Dave Kriedeman

Hi KD,
You require a factory ECU pin out and engine schematic diagram to do this.
Below is some parameter settings for your engine from the HELP files.
Regards
Dave.

Hi amvegeta,
Sorry forgot to follow up and redo for you.
Please find attached HOPEFULLY a screen shot of how to setup Dual Fuel, Dual Ignition, Dual Boost.
Regards
Dave.

Hi Rbmadhead,
FIRSTLY NOT A DOUBLE POST, AS I WAS TYPING MY REPLY SIMON ANSWERED YOU ALSO.
So you are referring to resigning the factory CAS and using standalone crank trigger and cam sensor.
The choice of triggers is up to you.
Mag reluctor type sensors are easier to wire (2 wires) one wire the positive goes to Trigger 1 ECU PIN A8 if it is the crank trigger and the other to sensor ground / shielded ECU PIN A 7
The same for the CAM sensor.
Positive goes to ECU PIN A9 and negative to ECU PIN A7.
If you choose HALL EFFECT SENSORS such as GT101's then the positive to the sensor should come from ECU PIN A6 8volt output.
This wire will be BLK/RED = 8 VOLT PIN A6
BLK/WH = TRIGGER SIGNAL = ECU PIN A8 if crank , ECU PIN A9 if CAM.
BLK = SENSOR GROUND = ECU PIN A7
I personally prefer MAGNETIC RELUCTOR TYPE SENSORS.
So that is just the sensor side.
Then you have trigger wheels and cam trigger lug to worry about.
Has your CAS died or are you simply wanting more accurate trigger inputs.
You also have the option of removing the 360 x1 and 6 x 60 trigger disc and fitting a 6 x 60 and single sync chopper disc for the factory CAS for high rpm use.
Google RB 26 CRANK TRIGGER KITS, I am sure there are a few around and one is made by a Harmonic balancer company Ross or the likes.
Regards
Dave.
Simon,
you answered while I was typing, ha ha, what are you doing up early.
The lil man didn't sleep again I take it.
Regards
Dave
 

Hi dave32gtr,
you will only have the ability to input the injector cc's if you choose MODELLED FUEL EQUATION or MODELLED MULTI FUEL.
If you have your FUEL MAIN FUEL EQUATION setup as TRADITTIONAL, you don't have the option to insert the precise injector data.
You should try to use the MODELLED fuel equation when being tuned, however the Traditional setting has been left to make for easier starting and tuning.
Regards
Dave
 

Hi Rob W,
to be able to insert the injector cc's and a lot more fuel related and engine capacity data you need to select, Modelled or Modelled - Multi Fuel, instead of Traditional.
This is found under the Fuel Main Tab.
If you select these other 2 options you will find injector cc's under Injector setup and engine capacity under the Fuel Main Tab.
Regards
Dave.

Hi PRO CAR GARAGE,
If you could be more precise on exactly what parameters you wish for the rev limiter to work I could set it up exactly.
I have attached a sample of how to setup a basic GP REV LIMITER 2.
Regards
Dave.

Hi driftkids,
with the MAP sensor reading, with the engine not running the map will read 100 Kpa as this is equivalent to atmospheric pressure, ( 1 Bar or 14.5 psi ).
So if 100 Kpa equals 14.5 psi/1 bar atmospheric pressure , then 200 Kpa '''''''(ABSOLUTE)'''''' equals 14.5 psi/1 bar of positive pressure ABOVE ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE.
Look at the Baro pressure when the engine isn't running for a more exact reading of the barometric pressure.
If you set your axis up as MGP (Manifold Guage Pressure) your 100 will be replaced with 0 and 1 bar will equal 100 Kpa, (14.5 psi), if this makes things easier for you.
If you do use MGP as your Y axis on the fuel table, this will also allow for Barometric compensation.
Just a side note also,
With the fuel Y axis set to MGP your vacuum area of the fuel table will read in negative values.
Hope this helps
Regards
Dave.

Hi Armin,
I am pretty sure that ViPEC/LINK have done work with the KMS CAN products.
So running these devices shouldn't be a problem.
A reply from Simon or Scott would be needed here, I am only giving you second hand info.
Regards
Dave.

Hi all..
Building this engine for fun & learning
LinkG4 Plug In EVOLink (I-III) & HP Stream 7 tablet for gauges display

Hi now i am a happy man the car running ok it is a 32-2 trigger wheel
Regards Goran

Hi Ducie54,
That's because you got to many things going on that little beast of yours ha ha.
Noted for LINK techs.
Regards
Dave
 

Hi Havy,
you could use the base map settings for the plug and play, simply make both your MAP and the base file MAP fuel and ignition tables have the same X and Y axis settings, and then copy and paste the fuel and ignition tables from the demo file to your MAP.
You will just have to setup all of your Analogue volt and temp inputs, digital inputs etc how you have wired them on your ecu and ignore the plugins settings.
You will still require a timing light and a WIDEBAND AFR meter to get the engine running well, a timing light at least.
Regards
Dave.

Simon,
get back to bed, your too sick to be on here
Regards
Dave.

Hi Richard,
Sorry,
Simon is away for the week.
He will be able to help you with this request, they will be hiding somewhere,
There is still a few little items left to complete the new FORUMS.
Regards
Dave.

Hi muzzytt,
yes you can use that switch, just remember the AUX output will switch low, negative so the positive needs to be connected to a 12 volt ignition fed source.
If the dash light is negatively switched then yes you can wire directly to that with the AUX O/P.
If any of these devices need power then use the AUX O/P to switch a relay to supply 12 volts.
If you set the Aux O/P as GP PWM you can also create a table with PWM values and create a FLASHING LED at varying frequencies, i do this with my SHIFT LIGHT SETUPS NORMALLY.
Regards
Dave.

Yup, this was really a pain in the arse..

Hi Michael,
sorry for misleading info.
For some reason I thought you wanted to run 2 different CAN devices that needed to operate on separate channels, luckily SIMON is on the job.
Regards
Dave.

We are hoping to have a CAN Vnet module soon once we have this we will do up a set of instructions which should make it all easier.
 

Excellent, just trying to give back to the community as I work in IT.  Hopefully that compensates for some newbie Q's

Hi muzzytt,
as for the LAMBDA vs AFR simply press the U key for UNIT'S change, however this will also change all other values to either psi , deg f mph, etc etc,
Or you can go to the top of the screen and select the OPTIONS tab, then go down to UNITS, then select options again and change the METRIC from LAMBDA to AFR.
Regards
Dave.

Hi Peter,
I don't know if Simon's email address has changed or not it was [email protected]  or [email protected] you can PM him or
you can send it to myself  [email protected] .
Either way Simon will get it.
 I can run the file on my simulator and test for you if you wish also and can guarantee strict confidentiality.
Regards
Dave.

Hi,
Variable valve timing really needs to be tuned on the dyno, it is the only way to truly know if you are going forwards or back wards.
When making changes to the target tables go in steps of 5 degrees at a time, once you see your torque drop off you, then decrease the value by 1 degree at a time until you hit the sweet spot.
You must make sure that your engine is also a free running motor, meaning that if you advance the cam timing too much that you have no piston / valve contact.
Regards
Dave.

Hi Scraggles,
love the name.
Please go to the HELP in the ViPEC software as per my screen shot, select the topic you wish to know about.
Any further information required please ask here.
Regards
Dave.

Hi all,
Just wanted to let you know that there is a new software/firmware release for G4+ and iSERIES
Please find short cut here http://www.linkecu.com/app/site/media/sitemedia.nl/id.26936/.f
As usual please read release notes after install and check all parameter settings etc for anychanges that may have taken place with upgrade.
Regards
Dave.