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Dave Kriedeman

Dealer
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Dave Kriedeman last won the day on March 8

Dave Kriedeman had the most liked content!

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About Dave Kriedeman

  • Rank
    TUNER, DEALER
  • Birthday 03/25/1968

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.protuningcairns.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cairns, Australia
  • Interests
    HORSEPOWER,EFI,TUNING,MUAY THAI KICK BOXING, FISHING

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  1. Dave Kriedeman

    Using 4D fuel table?

    Hi, depending on setups i use either dual fuel table or 4 D fuel table. All comes back to the mechanical differences and VE of the engine along with many other variables. Next time you have this tuning hurdle try the dual fuel table option versus the 4D and look at the differences especially around 100 KPa or 0 MGP change over areas and the effects on the fuel table values and or the effects on the tune as the engine goes on boost. Food for thought. Regards Dave.
  2. Dave Kriedeman

    Monsoon + Microtech Dash CANBUS Setting Issue

    Hi, i have done a ViPEC V88 that i modified for CAN BUS and then setup for the MICROTECH DASH. The CAN BUS would not work if the MICROTECH TEMPLATE was used in the DASH or the ECU. I had to use GENERIC, but i have not done a G4+ or i SERIES sorry. If i had the dash here still, i could set it up on my simulator and Thunder and work it out for you. But the instructions i had for the G4 and V series were incorrect, from Microtech side. I worked it out and got it working well. I will have a look into it for you if i get a chance. I am setting up a DASH 2 and DASH 2 PRO at present on G4 and G4+ ECU's. Regards Dave.
  3. Dave Kriedeman

    Crank trigger wire

    Hi, the standard Trigger 1 & 2 wires in the LINK supplied looms are well and truly up to the job. If i am making my own loom i use BELDON 8723 SCREENED 2 X PAIR. Regards Dave.
  4. Hi everyone, Well the FORUM pages certainly look a bit prettier than before. I am still alive and still having good and bad days. However on my good days i still try to support LINK/ViPEC customers and do a little tuning. I also spend some time configuring and sorting issues for customers and friends. Not sure if this has already been sorted but i have decided to make the post anyway due to sorting the issue testing and proving it works on Friday just past. CAN BUS settings for both G4+/iSERIES ECU and MoTeC C SERIES COLOUR DASHES. Please find attached sample PCL for G4+ using a FURY and MoTeC comms config files etc for C Series colour dashes. Any issues please advise. Special thanks to my friend Mohammed from PCG (Pro Car Garage) in Saudi Arabia for testing my files as i had no dash to test on. Simon and Adam if already done please delete. This has been tested and is all working perfectly, there are a lot of parameters in my template, still room for a lot more to be added. Regards Dave. LINK G4+ with MoTeC C125 ETC_CANBUS CONFIG..c125v60 LINK G4+_ MoTeC C125 DASH ETC.CC8 G4+ Fury_ MoTeC C125 SERIES DASH CAN BUS CONFIG.pclr
  5. Dave Kriedeman

    Track-display logging with G-force sensor

    Hi Mapper, i have done a lot of race boats etc with MoTeC sports dashes using ViPEC ECU'S when you purchase the dash the 2 options for the GPS are a 10 and a 15 Hz and believe me we get mega data with them and no time issues. But point taken. Regards Dave.
  6. Dave Kriedeman

    Link made CAN wideband with LSU 4.9 or NTK

    Hi all, a very big hurdle as far as the use of the very much preferred NTK sensor is simply the availability of the information as far as the software and the code to write the software to the NTK control chip. This information is simply not available to who ever asks for it making it virtually impossible to write to the hardware chip that the NTK sensor is controlled with. I have used lots of different brands of wideband meters for many many years and have had my share of sensor failures, mine are more so just plain worn out, use of leaded fuels such as avgas, Excessively rich mixtures on a hot sensor that destroys them as they get cold shock when very hot. Dropping them, melted wires, and the biggest one the unknown, loan it out , used to work, get it back doesn't work anymore. Letting the battery run flat with the sensor hooked up. Lots of things will destroy these sensors and or shorten there life span, incorrect angle in exhaust allowing H2O to come into contact with the heated element causing failure. As we all know H2O is a by product of the combustion process and can not be eliminated. So unless you have millions of dollars to get the chips coded and a full reconfiguration of the main ECU or another CAN MODULE i doubt we will see much happen here. The best advice i can offer is to avoid the above mentioned sensor killers. Calibrate your meter regulary, avoid over rich mixtures. Poor tuning of engines that cruise at 11:1 instead of stoich or a little leaner if possible will save the sensor life also. Also in this day and age, is that really a genuine, LSU 4.2 or LSU 4.9 sensor. The other issue is if the sensor is connected to a controller then an analogue output voltage from the module to the ECU is not of high standard, the sensor may be fine and the meter is the culprit. And this is where we come full circle back to the Innovate LM-1 with no analogue volt output earth/sensor ground. Earth looping. This issue was big enough for Innovate many many years ago to design and build a GIA, GROUND ISOLATION AMPLIFIER to stop ground loop feed back effecting readings. There are wideband meters on the market running NTK sensors, with the intellect (i definatly don't have it) and the ability to buy the chips,maybe the code could be reverse engineered to get the base code to program the chip, who knows. Anyway just my long 2 cents worth. Regards Dave. P.S BY THE WAY DAMIEN KING THIS IS YOURS HA HA HA HA, SHOULD BE THERE SOON.
  7. Dave Kriedeman

    Help with ignition map

    Hi, as far as what values to put in the tables, they really need to be setup and tuned on the dyno and a final configuration on the road. WARNING, Knock Control IS AN ADVANCED FEATURE, so be careful. It really should be setup by an experienced tuner who has very good knowledge with all the functions and processes. I am in NO WAY STATING YOU DO NOT HAVE THE SKILLS, i am purely casting a broad statement to all who may read this thread. When you go through all of the KNOCK CONTROL setup, you should USE YOUR BEST FRIEND IN THE WORLD, The F1 button or RIGHT CLICK , WHAT'S THIS. The help file needs to be read and understood for each and every selection. There are also some basic starting point settings to work with. You must also consider how you have setup KNOCK CONTROL. Items such as DO YOU WISH TO HAVE THE KNOCK CONTROL TABLE VALUES ALL RETURN TO 0 (ZERO) on restart etc etc. You also need to make sure that the KNOCK MONITORING DEVICE , whether it be onboard or external has been correctly setup with correct, frequency, deadband,etc. There are many variables to consider. So please take some time to read through the HELP file. If you have trouble finding something, with the HELP file open hit the SEARCH TAB and type in what you are looking for. Get an understanding of how you have set everything up and then follow through with your questions as there could be hundreds of solutions to your problem. Or post up your PCL file. Regards Dave.
  8. Dave Kriedeman

    Help with ignition map

    Hi, what octane fuel are you running, Is the knock control setup correctly. Are there any ignition adders being applied such as AIT or ECT timing trims setup incorrectly in the tune. The biggest one in WRX's is IAT charge setup and the placement of the AIT sensor. Posting the PCL and possibly doing a PC data log with all parameters selected at 40 hz would help also. Have you tried reducing the timing values by say 2 degrees in those areas, saving the file as a different name and loading to the ECU to try. What heat range are your sparkplugs, what is your AFR at the suspected KNOCK area. Regards Dave.
  9. Dave Kriedeman

    Stalling when comming a stop.

    Hi Lostsoul, unfortunately you haven't given us much to work with, like what vehicle/engine is it,is it DBW, does it have an idle control system,what ecu are you using etc etc. A copy of your PCL file would also help. Does the stall happen all of the time,only when engine is cold, only when hot, only with air/con on etc etc. So many variables to consider. Regards Dave.
  10. Dave Kriedeman

    No fuel getting into engine - Monsson

    Hi, no problem, If you get lost with it all, i do offer online remote desktop assistance also. Regards Dave.
  11. Dave Kriedeman

    Base Map for TB48

    Hi all, just an update, I am currently assisting Chris with his project. Regards Dave.
  12. Dave Kriedeman

    missfire

    Hi, still taking into consideration of the above mentioned things to be checked and confirmed, i have also analysed your LEAN spot PCL FILE and the corresponding data log. Please take no offence to the following, i am just trying to help out. Both the FUEL and IGNITION tables really need some work as far as the entered values etc. Not much makes sense in there when doing a comparison in relation to the data log. May i also suggest running some finer resolution via more load and rpm points if tuning via data log or make sure the dyno can sustain the load cell accurately if load cell tuning on the dyno. If the dyno is holding the load nice and steady then you will get away with fewer load points as the ECU can very easily and accurately INTERPOLATE between the cells. However if there is a mechanical issue with the engine it could be the reason for such strange fuel table numbers. The IGN timing table using, E85, METHANOL or what ever are also extreme at some points, with quite large changes,from some adjacent cells. Just remember that all TABLE cell values influence the cells around it which has a snow ball effect to a degree. So for example the very large fuel cell numbers at low RPM and high Boost values in your MAIN FUEL TABLE even though you wont see that boost at that rpm , the values will still influence those around them through INTERPOLATION. Does the rear of the intake manifold leak oil. Regards Dave.
  13. Dave Kriedeman

    missfire

    Hi , looking at the deposit on that injector tip to me suggests possibly oil. What does the deposit smell like. Oil coming back past the intake valve due to backfire, incorrect firing order, valve overlap which should be evident on all injectors. If hydraulic camshaft to much pre load on that lifter, pumping up holding valve open at rpm, bent valve, poor valve seating. If solid, too little or no lash causing valve to ride. Intake manifold has poor underside seating or blown gasket, this leaves an opening directly into the floor of the inlet runner. Any excessive blow by or poor crank case scavenging can lead to excessive crankcase pressure which can be seen normally at the front crank seal, rear main at times or if the intake has an issue as described. As you can see there are many possibilities, first we need to address the BLOODY OBVIOUS, WHAT is the deposit on the injector tip consist of. As for your leak down if i had 25% i would be concerned. (PURELY MY OPINION). How do the other cylinders compare. I have been looking at your logs. Can you please give me a brief run down on what your engine combo is etc. Does the intake manifold have an EGR crossover passage or anything strange like that. Do you have a PCV fitted or any type of crank case vacuum scavenging devices. Regards Dave.
  14. Dave Kriedeman

    Piggyback V88 VCT Nissan

    Hi, old post but yes the VCT on the TB 48 works exactly the same as RB 25 DET , RB 25 DET NEO, SR 20DET. Your choice how you wish to control it, i use GP PWM with 3 conditions along with the PWM table to give me another axis of control Regards Dave.
  15. Dave Kriedeman

    CAN-Lambda Problem <Resolved>

    Hi all, unless there is some unknown reason to me, A shield wire should be encasing/surrounded or wrapped around signal wires normally. The end of the shield should normally be terminated to sensor ground and the opposite end left non-terminated. Soldered connections are less desirable due to possibility of dry or poor joints. The other main reason is the heating of the wires during soldering can create an issue with the longevity of the wire cores and them becoming brittle, which through movement or vibration can or may cause complete breakage or partial disconnection leaving only a few cores to carry the signal, current what ever it may be. This will increase resistance obviously. This reply is a well known fact however i feel it is worthy to mention the reasons behind , for those whom may not know or understand. So crimping is always the preferred method unless otherwise instructed with accompanying explanation. Regards Dave.
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