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Dave Kriedeman

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Dave Kriedeman last won the day on March 8 2018

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About Dave Kriedeman

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  • Birthday 03/25/1968

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    Cairns, Australia
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  1. Decided to fit some Bosch Motorsports Injectors. Regards Dave.
  2. Hi, Yep that'll do it. Good find. Regards Dave.
  3. Hi, 10.21 volts cranking is getting low. Are you reading that voltage with a multi meter at the battery or on your laptop under RUNTIME VALUES. If you are reading that voltage at the battery the voltage at the ECU will be lower and it will not connect to your laptop. Try putting a charger on the battery, turn the ignition on, do not try to start it, see if the relay still clicks, check if you are able to connect the ECU to your laptop. Make sure your charger has at least 4 amps plus. If not use another battery or vehicle with jumper leads. Regards Dave.
  4. Hi all, chasing some info that seems to be eluding me. Vehicle 2007 WRX IMPREZA , Dark blue top feed injectors, number on injector is DENSO 058 0631 13 This does not match any injector number i can find for this WRX. I keep coming up with this DENSO number for the 565 cc injectors this is meant to be. 16611AA720 - 565 cc Dark Blue top feed 2007 WRX Injector for EJ25. I am after injector data to enter for a G4+ LINK PNP So minimum effective Pulse Width Injector Dead Time Values Injector Short Pulse Width Adder Any assistance will be appreciated. Regards Dave.
  5. Hi there, thanks for sharing this info, is there a link or anything to the new software to correct this issue. I shall GOOGLE their site and see if it is on there. Thanks again. Regards Dave.
  6. Dave Kriedeman

    Link display

    Hi Greg, Unfortunately the MARINE version is not going to be able to be modified, When LINK do something, THEY DO IT RIGHT, That sucker is sealed for ever. Sorry. Regards Dave.
  7. Dave Kriedeman

    Link display

    Hi Greg, have you considered having your ecu modified so that it is CAN enabled, takes 20 minutes and it is done. Only required if the Serial number is PRE 10 000. Regards Dave.
  8. Hi all, i haven't been on the forum for ages now. Wanted to start trying to get back into it and adding what ever bits and pieces i can add to help or confuse (ha ha ha). I was quite happy to see this post and find out about this app. I have been helping a very smart electronics engineer who lives overseas with a couple of electronic sports dashes that he has made along with many many other devices he builds. I have VER.1.00 of the dash at present for testing. I am currently working with interfacing via CAN BUS / OBD2 between his dash and my LINK G4+ THUNDER TEST ECU. I have this setup to my AUTOSIM 1 Engine Simulator, my laptop and a variety of colour touch screen displays , from 0.96" to 7", as well as Tablets and smart phones. I do this to keep my mind active and as a hobby. Just to throw more complexities into this bundle i am also at the same time interfacing Raspberry Pi and Arduino as separate devices, to achieve the same end result. From reading some of these posts i get the feeling some of the people posting maybe overlooking the easiest solution of all which i did many many years ago and that was to simply use a Windows based tablet , run PC LINK on the device and create as many dash layouts as you wish, data log etc and have the ability to tune if experienced. Using a USB WIFI dongle also allowing for remote tuning or at least tracking live data from the pits if at drift events etc. Most of you will already know this anyway. But the flip side of the coin using your phone or tablet and simply downloading a free app, gives you a cheaper and in some circumstances a quicker overall option. I am also running a WINDOWS 10 Latte Panda SBC with 10" coloured touch screen and PC LINK. So as i progress with my projects i will keep you all updated. I will also look into use and test this app now i know it exists. I have also considered adding an Arduino ESP WROOM 32 or equivalent for extra inputs etc and BLUE TOOTH /WIFI ability, which includes WIRELESS CAN BUS comms. I also have Arduino TEENSY's and all sorts of bits and pieces laying around. But for now i am keeping things simple and having physical connections and once everything is proved in the field, i may be silly and dive in the deep end. Bye for now Regards Dave.
  9. Hi, depending on setups i use either dual fuel table or 4 D fuel table. All comes back to the mechanical differences and VE of the engine along with many other variables. Next time you have this tuning hurdle try the dual fuel table option versus the 4D and look at the differences especially around 100 KPa or 0 MGP change over areas and the effects on the fuel table values and or the effects on the tune as the engine goes on boost. Food for thought. Regards Dave.
  10. Hi, i have done a ViPEC V88 that i modified for CAN BUS and then setup for the MICROTECH DASH. The CAN BUS would not work if the MICROTECH TEMPLATE was used in the DASH or the ECU. I had to use GENERIC, but i have not done a G4+ or i SERIES sorry. If i had the dash here still, i could set it up on my simulator and Thunder and work it out for you. But the instructions i had for the G4 and V series were incorrect, from Microtech side. I worked it out and got it working well. I will have a look into it for you if i get a chance. I am setting up a DASH 2 and DASH 2 PRO at present on G4 and G4+ ECU's. Regards Dave.
  11. Hi, the standard Trigger 1 & 2 wires in the LINK supplied looms are well and truly up to the job. If i am making my own loom i use BELDON 8723 SCREENED 2 X PAIR. Regards Dave.
  12. Hi everyone, Well the FORUM pages certainly look a bit prettier than before. I am still alive and still having good and bad days. However on my good days i still try to support LINK/ViPEC customers and do a little tuning. I also spend some time configuring and sorting issues for customers and friends. Not sure if this has already been sorted but i have decided to make the post anyway due to sorting the issue testing and proving it works on Friday just past. CAN BUS settings for both G4+/iSERIES ECU and MoTeC C SERIES COLOUR DASHES. Please find attached sample PCL for G4+ using a FURY and MoTeC comms config files etc for C Series colour dashes. Any issues please advise. Special thanks to my friend Mohammed from PCG (Pro Car Garage) in Saudi Arabia for testing my files as i had no dash to test on. Simon and Adam if already done please delete. This has been tested and is all working perfectly, there are a lot of parameters in my template, still room for a lot more to be added. Regards Dave. LINK G4+ with MoTeC C125 ETC_CANBUS CONFIG..c125v60 LINK G4+_ MoTeC C125 DASH ETC.CC8 G4+ Fury_ MoTeC C125 SERIES DASH CAN BUS CONFIG.pclr
  13. Hi Mapper, i have done a lot of race boats etc with MoTeC sports dashes using ViPEC ECU'S when you purchase the dash the 2 options for the GPS are a 10 and a 15 Hz and believe me we get mega data with them and no time issues. But point taken. Regards Dave.
  14. Hi all, a very big hurdle as far as the use of the very much preferred NTK sensor is simply the availability of the information as far as the software and the code to write the software to the NTK control chip. This information is simply not available to who ever asks for it making it virtually impossible to write to the hardware chip that the NTK sensor is controlled with. I have used lots of different brands of wideband meters for many many years and have had my share of sensor failures, mine are more so just plain worn out, use of leaded fuels such as avgas, Excessively rich mixtures on a hot sensor that destroys them as they get cold shock when very hot. Dropping them, melted wires, and the biggest one the unknown, loan it out , used to work, get it back doesn't work anymore. Letting the battery run flat with the sensor hooked up. Lots of things will destroy these sensors and or shorten there life span, incorrect angle in exhaust allowing H2O to come into contact with the heated element causing failure. As we all know H2O is a by product of the combustion process and can not be eliminated. So unless you have millions of dollars to get the chips coded and a full reconfiguration of the main ECU or another CAN MODULE i doubt we will see much happen here. The best advice i can offer is to avoid the above mentioned sensor killers. Calibrate your meter regulary, avoid over rich mixtures. Poor tuning of engines that cruise at 11:1 instead of stoich or a little leaner if possible will save the sensor life also. Also in this day and age, is that really a genuine, LSU 4.2 or LSU 4.9 sensor. The other issue is if the sensor is connected to a controller then an analogue output voltage from the module to the ECU is not of high standard, the sensor may be fine and the meter is the culprit. And this is where we come full circle back to the Innovate LM-1 with no analogue volt output earth/sensor ground. Earth looping. This issue was big enough for Innovate many many years ago to design and build a GIA, GROUND ISOLATION AMPLIFIER to stop ground loop feed back effecting readings. There are wideband meters on the market running NTK sensors, with the intellect (i definatly don't have it) and the ability to buy the chips,maybe the code could be reverse engineered to get the base code to program the chip, who knows. Anyway just my long 2 cents worth. Regards Dave. P.S BY THE WAY DAMIEN KING THIS IS YOURS HA HA HA HA, SHOULD BE THERE SOON.
  15. Hi, as far as what values to put in the tables, they really need to be setup and tuned on the dyno and a final configuration on the road. WARNING, Knock Control IS AN ADVANCED FEATURE, so be careful. It really should be setup by an experienced tuner who has very good knowledge with all the functions and processes. I am in NO WAY STATING YOU DO NOT HAVE THE SKILLS, i am purely casting a broad statement to all who may read this thread. When you go through all of the KNOCK CONTROL setup, you should USE YOUR BEST FRIEND IN THE WORLD, The F1 button or RIGHT CLICK , WHAT'S THIS. The help file needs to be read and understood for each and every selection. There are also some basic starting point settings to work with. You must also consider how you have setup KNOCK CONTROL. Items such as DO YOU WISH TO HAVE THE KNOCK CONTROL TABLE VALUES ALL RETURN TO 0 (ZERO) on restart etc etc. You also need to make sure that the KNOCK MONITORING DEVICE , whether it be onboard or external has been correctly setup with correct, frequency, deadband,etc. There are many variables to consider. So please take some time to read through the HELP file. If you have trouble finding something, with the HELP file open hit the SEARCH TAB and type in what you are looking for. Get an understanding of how you have set everything up and then follow through with your questions as there could be hundreds of solutions to your problem. Or post up your PCL file. Regards Dave.
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