BikeMurgunder

I guess I have another question about pressure sensors then. Do all the Link branded pressure sensors read vacuum or just the "map" sensors? I am probably over thinking this, but does it make sense to use "absolute" sensors for everything?

Hello all! I have installed a few new Honeywell MIP sensors for various things and I want to make sure I have everything set correctly. Could you please take a look at the settings here and let me know if i screwed anything up? For pressures, I am using the 100psi (MIPAN2XX100PSAA) sensors for oil pressure, coolant pressure, and boost pressure. I am using the 100psi (absolute, MIPAN2XX100PAAA) sensors for MAP. For my cal tables, I have them set as follows: Table 4 (100psi gauge): Input A: .50v Input B: 4.50v Units: PSI Output A: 0 psi Output B: 100 psi Table 6 (100psi absolute) Input A: .50v Input B: 4.50v Units: kpa Output A: 0 kpa Output B: 588 kpa

Quick FYI for 2GR people. The heads are labeled on the trans side of the heads. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Dnk_21ueZ6vJwvT8H0GF2TT8-0Yx8YHd/view?usp=drivesdk

Thanks Adam! Appreciate the quick response!

I have a question about the maximum wiring length for the main bus length. The help file says 15 meters long. Does this factor in the twisted wiring? Or is it assuming 15 meters of wire, then twist the wires? I only ask because with my MR2, the ecu is in the trunk so I am trying to figure out optimal routing based on the wire length I have to work with. Thanks!

My RH cam sensor had a 1.5k ohm (I didn't have a 1K for trigger at the time). So it seemes to react better than the other cams that had 2.2K? That make any sense?

Log here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OQxXDor54qhQw_6GjlT-XwkGNhJpJEuo/view?usp=sharing Cold start with all 4 cams set with max clamp 20%. Errors are still there on all cams except RH inlet. I am going to open the loom and see what was different with that one.

One additional update as well. I left VVT active (1500 rpm lockout) and unplugged the OCV's. Here is a log of a cold start and rev with them unplugged. No trigger errors and no rpm cutoffs. I ran out of time today, but ill try to unplug one at a time. Log 2021-07-11 OCV unplugged, cold start.llg

Ok got an update. I attached a cable from the battery negative terminal to the engine block. It did not change anything for the trigger voltage to ground. As for resistors, I have attached 4 scopes with different resistors for trigger 2. The original scopes above were a 2200ohm. All of these ran EXCEPT for the internal pull-up. It would crank and start, then immediately die. Let me know what you think! Trigger Scope Log 3200 ohm Trig 2.llg Trigger Scope Log 2700 ohm.llg Trigger Scope Log internal Trig 2.llg Trigger Scope Log 1K Ohm Trig 2.llg

Ok so I have a few thoughts on this. My grounds are as such: I have the engine harness' two main grounds attached to their factory spots on each head. ECU earths are tied to those grounds through ecu plugs. My battery is up front and the negative terminal goes direct to chassis. Engine has 2 1-ga wires going from block to chassis. The only thing that stands out is I have the ecu mounted in the factory ecu case (hacked to fit). The factory case has a plastic barrier inside so the ecu body isn't directly mounted to car body. There is a buffer. I am using the ecu mounting shell and it is bolted to metal. Does the link g4+ series use the ecu case as a ground? Sensor grounds are internal, but where do they ground themselves in relation to engine grounds that an offset could form? I am going to run a jumper cable from my battery negative to the block and see if that direct connection alleviates any offset through the chassis. Also, my resistor was a 2.2K ohm on the LH cam sensor.

since the rpm issue happens with vvt active at anything less than full temp, i wonder if it could be oil pressure/flow related. And is the vvt actuator not homing all the way due to varnish build up from the previous life of this motor.

Sounds good. I have attached 2 logs. One is a cold engine (2-3 minute idle) and the other is a warm engine. The LH cam sensor had a 2.2K ohm. I didnt switch them when i correct the wiring apparently Log 2021-07-6 - LH Cam Test WARM ENGINE.llg Log 2021-07-6 - LH Cam Test.llg

Would it be beneficial to change over to rising edge? It would keep my edges further away from the gaps. Redoing the offsets isn't an issue.

And a quick follow-up. Was this the waveform you were expecting to see from my motor? I have the book for this motor and I am not noticing mine seems to be shifted from this waveform.

I have attached trigger scopes with the following conditions: Cold Start - Idle (1100rpm) 2200 rpm 3500rpm 4000 rpm I also attached a cold(ish) start and did some revving to force cam errors. Again this all goes away when warm. Do you want a trigger scope with the solenoid unplugged? or a data log? Trigger Scope Log 7-5-21 4000 rpm.llg Trigger Scope Log 7-5-21 3500 rpm.llg Trigger Scope Log 7-25-21 2200 rpm.llg Trigger Scope Log 7-5-21 cold start.llg Log 2021-07-5 2;04;53 pm cam errors.llg