fastforward supercharger. Link G3/G4 ECU with Mazda adaptalink. 4x 14 ohm 550cc injectors. Need to add 5th injector for cooling in intake manifold between supercharger and engine block. How do I got about controlling that 5th injector? Is it via the auxiliary injection? The 5th injector needs to pulse every time one of the other 4 main injectors pulse. Any guidance is appreciated.

Hi Adam, Thanks for replying... I have figured out my issue this morning. I have an Autometer 5978. Turns out the values on the gauge were set at 0V-4V -> 10-16 AFR. And the values in my CAL table in the ECU were set to 0V-5V -> 10-22 AFR. I set the gauge to 10-20 AFR and did the same on the ECU CAL table. I also changed the volts from 5V to 4V in the CAL table. This fixed the issue. I am now within 0.1-0.2 AFR gauge to ECU. Thanks forum!!!

I’m not sure. ill ha e to follow the wires. I didn’t install it myself and it’s been there for over 10 years. Isnt there a way to set the input voltages for a given AFR in the G4 software? Like a calibration setting in the G4 program?

I’M a little new at all this tuning stuff, but I understand most aspects. I want to try and refine my AFR and fuel maps... But first, I need to resell every an issue with AFR. I have a wideband gauge in the car, and I compare it to the wideband from the G3/G4 ECU on my computer. The ECU seems to always be reading 2.0 to 4.0 higher than the wideband gauge. Is there an adjustment for the reading in the ECU? How do I get both AFR values to match? And more importantly, which one is correct? I have seen other ECU programs where you can set voltages in the ECU software to match the gauge you bought... I can’T find that in the G4 software... I’m assuming my gauge is correct, and I’m assuming the gauge is sending a signal to the ECU... Thanks