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Dave Kriedeman

Dealer
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Dave Kriedeman last won the day on May 23 2022

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About Dave Kriedeman

  • Birthday 03/25/1968

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  • Website URL
    http://www.protuningcairns.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cairns, Australia
  • Interests
    HORSEPOWER,EFI,TUNING,MUAY THAI KICK BOXING, FISHING

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Dave Kriedeman's Achievements

  1. Hi, i am very sorry for this extremely late comment and may have already been addressed and no longer an issue for people. I used the OTG cable supplied by GADGETS FOR GEEKS and had no issues with both data and charging on my cheap Lenovo TB-8304F1 touchscreen tablet. Now it has been many years since I did this, I still have 4 of these cables but I no longer have any tablets to retest the order in which you need to connect the cable up. I think the process was either on the GADGETS FOR GEEKS SITE or I GOOGLED IT. I can not remember the exact steps. I shall endeavor to retest and repost. Ignore this if no longer an issue. The issue I found in relation to using these cables is the steps in which you connected the devices up. I have attached images of the components I used.
  2. Hi everyone, it has been a long time since I have been on the forum, so hopefully I can add some useful information for you all to consider. In regards to this topic and sensor faults etc Along with the obvious things such as sensor location, making sure to minimise the chances of condensation (H2O) contamination, and creating thermal shock on the sensor itself, the main contributing factor to most wideband reading issues is covered by a number of words, all with the same basic meaning! These words that follow, are counterfeit, copy, forged, knock-off, etc. My write-up here is focused on counterfeit sensors. Unless using a Thunder or Fury with direct termination and you are using some form of wideband controller using an analog volt output to a dedicated analog volt input on your ECU, make sure this is set up correctly and there are no earth looping issues, etc. Also if using a CAN BUS wideband unit of any brand that it is also configured correctly. Also remembering the price, if these are cheap then they are as they say too good to be true, and probably not genuine. I have had several discussions with Bosch over this very topic. You see, our friends that are pretty much experts at copying just about everything are making it damn near impossible in some circumstances to identify the real fantastic BOSCH product from the fake, these days. So I shall offer a few examples for you to keep an eye out for when you next wish to part with your hard-earned dollars and purchase a true BOSCH WIDEBAND OXYGEN SENSOR. Firstly is the packaging. If it's in the old yellow box with red writing there is a fair chance it is a fake, unless it is covered in cobwebs and dust and is old stock. The packaging should be in a dark blue box with white diagonal banding with the BOSCH name in red capital letters and a grey Bosch logo before the name. The box also has images of starter motors, sparkplugs, pulleys, oil filters, batteries, and other automotive parts on it. However, sadly they have even caught onto this and upgraded the box colours and other details. At the top end of the box, the end that you would normally open the box at, it has a sticker with a QR CODE, this is nothing for us however there is a silver HOLOGRAPHIC type part on the sticker with an Alpha-Numeric code which once again means nothing to us but acts as another indication of genuine packaging. Now don't be alarmed if you have all of this showing true but you find it says on the sensor or the packaging, MADE IN MEXICO, Yes, believe it or not, BOSCH has a manufacturing factory in MEXICO. My contact at Bosch Australia has been there and toured the facility. So remember the part can be made in Germany or Mexico. Now to the sensor itself. Anyone can copy a part number and logo with the required details and brand or mark the product with the correct equipment. However, the genuine Bosch part number and details that are on the metal casing of the sensor should be laser etched and feel very smooth to the touch, copies/fakes normally have their details stamped onto the metal housing, they have like a very neat pin-punched appearance to the numbers and letters and are very easy to feel with your fingertips and even more so if you use your fingernail. So using the trusty Bosch LSU 4.9 Motorsport sensor that we all strive to use and hope to get the real deal, the following should ring true. Firstly there is a prefix number which is LS17025 then directly below the prefix number is the main part number of 0 258 017 025. Then the BAR CODE NUMBER should be 3 165 143 521519 this should mean it is a Bosch LSU 4.9 with a 1-meter lead connected to the sensor itself, with its 6-pin connector block attached with 5 wires. Then the other giveaway to a fake is the price. A lot of online stores and suppliers are selling these sensors cheaper than people in the trade can even get them for so that's saying something. One other thing also, is if you are running a LINK FURY or THUNDER and turn the WIDEBAND FUNCTION to ON WHEN STALLED for cold start tuning, remember to turn it back off as having it on and running extremely hot without the engine running tends to damage them also. If running an after-market wideband meter kit, it would pay to question the manufacturer if they have allowed for any sensor heater control strategies for cold start or even warm restart as far as when the sensor uses the heater circuit or if it even has one. A couple of other points, obvious but I will mention, never drop the sensor at all, especially hot. Be careful not to crush the sensor body on removal or reinstallation especially if using the open end of a spanner. I hope this may be of some use to somebody. Regards Dave.
  3. Hi all, I just wanted to congratulate the team at LINK on a truly stunning upgrade to their WEBSITE. The colours and the layout etc really catch the eye. Very pleasant to scan through the pages. The format is very well laid out. Also not just the WEBSITE, but the company and products in general. I have been with LINK as a user and dealer since the conception of ViPEC and it has been sure great to be part of and also a witness to the transformation and growth of an already great product and company to a world leader in the Electronic Fuel Injection Industry. I have also really enjoyed working with the LINK team over all of these years and hope to continue doing so. So congratulations LINK and very well done. Keep going on this fantastic journey. Regards Dave Kriedeman PRO TUNING.
  4. Hi all, I just wanted to congratulate the team at LINK on a truly stunning upgrade to their WEBSITE. The colours and the layout etc really catch the eye. Very pleasant to scan through the pages. The format is very well laid out. Also not just the WEBSITE, but the company and products in general. I have been with LINK as a user and dealer since the conception of ViPEC and it has been sure great to be part of and also a witness to the transformation and growth of an already great product and company to a world leader in the Electronic Fuel Injection Industry. I have also really enjoyed working with the LINK team over all of these years and hope to continue doing so. So congratulations LINK and very well done. Keep going on this fantastic journey. Regards Dave Kriedeman PRO TUNING.
  5. Dave Kriedeman

    Dbw s15link

    Hi Vasilis, As far as i am aware the answer to your question is NO sorry. It may be a possibility to actually do, however i would not like to guess as to how much such a one off custom modification would cost. May i ask why you wish for DBW as opposed to the standard mechanical throttle. Regards Dave.
  6. Dave Kriedeman

    Dbw s15link

    Hi, there are some aftermarket DBW controllers on the market that have their own setting and calibration setups from their own software and control module. You would need to purchase a DBW PEDAL assembly as well as an appropriate DBW throttle body assembly. You would also need to purchase expansion loom kits for the PNP ECU to allow for extra AN VOLT INPUTS and OUTPUTS to interface with the DBW control module you choose. You need to then see before purchasing and committing to this if you will have enough outputs and inputs to work in conjunction with the control module you choose. Also find out if the unit has the capabilities of doing what you want it to do, if your wishing to get certain motor sports functions from it etc. Pay special attention to the unit you purchase as far as what safety features does it have inbuilt for sensor failure and limp strategies etc. Hope this helps, Regards Dave.
  7. I use proper OTG (ON THE GO) cables from GADGETS FOR GEEKS here in Australia. They are a Y shaped cable and allow for data transfer and device charging at the same time. The part number is (S - PC- 4562B) from memory it cost approx. AUST $15.00. Regards Dave.
  8. Decided to fit some Bosch Motorsports Injectors. Regards Dave.
  9. Hi, Yep that'll do it. Good find. Regards Dave.
  10. Hi, 10.21 volts cranking is getting low. Are you reading that voltage with a multi meter at the battery or on your laptop under RUNTIME VALUES. If you are reading that voltage at the battery the voltage at the ECU will be lower and it will not connect to your laptop. Try putting a charger on the battery, turn the ignition on, do not try to start it, see if the relay still clicks, check if you are able to connect the ECU to your laptop. Make sure your charger has at least 4 amps plus. If not use another battery or vehicle with jumper leads. Regards Dave.
  11. Hi all, chasing some info that seems to be eluding me. Vehicle 2007 WRX IMPREZA , Dark blue top feed injectors, number on injector is DENSO 058 0631 13 This does not match any injector number i can find for this WRX. I keep coming up with this DENSO number for the 565 cc injectors this is meant to be. 16611AA720 - 565 cc Dark Blue top feed 2007 WRX Injector for EJ25. I am after injector data to enter for a G4+ LINK PNP So minimum effective Pulse Width Injector Dead Time Values Injector Short Pulse Width Adder Any assistance will be appreciated. Regards Dave.
  12. Hi there, thanks for sharing this info, is there a link or anything to the new software to correct this issue. I shall GOOGLE their site and see if it is on there. Thanks again. Regards Dave.
  13. Hi Greg, Unfortunately the MARINE version is not going to be able to be modified, When LINK do something, THEY DO IT RIGHT, That sucker is sealed for ever. Sorry. Regards Dave.
  14. Hi Greg, have you considered having your ecu modified so that it is CAN enabled, takes 20 minutes and it is done. Only required if the Serial number is PRE 10 000. Regards Dave.
  15. Hi all, i haven't been on the forum for ages now. Wanted to start trying to get back into it and adding what ever bits and pieces i can add to help or confuse (ha ha ha). I was quite happy to see this post and find out about this app. I have been helping a very smart electronics engineer who lives overseas with a couple of electronic sports dashes that he has made along with many many other devices he builds. I have VER.1.00 of the dash at present for testing. I am currently working with interfacing via CAN BUS / OBD2 between his dash and my LINK G4+ THUNDER TEST ECU. I have this setup to my AUTOSIM 1 Engine Simulator, my laptop and a variety of colour touch screen displays , from 0.96" to 7", as well as Tablets and smart phones. I do this to keep my mind active and as a hobby. Just to throw more complexities into this bundle i am also at the same time interfacing Raspberry Pi and Arduino as separate devices, to achieve the same end result. From reading some of these posts i get the feeling some of the people posting maybe overlooking the easiest solution of all which i did many many years ago and that was to simply use a Windows based tablet , run PC LINK on the device and create as many dash layouts as you wish, data log etc and have the ability to tune if experienced. Using a USB WIFI dongle also allowing for remote tuning or at least tracking live data from the pits if at drift events etc. Most of you will already know this anyway. But the flip side of the coin using your phone or tablet and simply downloading a free app, gives you a cheaper and in some circumstances a quicker overall option. I am also running a WINDOWS 10 Latte Panda SBC with 10" coloured touch screen and PC LINK. So as i progress with my projects i will keep you all updated. I will also look into use and test this app now i know it exists. I have also considered adding an Arduino ESP WROOM 32 or equivalent for extra inputs etc and BLUE TOOTH /WIFI ability, which includes WIRELESS CAN BUS comms. I also have Arduino TEENSY's and all sorts of bits and pieces laying around. But for now i am keeping things simple and having physical connections and once everything is proved in the field, i may be silly and dive in the deep end. Bye for now Regards Dave.
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