Dave Kriedeman

Here's something for the wish list that would apply to the PCLink tuning software, that preferably could be applied to both G4X and G4+ versions. Would it be possible to add a "Layout Display Scaling" function to the software?
What I'm thinking of would take the existing user's layout (i.e., applies globally to all pages/tabs), and proportionally scales the horizontal & vertical size of the original layout on each page/tab up or down by a user defined percentage. The idea here is that if you have an existing layout you like that fills the screen of one laptop, and then switch to a different tuning laptop/tablet, with a different screen size/resolution, you wouldn't have to go thru the tedious process of editing your existing layout to fit/fill the screens on the new device - just play with the new global scaling feature instead.

I dont think there is a way to do this at present.  I see there is a "wish list" item in the system to investigate if this is possible.  
My understanding from a friend that has designed a similar strategy in his "research level" ecu is you need a minimum of 60 teeth on the crank to get good enough resolution/detail of the crank acceleration, then a fairly complex cylinder pressure model to create an expected crank acceleration channel to compare against the measured crank acceleration. 

Is anything recorded in Windows Event Logs when it crashes?  I'd expect something to be logged in either the Application or System Event logs which will point you in the right direction

Hi everyone,
it has been a long time since I have been on the forum, so hopefully I can add some useful information for you all to consider.
In regards to this topic and sensor faults etc
Along with the obvious things such as sensor location, making sure to minimise the chances of condensation (H2O) contamination, and creating thermal shock on the sensor itself,  the main contributing factor to most wideband reading issues is covered by a number of words, all with the same basic meaning!
These words that follow, are counterfeit, copy, forged, knock-off, etc.
My write-up here is focused on counterfeit sensors.
Unless using a Thunder or Fury with direct termination and you are using some form of wideband controller using an analog volt output to a dedicated analog volt input on your ECU, make sure this is set up correctly and there are no earth looping issues, etc.
Also if using a CAN BUS wideband unit of any brand that it is also configured correctly.
Also remembering the price, if these are cheap then they are as they say too good to be true, and probably not genuine.
I have had several discussions with Bosch over this very topic.
You see, our friends that are pretty much experts at copying just about everything are making it damn near impossible in some circumstances to identify the real fantastic BOSCH product from the fake, these days.
So I shall offer a few examples for you to keep an eye out for when you next wish to part with your hard-earned dollars and purchase a true BOSCH WIDEBAND OXYGEN SENSOR.
Firstly is the packaging.
If it's in the old yellow box with red writing there is a fair chance it is a fake, unless it is covered in cobwebs and dust and is old stock.
The packaging should be in a dark blue box with white diagonal banding with the BOSCH name in red capital letters and a grey Bosch logo before the name. 
The box also has images of starter motors, sparkplugs, pulleys, oil filters, batteries, and other automotive parts on it.
However, sadly they have even caught onto this and upgraded the box colours and other details.
At the top end of the box, the end that you would normally open the box at,  it has a sticker with a QR CODE, this is nothing for us however there is a silver HOLOGRAPHIC type part on the sticker with an Alpha-Numeric code which once again means nothing to us but acts as another indication of genuine packaging.
Now don't be alarmed if you have all of this showing true but you find it says on the sensor or the packaging, MADE IN MEXICO,
Yes, believe it or not, BOSCH has a manufacturing factory in MEXICO.
My contact at Bosch Australia has been there and toured the facility.
So remember the part can be made in Germany or Mexico.
Now to the sensor itself.
Anyone can copy a part number and logo with the required details and brand or mark the product with the correct equipment.
However, the genuine Bosch part number and details that are on the metal casing of the sensor should be laser etched and feel very smooth to the touch, copies/fakes normally have their details stamped onto the metal housing, they have like a very neat pin-punched appearance to the numbers and letters and are very easy to feel with your fingertips and even more so if you use your fingernail.
So using the trusty Bosch LSU 4.9 Motorsport sensor that we all strive to use and hope to get the real deal, the following should ring true.
Firstly there is a prefix number which is LS17025 then directly below the prefix number is the main part number of 0 258 017 025.
Then the BAR CODE NUMBER should be 3 165 143 521519  this should mean it is a Bosch LSU 4.9 with a 1-meter lead connected to the sensor itself, with its 6-pin connector block attached with 5 wires.
Then the other giveaway to a fake is the price.
A lot of online stores and suppliers are selling these sensors cheaper than people in the trade can even get them for so that's saying something.
One other thing also, is if you are running a LINK FURY or THUNDER and turn the WIDEBAND FUNCTION to ON WHEN STALLED for cold start tuning, remember to turn it back off as having it on and running extremely hot without the engine running tends to damage them also.
If running an after-market wideband meter kit, it would pay to question the manufacturer if they have allowed for any sensor heater control strategies for cold start or even warm restart as far as when the sensor uses the heater circuit or if it even has one.
A couple of other points, obvious but I will mention, never drop the sensor at all, especially hot.
Be careful not to crush the sensor body on removal or reinstallation especially if using the open end of a spanner.
I hope this may be of some use to somebody.
Regards
Dave.
 
 

Well, I can honestly say that I'm a very happy boy at the moment. 
I dusted off my old Nexus 7 tablet (running Android 4.4.4) and got RealDash installed and hooked up to my G4+ with no issues at all. Getting the data I wanted (eg ethanol content) was where I started to come unstuck. Did all the reading through this thread, saw the issues with the data stream for lambda and didn't see anything with setting up Ethanol% output.
Long story short, I found in PClink help what is supported over OBDII...I had always planned to connect via OBD as I used to use racechrono etc with my factory ECU. But RealDash over OBDII using my old cheap ELM327 has achieved an awesome result. The data has probably .5 second lag for the fasted refresh rate data, but for me, I'm not using this as "dash". I just wanted to monitor. So it's perfect. 
 
Anyway, I already have some AEM gauges for AFR, Boost and Oil Press, so I got drawing and created my background and dials for my "dash". I also threw in some "lights" for good luck. So what went from wanting a solution for ethanol%, i definitely got carried away. 
 

Hi everyone,
it has been a long time since I have been on the forum, so hopefully I can add some useful information for you all to consider.
In regards to this topic and sensor faults etc
Along with the obvious things such as sensor location, making sure to minimise the chances of condensation (H2O) contamination, and creating thermal shock on the sensor itself,  the main contributing factor to most wideband reading issues is covered by a number of words, all with the same basic meaning!
These words that follow, are counterfeit, copy, forged, knock-off, etc.
My write-up here is focused on counterfeit sensors.
Unless using a Thunder or Fury with direct termination and you are using some form of wideband controller using an analog volt output to a dedicated analog volt input on your ECU, make sure this is set up correctly and there are no earth looping issues, etc.
Also if using a CAN BUS wideband unit of any brand that it is also configured correctly.
Also remembering the price, if these are cheap then they are as they say too good to be true, and probably not genuine.
I have had several discussions with Bosch over this very topic.
You see, our friends that are pretty much experts at copying just about everything are making it damn near impossible in some circumstances to identify the real fantastic BOSCH product from the fake, these days.
So I shall offer a few examples for you to keep an eye out for when you next wish to part with your hard-earned dollars and purchase a true BOSCH WIDEBAND OXYGEN SENSOR.
Firstly is the packaging.
If it's in the old yellow box with red writing there is a fair chance it is a fake, unless it is covered in cobwebs and dust and is old stock.
The packaging should be in a dark blue box with white diagonal banding with the BOSCH name in red capital letters and a grey Bosch logo before the name. 
The box also has images of starter motors, sparkplugs, pulleys, oil filters, batteries, and other automotive parts on it.
However, sadly they have even caught onto this and upgraded the box colours and other details.
At the top end of the box, the end that you would normally open the box at,  it has a sticker with a QR CODE, this is nothing for us however there is a silver HOLOGRAPHIC type part on the sticker with an Alpha-Numeric code which once again means nothing to us but acts as another indication of genuine packaging.
Now don't be alarmed if you have all of this showing true but you find it says on the sensor or the packaging, MADE IN MEXICO,
Yes, believe it or not, BOSCH has a manufacturing factory in MEXICO.
My contact at Bosch Australia has been there and toured the facility.
So remember the part can be made in Germany or Mexico.
Now to the sensor itself.
Anyone can copy a part number and logo with the required details and brand or mark the product with the correct equipment.
However, the genuine Bosch part number and details that are on the metal casing of the sensor should be laser etched and feel very smooth to the touch, copies/fakes normally have their details stamped onto the metal housing, they have like a very neat pin-punched appearance to the numbers and letters and are very easy to feel with your fingertips and even more so if you use your fingernail.
So using the trusty Bosch LSU 4.9 Motorsport sensor that we all strive to use and hope to get the real deal, the following should ring true.
Firstly there is a prefix number which is LS17025 then directly below the prefix number is the main part number of 0 258 017 025.
Then the BAR CODE NUMBER should be 3 165 143 521519  this should mean it is a Bosch LSU 4.9 with a 1-meter lead connected to the sensor itself, with its 6-pin connector block attached with 5 wires.
Then the other giveaway to a fake is the price.
A lot of online stores and suppliers are selling these sensors cheaper than people in the trade can even get them for so that's saying something.
One other thing also, is if you are running a LINK FURY or THUNDER and turn the WIDEBAND FUNCTION to ON WHEN STALLED for cold start tuning, remember to turn it back off as having it on and running extremely hot without the engine running tends to damage them also.
If running an after-market wideband meter kit, it would pay to question the manufacturer if they have allowed for any sensor heater control strategies for cold start or even warm restart as far as when the sensor uses the heater circuit or if it even has one.
A couple of other points, obvious but I will mention, never drop the sensor at all, especially hot.
Be careful not to crush the sensor body on removal or reinstallation especially if using the open end of a spanner.
I hope this may be of some use to somebody.
Regards
Dave.
 
 

Hi all,
these will be available also in the next few weeks.
Will work with LINK and ViPEC products
I forgot to mention the unit also has a spare analogue volt input so for example you cold add another temp sensor or connect a wideband AFR signal into it and have that also transmitted via CAN BUS to your ecu etc.
Regards
Dave.
 

CAN EGT-8_Manual.pdf

Seems to work ok for me.  Did you powercycle the ECU after having the iVTS connected?
Here is me testing it on a vipec just now:  https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPqxc73n7Vk2cV3beG?e=NgmTrC

you should contact the realdash developer to get it addressed, you can find the datastream layout in the link help file under "Technical Terms and Reference > Communications" where it states DI1 through DI6 speed streams are transmitted in KPH.  Gear position is also sent in the stream so it's up to the developer to get it sorted, not Link Support

Hi,
to put things into an easier perspective, if you use MGP as your axis you will have true Barometric compensation, if you just use MAP the baro comp will not be applied and you may have mixture issues at altitude.
Regards
Dave.

Hi everyone,
I do a lot of Skylines and Nissan's in general.
Below is a list of the most common things I find with timing issues and software settings when setting up Nissan timing,
1. Always remove the coil and fit a HT lead from the coil to the sparkplug. (DON'T USE THE TIMING LOOP AT THE REAR OF THE CYLINDER HEAD).
2. Don't use dial back style timing lights.
3.Nissan coils have a very high failure rate and or misfire rate, sometimes due to HT spark firing from the primary/secondary winding cover to the mounting bracket that runs through the guts of them, this causes erratic timing gun firing and inaccurate readings.
4. Remember that the timing mark that is last on your left when looking at the balancer when the engine is cranking over is the TDC mark , the first to come around on your right is the most advanced mark.
Each mark represents 5 degrees.
5. I always personally move the CAS so that the 3 bolts are dead centre of the CAS adjustment slots.
6. Turn off the fuel ( set from sequential to off).
7. Calibrate triggers, always carry out the TEST ECCS first, keep cranking until a value appears in the box..
8. DONT FORGET TO TURN TEST ECCS OFF after setting.
9. Make sure battery is fully charged and start cranking, set lock timing to 10 or 15 degrees does not matter, adjust offset in the software to correct the timing, DO NOT MOVE THE CAS.
10. Turn the fuel setting back from OFF to SEQUENTIAL.
Allow engine to warm up, hold engine speed at approx. 2000 - 2500 rpm when warmed up and recheck the ignition timing with the timing lock, I normally set the lock timing value to 20 -25 degrees so the engine will rev at that rpm .
11.Once you are happy with the accuracy of your timing, perform an IGNITION DELAY test, rev the engine and adjust the delay to eliminate ignition drift.
12. On a fresh installation also check your sparkplugs are not heavily carbon fouled or wet as this will make setting your timing correctly a nightmare.
Regards
Dave.

Hi all,
I just wanted to congratulate the team at LINK on a truly stunning upgrade to their WEBSITE.
The colours and the layout etc really catch the eye.
Very pleasant to scan through the pages.
The format is very well laid out.
Also not just the WEBSITE, but the company and products in general.
I have been with LINK as a user and dealer since the conception of ViPEC and it has been sure great to be part of and also a witness to the transformation and growth of an already  great product and company to a world leader in the Electronic Fuel Injection Industry.
I have also really enjoyed working with the LINK team over all of these years and hope to continue doing so.
So congratulations LINK and very well done.
Keep going on this fantastic journey.
Regards
Dave Kriedeman
PRO TUNING.

Hi all,
I just wanted to congratulate the team at LINK on a truly stunning upgrade to their WEBSITE.
The colours and the layout etc really catch the eye.
Very pleasant to scan through the pages.
The format is very well laid out.
Also not just the WEBSITE, but the company and products in general.
I have been with LINK as a user and dealer since the conception of ViPEC and it has been sure great to be part of and also a witness to the transformation and growth of an already  great product and company to a world leader in the Electronic Fuel Injection Industry.
I have also really enjoyed working with the LINK team over all of these years and hope to continue doing so.
So congratulations LINK and very well done.
Keep going on this fantastic journey.
Regards
Dave Kriedeman
PRO TUNING.

Hi all,
I just wanted to congratulate the team at LINK on a truly stunning upgrade to their WEBSITE.
The colours and the layout etc really catch the eye.
Very pleasant to scan through the pages.
The format is very well laid out.
Also not just the WEBSITE, but the company and products in general.
I have been with LINK as a user and dealer since the conception of ViPEC and it has been sure great to be part of and also a witness to the transformation and growth of an already  great product and company to a world leader in the Electronic Fuel Injection Industry.
I have also really enjoyed working with the LINK team over all of these years and hope to continue doing so.
So congratulations LINK and very well done.
Keep going on this fantastic journey.
Regards
Dave Kriedeman
PRO TUNING.

Hi,
to put things into an easier perspective, if you use MGP as your axis you will have true Barometric compensation, if you just use MAP the baro comp will not be applied and you may have mixture issues at altitude.
Regards
Dave.

Hi lostsoul,
Just to clear things up here, in your opening question you state you have a Z32 300 ZX but you also state you are using a G4 GTS/GTR PLUG IN.
So I am a bit confused which isn't hard these days.
The 12 volt supply is ok.
There is no 8V trigger supply on the PNP.
Steve is correct the GT 101 has 3 wires ,
black with red stripe = ignition power
Black with white stripe = Trigger  1
Black = sensor ground = ECU pin 30
How have you setup your triggers.
TRIGGER SETUP SHOULD BE SET TO MULTI TOOTH MISSING.
Trigger 1 setting should be set as
HALL EFFECT
FILTER 1
TRIGGER EDGE FALLING
PULL UP ON
MULTI TOOTH POSITION = CRANK
TOOTH COUNT = 24
MISSING TEETH = 1
TRIGGER 2
OPTICAL / HALL
FILTER = 1
PULL UP = ON
TRIGGER EDGE = FALLING
SYNC MODE = CAM PULSE 1
Make sure the GT 101 has an air gap of approx. 0.040' or 1 mm.
You will need to turn the fuel off or disconnect the injectors so the engine doesn't try to start.
I never use the timing loop at the rear of the ignition loom, I always fit a HT plug lead from the coil to number 1 plug for the most accurate timing setup.
You need to activate CALIBRATE TRIGGERS,
Set the timing to 15 degrees, as this is standard timing, but use any value you wish.
Adjust the TRIGGER OFFSET UNTIL YOU MATCH THE TARGET TIMING VALUE.
You will then need to hit the F12 Key to bring up RUN TIME VALUES
Watch the TRIGGER / LIMITS TAB  and check it says
TRIGGER 1 YES (GREEN)
TRIGGER 2 YES (GREEN)
And you have a valid rpm signal.
As stated you do not want the the trigger 1 and 2 edges to occur at the same time.
Regards
Dave.
 
 
 

Hi everyone,
I just want to let everyone know for TECH SUPPORT you can use the following email addresses.
Link tech support team email address is available during business hours Monday to Friday and some after hours support from Scott.
[email protected]
I also offer tech support, I DO NOT WORK for LINK however offer my assistance 7 days a week including some strange hours when I am awake.
I can be emailed at [email protected]
Please feel free to use these resources as we are here to help.
Thanks for using LINK.
Regards
Dave.
 

Hi Dave,
It takes a bit of time for a update to be approved through the Microsoft store system, if you email the team at Realdash they may be able to give you an idea of when the next version is going to be publicly available which will include the fix for the lag.
Cheers,
Mark

Hi all,
a very big hurdle as far as the use of the very much preferred NTK sensor is simply the availability of the information as far as the software and the code to write the software to the NTK control chip.
This information is simply not available to who ever asks for it making it virtually impossible to write to the hardware chip that the NTK sensor is controlled with.
I have used lots of different brands of wideband meters for many many years and have had my share of sensor failures, mine are more so just plain worn out, use of leaded fuels such as avgas, 
Excessively rich mixtures on a hot sensor that destroys them as they get cold shock when very hot.
Dropping them, melted wires, and the biggest one the unknown, loan it out , used to work, get it back doesn't work anymore.
Letting the battery run flat with the sensor hooked up.
Lots of things will destroy these sensors and or shorten there life span, incorrect angle in exhaust allowing H2O to come into contact with the heated element causing failure.
As we all know H2O is a by product of the combustion process and can not be eliminated.
So unless you have millions of dollars to get the chips coded and a full reconfiguration of the main ECU or another CAN MODULE i doubt we will see much happen here.
The best advice i can offer is to avoid the above mentioned sensor killers.
Calibrate your meter regulary, avoid over rich mixtures.
Poor tuning of engines that cruise at 11:1 instead of stoich or a little leaner if possible will save the sensor life also.
Also in this day and age, is that really a genuine, LSU 4.2 or LSU 4.9 sensor.
The other issue is if the sensor is connected to a controller then an analogue output voltage from the module to the ECU is not of high standard, the sensor may be fine and the meter is the culprit.
And this is where we come full circle back to the Innovate LM-1 with no analogue volt output earth/sensor ground.
Earth looping.
This issue was big enough for Innovate many many years ago to design and build a GIA, GROUND ISOLATION AMPLIFIER to stop ground loop feed back effecting readings.
There are wideband meters on the market running NTK sensors, with the intellect (i definatly don't have it) 
and the ability to buy the chips,maybe the code could be reverse engineered to get the base code to program the chip, who knows.
Anyway just my long 2 cents worth.
Regards
Dave.
P.S BY THE WAY DAMIEN KING THIS IS YOURS HA HA HA HA, SHOULD BE THERE SOON.

Hi everyone,
Well the FORUM pages certainly look a bit prettier than before.
I am still alive and still having good and bad days.
However on my good days i still try to support LINK/ViPEC customers and do a little tuning.
I also spend some time configuring and sorting issues for customers and friends.
Not sure if this has already been sorted but i have decided to make the post anyway due to sorting the issue testing and proving it works on Friday just past.
CAN BUS settings for both G4+/iSERIES ECU and MoTeC C SERIES COLOUR DASHES.
Please find attached sample PCL for G4+ using a FURY and MoTeC comms config files etc for C Series colour dashes.
Any issues please advise.
Special thanks to my friend Mohammed from PCG (Pro Car Garage) in Saudi Arabia for testing my files as i had no dash to test on.
Simon and Adam if already done please delete.
This has been tested and is all working perfectly, there are a lot of parameters in my template, still room for a lot more to be added.
Regards
Dave.
 
LINK G4+ with MoTeC C125 ETC_CANBUS CONFIG..c125v60
LINK G4+_ MoTeC C125 DASH ETC.CC8
G4+ Fury_ MoTeC C125 SERIES DASH CAN BUS CONFIG.pclr

Hi everyone,
Well the FORUM pages certainly look a bit prettier than before.
I am still alive and still having good and bad days.
However on my good days i still try to support LINK/ViPEC customers and do a little tuning.
I also spend some time configuring and sorting issues for customers and friends.
Not sure if this has already been sorted but i have decided to make the post anyway due to sorting the issue testing and proving it works on Friday just past.
CAN BUS settings for both G4+/iSERIES ECU and MoTeC C SERIES COLOUR DASHES.
Please find attached sample PCL for G4+ using a FURY and MoTeC comms config files etc for C Series colour dashes.
Any issues please advise.
Special thanks to my friend Mohammed from PCG (Pro Car Garage) in Saudi Arabia for testing my files as i had no dash to test on.
Simon and Adam if already done please delete.
This has been tested and is all working perfectly, there are a lot of parameters in my template, still room for a lot more to be added.
Regards
Dave.
 
LINK G4+ with MoTeC C125 ETC_CANBUS CONFIG..c125v60
LINK G4+_ MoTeC C125 DASH ETC.CC8
G4+ Fury_ MoTeC C125 SERIES DASH CAN BUS CONFIG.pclr

Hi turbodailydan,
is this the same ECU and vehicle you are having the MAP sensor issues on.
Blowing black smoke running super rich etc.
If so then this is your problem, these engines have a very weak vacuum signal from what little plenum/vacuum chamber they have behind the throttle blades.
If you have your fuel table set to MAP on they axis it will read very close to 100 kpa at idle, this will make the ecu think it is under load and therefore run on the 100 kpa fuel row, causing excessively rich mixtures.
Most people make the mistake of hooking up the MAP sensor hose the  FPR hose port with a T piece.
I have even seen one setup where the inlet plenum was drilled into and had a vacuum hose barb fitted, this will only read boost as the vacuum signal comes from behind the butterflies.
I have attached 2 screen shot of how to set up a multi throttle low vacuum sourced engine.
1. is a basic set up
2. Is a more advanced set up incorporating a 4D fuel table that in boost is tuned as an extra % on top of the fuel cell number in the main fuel table which uses TPS as it's load reference .
This table will only allow an extra 60% of fuel to your table.
If you find this is not enough,you can adjust the FUEL MASTER VALUE or if you have a good fuel pump with plenty of flow crank the fuel pressure up.
See how you go.
TAKE NOTE VALUES IN THESE SCREEN SHOTS ARE PURELY FOR DEMONSTRATION PURPOSES, THEY ARE NOT INTENDED FOR DIRECT USE FOR ANY VEHICLE.
Regards
Dave.

Hi all,
these will be available also in the next few weeks.
Will work with LINK and ViPEC products
I forgot to mention the unit also has a spare analogue volt input so for example you cold add another temp sensor or connect a wideband AFR signal into it and have that also transmitted via CAN BUS to your ecu etc.
Regards
Dave.
 

CAN EGT-8_Manual.pdf

Hi,
I haven't forgot about this project.
I have been very unwell with extreme pain for the last couple of weeks.
I am on large doses of very powerful pain medication, so my brain doesn't work correctly while under the influence and it makes me sleep a lot.
I have just come back from the doctors again for different medication again, tonight.
I have been working on the PCL file for this along with a few other jobs.
I needed to know how much boost he wants to run for many reasons, boost cuts, boost control target tables etc, working out what his final fuel pressure will be with static pressure plus full boost pressure etc.
Spanning the Y axis on Fuel and Ignition tables and any other tables that will be MAP,MGP etc based AXIS.
The more information I can gather the easier it is to set things up.
Setting up PCL files for cars that aren't in front of you is quite difficult hence for the many questions.
Yes , you are all correct, I DO NOT WORK FOR ViPEC.
I enjoy helping others where possible.
When I first started I could only ask a random question here or there, I didn't have the luxury of FORUMS or the Internet for help.
99% of what I know I have taught myself through testing , reading and studying etc.
It is something you never stop learning.
I have been doing this stuff for close to 20 years and there is still so much more to learn, I had many frustrating times trying to sort out issues etc.
This is why I try to HELP where possible.
I also strongly believe in the product and love it's capabilities.
Sure there maybe some things people wish for that aren't possible in earlier versions etc.
But for a very fairly priced ECU it sure is loaded with some very impressive features.
There are also many ways to control devices under certain operating conditions etc.
So by getting involved and helping those out seeking help, I in return learn as well.
No one has ever done everything.
So having a go at everything that crosses your path will expand your knowledge base 10 fold.
So in the process of helping you, at times I am learning also.
That is what this FORUM is about, NO BULL$%@T, just cold hard facts and many suggestions to help you all in the long run.
Regards
Dave.

Hi Shadow,
firstly looking at your data logs etc, you need to setup the properties of anything to do with your MAP sensor as a min and maximum setting.
Right click on the data log page or anywhere that the AEM MAP sensor data will be displayed such as a value list etc.
You need to set the MAP parameter up as MANUAL not AUTOMATIC.
Set your MINIMUM value to - 15 and your MAXIMUM to 60.
To change the output reading of a gauge such as LAMBDA to AFR, you need to go to the OPTIONS tab at the top of the page,
Go to the UNITS page and you will have METRIC, IMPERIAL or OPTIONS.
Select options and in both the Metric and Imperial setup tabs, select AFR instead of Lambda.
Or if you press the "U" key on any page it will convert the displays from METRIC to IMPERIAL and vice versa.
Also check your Target AFR /Lambda table as you have started it at 2.9 psi positive pressure with target values of14.7 all the way up to 10.2 psi positive pressure.
You need to rescale you Y axis back to -ve values also, otherwise your AFR is dangerously lean.
I had surgery yesterday and I am in a lot of pain, but I am going to run your PCL up on my i88 and simulator to test the boost gauge setup and outputs etc.
As for it running very rich, firstly you need to confirm what manifold vacuum or PSI, MGP, MGP PSI your MAIN FUEL TABLE is running at.
What value is the Y axis and how many rpm is the engine idling at.
Have you carried out a TPS and MAP sensor calibration and pressed F4 to save these values to the ECU.
As for the idle speed, until you get the idle mixtures etc under control I wouldn't bother with that at all.
However you can try adjusting the IDLE BASE POSITION TABLE values to start with.
I will create PCL file for you to try with your injectors etc setup.
Give me some time however, on lots of pain killers so I am a little slow today.
Regards
Dave.