FIS

This is how normalised mode works. 
With normalised mode the ecu is comparing the noise level of the current combustion event to the previous few "learnt" combustion events.  If you are operating under reasonably stable conditions then suddenly increase load or RPM, then the first few combustion events at that new higher load will now be generating more noise than the previous events it is comparing to.  So to account for this, when there is a sudden change in load or RPM (this is determined by the RPM/MAP/TPS delta level settings, then the threshold is increased by the "Threshold gain" for the number of cycles set in "Delta hold".   
With normalised mode you would usually have a "flat" threshold table, and the threshold should only need to step up for a short time when there is a significant change in load or RPM.  You should not need to increase threshold with RPM or boost like your threshold table is, this suggests something is not right in the setup or possibly mechanical.  I notice you have a 2.5L whereas our car was a 2.0 so possibly the knock frequency is not ideal.  You could try it at 6,7 and say 13Khz to see if the noise levels look less erratic.  Your ignition advance is quite low so I doubt there is knock, but it is a little odd that your cyl 4 knock level is mostly the one that is erratic.  
A quirk I found in our subaru was the sharp click from the AC clutch turning on/off in auto mode would cause a spike in knock level, I got around this by disabling knock for a few tenths of a second before the clutch switched on of off.  I see that has caused 1 spike in your log but it is not your main issue, just something to keep in mind if you start seeing random spikes or retard.  

Yeah, probably wont work well if you are doing PWM due to small timing differences but normal on/off will be ok.  

With help from adam I was able to setup CAN communication to the Lotus factory dash, the dash in question is refered to as the white face dash and is used in the 2zz powered Elise and Exige circa 2007.
The following can be communicated to the dash
Speedo
Engine speed RPM
Fuel tank level
Coolant Temperature
CE Light
TC Light
Oil Pressure light
Shift Light
Provided you have wired in your CAN 2 into the chassis CAN circuit you will just need to configure the following
Bit Rate 1mb
wheel speed Start position 0 width 8
Engine speed Start position 16 width 16
Fuel Level Start position 32 width 8
Coolant Temp Start position 40 width 8 offset 17
CE Light Start position 54 width 1
TC Light Start position 52 width 1
Oil Pressure Light Start position 53 width 1
Shift Light Start position 55 width 1
The math block settings I used for the fuel level sender and coolant temp are as follows;
Fuel tank level Equation (a/5*100*2.8) 
Coolant temp Equation (a*9/5)+32

File attached.  The RPM limit and most other dash lights are controlled by the virtual auxiliaries.  The map has the RPM limit lights change based on engine temp as they did originally.  Coolant, oil press and CE lights are also on the virtual auxes.
E46 S54 startup with CAN.pclr

Try attached, I have done this for someone previously so only tested some of it.  This will give you the 4 wheel speeds, power steer should work as well as speedo, tacho & temp gauge.
rx8 with CAN.pclr

This guy has a really good process on how to observe and reverse engineer canbus signals
http://bobodyne.com/web-docs/robots/MINI/CAN/MINI_CAN.pdf
His example use a mini but the process applies to everything. Its basically push the car through some known states eg press gas pedal, speed up, slwo down, turn steering wheel. Graph the output of each stream of data coming across the can bus, then try to map what you did to something you can see happening on the canbus.
I've done this myself on a subaru using one of these
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Dual-Channel-USB-To-CAN-Analyzer-DeviceNET-iCAN-VRMS-CANOpen-J19339-CAN-Analyzer/32359550686.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.1.TSYAka&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10152_10065_10151_10344_10068_10345_10342_10547_10343_10340_10341_10548_10541_10084_10083_10560_10307_10175_10060_10155_10154_10056_10055_10539_10537_10312_10536_10059_10313_10314_10534_10533_100031_10103_10073_10102_10557_10142_10107,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=c137e58f-7221-4cd6-8e73-88f833c9f482&algo_expid=3d31339c-5443-452b-a5c7-85399dba71d8-0&algo_pvid=3d31339c-5443-452b-a5c7-85399dba71d8
It looks really daunting to start with as literally nothing has labels, but as soon as you get your head around which devices are which ID's you can start to focus on things that matter - eg tacho signal has to come the ecu, speed has to come from the abs computer (check wiring diagrams but this is usually true) so you have a pretty good idea where to look, graph each block of data, then look for a graph pattern that matches what you did with the vehicle, then work out the scale of it. You may want to start by watching the ID's that are present and the time intervals of them and disconnecting abs/ecu/body control computer/etc to start with as the first step. Remember you dont have to understand all of it, just the signals you are sending from the ecu or receiving via canbus (eg speed)

I can give you some very basic info.  
You will need a Thunder for the two throttles.
The throttle motors need to be modified to bypass the CAN bus module, so the ECU connects to the internal motor connections directly.
The coils need to be wired in wasted spark pairs.
You need to fit a two wire idle valve or build a small circuit to allow the 3 wire valve to be controlled by a single aux output (contact Link tech support for this circuit).
Aux output and DI set up for the Vanos is as per the S65B40 set up info in the help file.
 
 

No, I dont see any way you will be able to get a DC servo motor to control idle air with our ECU.  Most engines I do are ITB and I dont bother with any idle valve.  Typically you can get pretty decent idle control just using ignition only.  Set it up so normal warm idle uses quite retarded ignition (say about 0), that means the throttle blade needs to be set open quite a way to achieve a normal idle speed.  Set up the idle ignition table with ECT on one axis so that when its cold it runs about 20deg more timing than when hot.  Thats usually enough to get it to cold idle own its own with no driver input.

Hi Mark,
I suspect the problem is your oil temp sensor being on a AV input is not actually assigned to the "oil temp" parameter but rather a "GP Temp" parameter that is not sent in the standard generic dash stream.  Attached below is a configurable version of the generic dash stream where I have replaced "oil temp" with AN 8 - Oil temp.
MarkHellier.lcs
 
For any others that want it I will also attach an un-modified configurable generic dash stream.
Configurable Generic Stream.lcs

The idle valve remains active at all times, this is normal otherwise you would feel it switch on/off during normal driving.  
With an NA engine you can have one side of the valve vented to atmosphere but in a turbo application the valve should be connected to the manifold on one side and the turbo pipework on the other so both sides of the valve are exposed to a similar pressure under boost.

Its the same trigger pattern.
Im running two cars with this engine S65B40 and Link Extreme.

Hi everyone,
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