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Jared

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  1. Jared

    High idle after rev

    That's what I initially thought too. However, while it was sticking at 2800rpm I inspected the throttle body and it wasn't stuck, resting perfectly on the throttle stop as it would when it idles correctly at 2000rm. Throttle body is an aftermarket 90mm.
  2. Jared

    High idle after rev

    Experiencing a random issue with my idle. Car has been running perfectly fine for many months, put new plugs in it today and this happens... Start the car, it idles perfectly. However, on revving the engine or driving it, idle will only return to around 800 rpm higher than its set idle, almost as if the throttle is stuck slightly, yet it isn't. When driving the car, if keep the car in gear and use the brakes to bring the rpm down near idle rpm, then put the cutch in or take it out of gear, it'll idle perfectly. As soon as I rev it or accelerate again, rpm will stick again. On logging this, TPS is reading zero at both regular idle and and when it sticks. Any ideas? Engine is a Mazda 20B PP. Log 2024-02-23 6;28;49 pm.llg
  3. Hi there, Hoping for some advice on cold start adjustments I can make in the PC Link software to enable an engine with large overlap start off they without any throttle. Currently I have to open the throttle a tad to enable the car to start when it's cold. I need to hold the throttle in this position to keep the engine running until its at around 30+ degrees, then it'll just idle on its own until it fully warmed up and idles perfectly. It seems no amount of adjustment to the post start enrichment table can resolve the issue of the throttle needing to be partially open. Engine just wants a lot of air flow when starting and running cold. Winding the idle screw in on the throttle body is not a solution, as this then provides too much airflow when its warmed up and impacts the idle. Is there and tuning corrections I can make, or do I simply need to g to an idle control valve or e-throttle to remedy this?
  4. Jared

    Data logging

    Hi. I'm assuming there's probably an obvious answer to this but I have not been able to find from any Youtube videos as yet. I have a Link Fury G4+ with the Link Aim Strata 5" dash. When it comes to data logging, is there an easy way I can turn this on or off via my dash? The only way I know how to data log at present is to plug my laptop into the ECU, open the PC Link software and manually turn it on or off. This is not practical if I'm out driving somewhere and don't have my laptop on hand. Thanks.
  5. Thanks Adam. On looking at the tune, accel enrichment appears to be turned on. Could it just be needing some adjustments? Perhaps in the clamp table?
  6. Hi Adam, Thanks for your reply. As far as I'm aware, dash is only wired to CAN H and CAN L on the ECU connector. Could this issue still happen with only these connected? I could inspect the cable and double check the connections if necessary.
  7. Hi Adam. Thanks for your response. No cams here, 20B peripheral port engine. Hence the minimal vacuum. I'm not familiar with the meaning of "accel fuel" sorry. Very novice when it comes to the ECU and software side of things.
  8. On open the throttle the first few % the car will often splutter before clearing and accelerating. To try and understand this, I had the car idling and logged what happens the is pressed. It seems to go very lean. When car was dyno tuned, it was running perfect. But recently this issue has come about. Any ideas as to what this could be or how I can correct this? See log attached. Log 2022-10-23 2;35;16 pm.llg
  9. Can anyone tell me why I'm only able to use one communication port on my ecu at a time? If my Link Aim dash is plugged in, my laptop can't connect on the other port. As soon as I unplug the dash, laptop communicates with the ECU fine. I've heard there's a way to correct this. Can anyone tell me?
  10. Thanks again for the prompt response. Problem solved! It is a Link branded AEM MXS dash. Issue was the ECU stream. This was set to "Link-CAN FULL LCC". Have corrected this and we have communication. Can you assist with the Race Studio software? Having some issues with the fuel level calibration. Nothing to do with the ECU as this an analogue input directly to the dash.
  11. Thanks for your reply Adam. I'm using a PCB cable to plug into the communication port on the ECU. The other end I've chopped and connected the white(CAN H) and green (CAN L) wires to the blue (CAN L) and white (CAN H) on the AEM dash loom.
  12. For some reason my Fury ECU doesn't appear to talk to my AEM dash over CAN. I'm confident it's wired correctly. I'm using pin 3 (CAN H) & pin 4 (CAN L) on the communications port. PC Link CAN setup as below. Yet on configuring the channels in the dash software I'm getting nothing displayed. Any ideas?
  13. Got an opportunity to drive the car over the weekend log about half an hour of driving which highlighted a few things to look into. Will correct these before trying the quick trim function. Noticed the inlet air temperature remained consistent on 20 the entire time throughout the log. After testing the sensor and wiring to find it all ok, I found I had not set the air temp input in the PClink software. Corrected now. Is this something likely to have an impact on the data currently set in the fuel table and how the car performs?
  14. Thanks for your help. It is indeed a Bosch LSU 4.9 that I'm running. I've traced my wires back and there was an error. It's corrected now and working perfectly. Much appreciated. Another question; How effective is the autotune function on a large ported rotary? 20B Semi PP turbo. Challenge I'm having is the car runs smooth and pulls seamlessly up in the higher RPM. But idle and lower RPM it appears excessively rich, very fumey, coughs and splutters, stalls when RPM comes down approaching an intersection, and almost undrivable. I'm well familiar with ported rotarys and know how aggressive they can be at low RPM. What I'm experiencing is certainly in the tune and not the engine itself. As I'm relatively novice the using the various tuning tables, I thought the autotune maybe able to assist?
  15. Hi Adam, Was quite a few years since I wired my car up. Hoping you may be able to clarify for me what wires on the wide band should correctly go to which pin on the ECU? The sensor is a Bosch LSU4.2 5 wire. Interestingly it has 5 wires from the sensor to its supplied plug, then 6 wires out from this plug (see attached diagram). Of these; black, grey, white, yellow, red, green. Which are to be be connected to where on Loom B (or elsewhere)?
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