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Mike928

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  1. Will do Adam but I have no coolant in it at the moment, so it will not be at NOT.
  2. Thanks Laminar, I hadn't actually filled in all of the throttle table over 3000rpm because I wanted the revs to stay low until I proved a few things on a new motor. It's now much 'tamer' to work with. I ramped it up to 1:1 at 50% pedal.
  3. Ok Adam, fixed it. #4 injector was open circuit, so a V7. Set the E-throttles closed voltages. Reduced the 'Master fuel' to 9ms and both Lambda gauges are pretty even just below 1 @ my set idle of 680RPM. Also reduced the timing to 12 degrees BTDC at idle, for some reason the timing values were very high? I'm not expecting to achieve a final tune but I would like to get it to a point where it starts without needing some AP, runs and drops back to idle without cutting out. I may have been a bit over the top with 2 x 74mm TB, for 6.5 litre because it is VERY touchy on the throttle and they are both barely open, so I'm looking at going to 2 x 64mm BMW ETBs and reducing my plenums by placing the TBs on the sides [rather than down the front] of the centre inlet manifold. this will also take about 350mm at least from the distance between TP and inlet valves.
  4. Ok Adam will do, 0.019v difference? Currently got the pedal out trying to make a suitable mounting setup. I'm more baffled as to why the Lambda is so different between bank 1-4 and 5-8. Same injectors, same coils and both have new genuine Bosch O2 sensors?
  5. Thanks in a large part to Adam, my 6.5 litre beast is running and with both E-throttles going as well. Fuel map is not right, I had to set it to 'Traditional' to get it to start. I filled in the ap:tp table and the injector dead time for my EV14 550cc/min Bosch injectors and fiddle with the master fuel but I see wild differences in the 2 O2 sensors readings [lh bank vs rh bank]. Now I've received my new timing light I've got the timing much closer than it was just by ear. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gPcQfcrPSX_hWnVRL77apEWNglClSVpx/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BACsycAwTJHbZY7wp-Efx1P0bDlx27rL/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xyhxU7_pHc_irpiwKNQWN_7hAh-5CbLw/view?usp=sharing
  6. Its hard to understand what you are talking about. That's what my wife says! Where is this troubleshooting comment coming from? web search. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UNiUZubcbd41z80VQpGdD37HXBkxBrrL/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Iz5A3Q9o-pbxecZElit1WYSKBAN5qenn/view?usp=sharing The 'stuck layout.jpg is what I couldn't get rid of, the good layout.jpg is my save layout back again, yeh ha! I just hit the escape key multiple times and the log screen disappeared leaving my layout with dogy resolution which was easily fixed. Thanks for your input Adam, much appreciated as usual.
  7. Thanks Adam, I have a saved layout and I've tried re-loading it but nothing changes. This happened once before but it righted itself before I had to get worried, hence I saved it as soon as it returned. Trouble shooting says 'click on configuration' but the menu bar is covered or gone, so no 'configuration'. Interestingly if I load my map on my laptop or my office desktop it all loads fine. I'm at the first start time [it has actually fired and run for a few seconds while testing stuff] but the 2 e-throttles still don't work! I have no dash, so I rely on PCLink to show me what's going to blow. A guy with experience with the Link Thunder in a Porsche 928 is coming over Saturday, so we'll see.
  8. I've lost my default opening screen on PC Link! I saved my 'page' a while ok but loading it doesn't help. I caused it by loading a 'log file', now the log screen won't go away, so all my default gauges and data list can't be seen. I've hunted everywhere for a method of returning to my opening screen but no luck. help please??
  9. Adam We’ve made some progress. Machined both the toothed trigger wheel and the harmonic balancer centre hub face [not the balancer bit] so it’s a firm ‘hub centric’ fit together. It just tucks in behind the belts. Made a sensor bracket from a piece of 6mm thick aluminium angle, about 140mm long and bolted both ends. It’s very solid and has a bit of gap adjustment. It’s currently at about 0.5mm air gap. As the Link ECU doesn’t care where the missing tooth is apparently, it assumes 10 BTDC but has the offset entry option to adjust to match that. I want to screw the trigger wheel to the harmonic balancer face [4 x 5mm countersunk screws] but I’d like to know the best position to place it? I’m thinking that if the crankshaft is set at 10 BTDC, I position the trigger wheel so that leading face [rising edge] of the tooth AFTER the gap [missing tooth] is at the centre of the CAS sensor, it is telling the ECU that it’s at 10 BTDC? I’d love your opinion on my thoughts. Mike https://drive.google.com/file/d/1phATjO6gQTphdG3pvFVLBYwZ2i0IEUlZ/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mDAy3F8_ujHCF0kxMc5n4jUBflAf8L93/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PcneZV3OfN5-iXeHxApZMCieDW1APWbn/view?usp=sharing
  10. Adam, I have the trigger wheel already and I've been studying up on its relationship to the CAS and in your words of wisdom on the matter, you suggest the air gap should be around 0.3mm?? I think I saw and the tooth width should be as close as possible to the sensor core. The teeth on my 180mm 36-1 wheel are 7.2mm wide,, across the top of the wheel as it passes the sensor but I can't find any data on the Link CAS. Can you shed some light on this? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FZbML0885NP885h22wOgMyns_ugVps-X/view?usp=sharing
  11. Thanks Adam, I had a complete 'brain drain'. It's so obvious actually!
  12. Are you saying that the ground pin of the Link sensor should be connected to the 'core' of the shield ground from the ECU and the signal pin to Trigger 1? I understand that shielded cable connect the shield to ground at one end only.
  13. Current sensor is top of the flywheel at the rear of the motor. New one at the front, down close to the crank. The wires could run straight down the valley and drop down, or go around the inner guard. Either way, they are going to be longer than 'a couple of hundred mm'. How should I connect shield, signal and ground to a 2 pin sensor?
  14. Adam, I have a plan. A 180mm OD trigger wheel 36-1 teeth. I need that diameter to clear the HB, any bigger and there's stuff in the way. I can mount it to the front face of the HB which is part of the hub casting not the vibration ring [there isn't much room around that]. I have 5mm clearance from the first belt and the trigger wheel is 4mm thick, so it will fit. I've ordered a Link VR sensor, 2 pin, so am I right in thinking I just have to extend the ECU trigger 1 sensor and sensor ground wires to the new Link sensor and forget the shield wire? Next will be sensor position. There are so many suggestions out there that they can't all be right. I think I need front edge of tooth [rising edge], centre of trigger on that point but what range BTDC? It seems 0-60 degrees before TC ok?
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