Apex Speed Tech

Hey guys, I'm not getting anywhere with this UTC. I followed these directions exactly, all I get is the Lambda1 value flickering occasionally from 0 to 6550 and back. Any ideas? Its a brand new LTC from MOTEC, a brand new AtomX from Link. Checked wiring, there are term resistors at both ends, nothing else on the bus, its at 55ohms.

Also could the 9.4V under cranking compound the issue? I have plenty of cars that crank around 10V but you have to be diligent with your dwell & inj battery offset settings.....

Thanks Adam. It was rock solid once we fixed the intake leak and re-sync'd the throttle bodies, I probably ran the car for another 30 min like that. They do share power with a 3 wire IAC value, but the controllers are conveniently mounted right next to the battery. So I'll just add a relay and fuse directly to the battery and use the existing +12V that's shared with the IAC on the term 85 side, with the term 86 side to ground. See any issues with that? Cheers, Neel

Nope, even easier. The car has individual throttle bodies with idle bleeds going to a common manifold. The mechanic who assembled everything left a large (8mm) vacuum port open under bank 1 which caused a huge leak, which he compensated for by adjusting the blades so one bank was completely sealed off while the other was drawing air through the leak. That bank was getting so much air the car still idled at 1500 RPM with 0 degrees of timing only running on 1/2 its cylinders. I got thrown off because I didn't realize the lambda heaters needed exhaust temp to help them get to 780 before they'd time out. Either way I learned something today: A non-firing bank on Link won't just read "off the scale lean" but will not allow the heater to reach temp in time. Cheers, Neel

My turn to ask a question! Edit: figured it out, see the reply below. In short, Link's working fine, but still learned something today! On this new installation with a G2 Xtreme and twin CAN-Lambdas, Lambda worked for a full 5 minutes, they stopped reporting and started throwing up errors. Here's the situation. Voltage across Power and Ground on CAN-Lambda devices: Solid 13V+ at all times. No CAN bus errors. Bus resistance is 70ohm with a 120ohm resistor at each end. Seems a bit high - I would expect closer to 60 but again no errors. On both Lambda 1 and Lambda 2, I get alternating 16 "Heated too long" and 33 "Open Circuit APE-IPE" errors. While error 16 is present, both report roughly 500C sensor temps (I understand they should run about 780) which climb and then fail. Sensor are mounted properly; pointed down vertically. Sensors and Lambda/CAN devices are brand new from Link, ordered in the last 2 months, never used before. The motor has probably run with the sensors in it for 20 minutes. Current ECU firmware information ----------------------- ECU firmware version : 5.6.6.3602 Bootcode Version : 1.9 Board S/N : 53842 ECU type : 12 Can-Lambdas are PCB Rev 1.2 UPDATE: Upgraded firmware to 5.6.7, same issues. Update 2: for no apparent reason they both got to 780 finally, but Lambda 1 is.... wack: Ideas? Log file attached Thanks, Neel apex speed technology lambda issue 9146.llg

I've had to do this a few times when adapting other harnesses to a Link ECU, and I've not had issues. As they say, your mileage my vary.....

Relays, coils and backfeeding can send you down a wormhole of trying to diagnose things with a volt meter. When there's no load on these outputs, when they're open circuit, there are many things that can make for odd voltage readings. Let's forget about your voltages for a second. Simple test: Pull the wire going to Aux 6 (pin 26) out of the Monsoon ECU connector, then with everything powered up as normal, ground that wire to the chassis. Does the fuel pump operate as normal? Then disconnect that wire at the relay (in Bosch speak, terminal 86) and reconnect it at Pin 26. Put your volt meter on the wire from Aux 6 (no longer connected to the relay) and the other side at the relay input 12V (in Bosch Speak, terminal 30) then power cycle the ECU. Does the voltage go to VBATT for the duration that the prime is on? If so, it would seem to me that the ECU is working properly and the problem is somewhere with your relay or wiring. -Neel Vasavada apex speed technology @apexspeedtech

Happy to help, gives me something to do during this quarantine. And Adam, thanks for letting me play "tech support dude" in your sandbox! -Neel

I'm not sure where you're from brother, but where i am from an appropriate response might be: Does a bear shit in the woods? In my opinion Timing calibration and setup is one of the MOST important parts of setting up a new ECU. I always run through the basic calibration procedure, even if its a plug in, even if I have a base map. If I'm tuning a car setup by someone else, at the first sign of something being amiss, I check this. I'd recommend you read the "Wiring Information > First Time Setup > Trigger Calibration" section of the Link Help file. Try and understand the Trigger Setup, Trigger Offset and using the Trigger Scope functions, and then feel free to ask questions. Since you have a base map that should match your trigger setup, you might want to post a "trigger scope capture" for us to make sure the polarity is correct. Also make sure your injectors and ignitions are wired up in cylinder number order, not firing order. Use the injector test and ignition test functions to verify this. Cheers, Neel Vasavada Apex Speed Technology

Your battery voltage is only 10.3V under cranking, can we do better? I've had plenty a car which showed a big voltage drop under cranking even though the starter motor itself ran fine. I might suggest, if you can't improve this with a booster of some sort, temporarily power the ECU off an external battery, just to see. Have you confirmed with a light or a scope you're getting an injector pulse? Because according to this data, it sure looks likes its commanding the outputs, though I could be missing something. -Neel

That's 90 minutes of an ECU logging with the engine off. Got a dataset with you cranking or something? I don't see anything too obvious in your map, though for good measure I'd set Chassis and Body/Anti Theft/Allow CAN Anti-Theft Request to OFF.

Sorry, I don't have the documentation for that project anymore, but I don't remember it being particularly challenging. If you want to start with the Link documentation and post questions here, I'm happy to try and help! Cheers, Neel

We did a Charger with a new 5.7 in 2013 with a Vi-Pec, was a pretty car. From what I recall the software didn't support any alternator control yet but we got it going with an open loop PWM table just fine. Wish I had a better picture.

Yep, double that request. There's likely a parameter causing a commanded cut and it should be easy enough to sort out.

I can concur with Adam, I didn't check before but the datasheets I found for the 0261230340 match the temp cal for the 026. For a Bosch 026 sensor, 1 ohm is between 120 and 130C. Are you reading those values across the sensor not plugged into anything? http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/content/downloads/Raceparts/Resources/pdf/Data sheet_70101387_Temperature_Sensor_NTC_M12.pdf Where is your dash reading from?