Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by bsh

  1. This is a nice Caterham the customer built the engine and installed the Link Atom 2 ecu himself and I did the startup and tuning. Car runs very well and with an extremely crisp throttle response:) K-series engine with modified crank trigger.
  2. I will just wire in the sync:) Thanks
  3. I will run wasted spark and dont want to wire a cam sync if I dont have to since I will be using the Atom with 4 outputs.. Ok thanks:)
  4. Hi, Is it possible to use this trigger without cam sync? Thanks
  5. 36-1 is like other said the preferred trigger. I have tuned a lot of Cosworths with the stock crank and cam trigger working just fine.
  6. Tooth added, and fired up. Everything seems fine:)
  7. Something mechanical wrong with engine, like cam timing, clogged cat etc? What are the turbo capable of?
  8. Hi, Is there a trigger mode that suits this trigger pattern? It is a Rover with a 18-1, 18-1 tooth on the cank. Trigger sees 17-gap-17-gap pr revolution. Running with no cam sensor and distributor. I started it configured as multitooth missing and 18-1 and as a 2 cyl just to get it running and check new built engine for leaks. Runs/idles very nice, but rpm are double of the actual. I have tried all 3 Rover trigger modes I could find in software, but seems all of them need a cam sync. Thanks
  9. Do you have a stable rpm while cranking about 200 rpm? Are trig1 and trig2 green? (runtimes-triggers to check status) Have you confirmed that the coils are working/wired correctly? You can do an ignition test via the software to activate each ign output. Very nice function. You can do the same with the injectors also, but be careful not to flood the engine with fuel... Btw I love the 2JZ:)
  10. bsh

    2003 Evo 8 crazy idle

    Regarding the ignition table, the cells from 0 kpa and lower, are way off... I would copy the base map table and fine tune from there. (0 kpa to -20 kpa @ 4000 rpm to 5000rpm look decent)
  11. If I remember correctly, the instrument need a tacho signal for the oil light to switch off. Check the wiring to the tacho. When tacho works, the oil light will switch off again (as long as there are oil pressure)
  12. Thanks. Can you provide instructions on how to upgrade hardware, or must it be shipped to Link?
  13. Hi, will the Link AIM Strada MXS work with the the old V44 serial 6676? Thanks
  14. bsh

    Tacho feed

    I have an Evo 2 that I have converted to coil on plug, and the tacho dont need high level signal. It will work with an aux-output setup as Tacho like most "newer" cars do. The plugin ecu should already have a tacho output taken care of. I assume you are using the plugin ecu for an Evo 1-3 vehicle?
  15. I wouldnt bother with map sensor as long it is an NA-engine. I prefer using TPS as load with ITB. If it is turbo, then use both map and tps.
  16. Hi, Anyone have a decent setup we can start with? Engine is a Mitsubishi 4G15 running a GT2860R with a 36 mm restrictor. 302 whp running on E100. Running with an oem Audi 1.8T DBW throttlebody. Antilag will be activated via a digital input. Thanks
  17. Ah great, thanks for excellent support:) btw do you never sleep?
  18. Hi, A rally car that needs 2 more analog inputs for EGT (not Can). Have 2 free, but need 2 more for 4 EGT in total... Temp3 and Temp4 are free, but suppose they cant be used as 0-5V inputs as they have pullup? Car use DBW. Can I use only one anaalog for TP Main and one analog for AP Main, and get rid of TP Sub and AP Sub and run it in setup mode as it isnt used for the road and ditch failsafe? Then I have 2 more analog inputs free:) Thanks
  19. Little update regarding the Hella SSR relay. It still gets very hot, and after a while, it wont output full voltage... I believe I must look for something else... I just wired a normal relay so SSR relay get bypassed and pump get full voltage at about 35% injector dutycycle... Have anyone tried the AC Delco/GM fan controller?
  20. Thanks for the reply, I found a 15A diode from back in the days I raced Rc-cars with brushed motors/esc, which I soldered into the circuit, and now it seems to work, at least for about 10 mins when I tested. The diode was warm, but was able to hold it. The same for the relay, warm, but able to hold it. Stable voltage output as well. I guess I must find a more suitable SSR, but have seen other people use the Hella SSR controlling fuel pump...
  • Create New...