bsh

For the knock you wire direct to Di3 pin and then select internal digital knock. Make sure the Di3 function has been set to off.

I did a Ford Fiesta ST150 once. I believe it had something like 128hz, and lowering the duty cycle, increased voltage. If I remember correctly, 40% was about 14.0 Volt.

Thats good news:)

You must confirm that the sensor outputs a signal when it sees the tooth. If it doesnt, the ViPEC will never see the signal and you will therefore not get any speed measurements. You should buy/borrow a diode test lamp (they are really cheap) and see that the output signal change when the tooth passes by the sensor. I believe it should work if the tooth is made of a material that will work with the sensor. Not stainless steel or aluminium. You can use a cheap diode test lamp as this one: http://biltema.no/no/Bil---MC/Verktoy-o ... 8-V-15669/ Cost about 5 usd.

Have you scoped/checked with a diodetestlamp that the sensor actually reads the collars? Have you tried with pull-up on/off? I have seen people made trigger wheels of non-magnetic material resulting that the sensor doesnt see the teeths...

email sent. I noticed after I sent the email, that I put abit low dwell in the 12-14V region. You can safely raise to about 4 ms.

You must lock ignition and setup offset using a timing gun. Adjust offset till actual timing is the same as in software. If you dont know how to do this prosedure, see software for help. Help function in software is very, very good. How is trigger 2 setup? In runtime values(press R), triggers/limits do you see a steady 200 rpm while cranking and trig1 and trig2 signal "Yes"?

What kind of trigger pattern are you running in the dizzy? Are you running 2 trigger sensors? Remember if you are running 1 sensor, you must use a pattern with ie a missing tooth so the ecu knows where in the 720 egree cycle the engine are since you are running direct spark with 4 ign outputs. Are you running 2 triggers in dizzy, one of them are for sync. ie 4 teeth for trig1 and 1 tooth for trig 2. (like early Evo 1-3)

The new i-series ecus will let you choose between imperial or metric, not v-series...

If you have a newer V44 with a blue LED, it have a 4-bar mapsensor inside you can use. Older have 2,5 bar inside. If you want to use your external 5 bar, you must enter the sensors scaling-values into a free cal table. They who delievered the map-sensor, should be able to get you the scalings.

If I remember correctly, there was an issue with firmware V4.8.1 and V4.8.81 regarding stepper motor idle turned on that would cause similar problem like you have with your Evo 8. Car starts and stops right after. Check if you have this firmware. You must also fix your mapsensor calibration as Dave comments. Ben Stian

Yes you are correct, but it will work:) Believe the ecu limits the current to 4A.

As long as you have the newer V44 (with blue led-diode) with 4A drivers, you will be fine.

Should be pretty sraightforward. Use small scaling at low throttle opening % on the TPS-axis ie 0-2-5-10 or even closer. There are smaller differenses on larger throttle openings, so it is not so important to have them close there. Every 10% should be plenty. Insert TPS % as needed.

Hello Check your email:)

You can have ignition only based on MAP/MGP, but you will loose power on low TPS like cruising. Better setup 4D ignition spanned on TPS to add timing on light load. You can have 100 kpa manifold pressure with 100% TPS @ 2000 rpm, but you can also have 100 kpa manifold pressure with say 40% TPS @ 2000 rpm. These two different scenarios, needs different timing even if they have 100 kpa manifold pressure. So yes, better setup a 4D ignition table to get more power on light load/low TPS. It will work without 4D ignition, but you will sacrifice power on light loads.

Hm your maps looks pretty strange. I found 2 random maps on my computer. One off my private cars and one customer car, and they dont look that bad at all... Did Simon find something odd in your map?

Sounds really strange... So if I understand correctly, on your WS setup the coil at cyl 1 & 6 are paired and there is 3 crank-degrees offset from these two coils running from the same IGN 1 output using the same (one) timing light triggering from the HT-lead?

EDIT: I used 722 rpm/s as ramp rate, NOT 500 rpm/s as I stated before...

What Simon says works very well. You can have ignition only based on MAP/MGP, but you will loose power on low TPS like cruising. Better setup 4D ignition spanned on TPS to add timing on light load. You can have 100 kpa manifold pressure with 100% TPS @ 2000 rpm, but you can also have 100 kpa manifold pressure with say 40% TPS @ 2000 rpm. These two different scenarios, needs different timing even if they have 100 kpa manifold pressure.

Thanks The car is now 2.1 (94 mm stroke) vs 2.3 (100 mm) as in the first dynosheet so I am very happy with spool. I think 50+ hp should be in reach with alittle more boost:)

I prefer using the fuel table setup as TPS. Disconnect boost and tune for fuel up to 100% TPS. Setup ignition table as MGP. You may have to setup a 4D table as well for ignition with TPS to compensate (add ignition) for low load/low tps as normally you have very little vacum with ITB engines. Setup a 4D fuel table with MGP and then connect boost and tune boost cells. Keep the upper cells at 100. Thats the way I feel works good, but there may be different ways to do it.

Had a some hours yesterday for my car and did abit tuning with E85 and the new 3.5" exhaust. Ended up with 495 tq and 650 hp@the hubs (Dynapack). Here is the dynosheet with E85 and 30 psi of boost. Could not boost more due the actuator dont want more... Have a stronger dual port Forge actuator from Full Race that will be fitted. Boost is 30 psi and is achieved @5000 rpm with a 500 rpm/s ramp rate. Exhaust back pressure was about equal boost pressure@6000 rpm and rose to max 5,8 psi over boost pressure higher in the revs. Max turbospeed I saw was 104.000 rpm.

Are you using sparkplugs with resistor?

They should be the same.