mmaigret

Thanks Adam. I logged a colder ambient startup tonight and noticed the unstable idle RPM during warmup again. One note is I tried to lower the idle target by 200rpm as I thought 1150 seemed higher than necessary. Also present in the log is idle hunt after engaging the clutch at speed, such as when coming to a stop. I did not notice any near stall behavior, but the idle rpm jumps from 1k up to 2k+ a few times before settling down once the car is stopped. Finally, I noticed at the end of the log that warm idle seemed Ok, but maybe not as good as I would expect; I noticed just turning the headlights on caused a noticeable temporary instability. I wouldn't think headlights would introduce significant alternator load on the engine, but maybe I'm underestimating. Sincerely appreciate all of your help thus far; please let me know what you think. -Mike tweaked idle 092520 950rpm.llg

Apologies for the delay. I tried the tune Adam provided and cold startup (80F ambient) worked much better than previously; I did not notice the violent swings in RPM as previously. I'm attaching a log. I did notice a near-stall and over-correction upon decelerating to a stop while pushing the clutch in, which I don't think is new behavior, but curious if any additional tweaks might improve this issue. Thanks! Mike tweaked idle 091920.llg

Hi Adam, Yes, please forgive me I did update PCLink and firmware recently, and did not re-export the map/tune file. Apologies for the confusion. With regard to my broader question, is it correct that I should be using the G4+ versions of the software? I noticed that there is a R53 Mini base tune available in the PCLink G4X version? I would prefer to use the G4X version if possible; however, the tunes do not appear to be compatible between the two versions of PCLink. Thanks, Mike

Thanks Adam. Dumb question, but just want to be sure. I've been using the G4+ version of PCLink and firmware---I believe I'm using the latest versions of both. Should I instead be using the G4X versions, respectively? I have a R53 Mini with MiniLink plug-in ECU. Thanks again!

I found this thread, which is very informative. I'm going to start there and see how things evolve. Thanks, Mike

Hi All, I am having two issues on cold startup, idle hunting and poor throttle performance, which seem to vary across ambient air temperatures---where the "hunting" takes a longer time to smooth out in colder weather. I'm attaching a log and tune. The log was taken on a hot day (100F ambient), and the "hunting" lasted about 30 seconds where the idle RPM swings around 1k rpm and the car nearly stalls repeatedly on the downswing. As the car warms up the idle improves dramatically at first, then slowly at it reaches temperature and switches from 0.8 lambda to 1.0 lambda target. I'm new to tuning, and inherited the tune. My initial goal is to improve this idle condition. Things I've noticed are that "swings" in idle extend beyond the high end of the idle ignition compensation table, which also seems to have fairly asymmetric settings around target. I also noticed that the idle is set to open loop, with I believe closed loop idle deactivated. Another issue, which may or may not be related, is initial drivability after cold start. The car will basic bog and/or stall if not using the throttle incredibly delicately. Once the car reaches 1.0 lambda target, similar to above, it's generally fine. I believe something is going wrong during the warm-up time (~5 min) that essentially makes the car not want to take any throttle. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike tune082620.pclr startup idle high ambient.llg

Well, a direct connection to battery/ground worked, and with further debugging was able to diagnose relay was not wired correctly. Thanks Adam!

Thanks Adam. I created a direct supply option from battery 12V to the controller. Will give it a try and report back here.

Hi Adam, Thanks for response. Yes, it previously worked OK. I changed the entire harness from the Link board-level connector to the CAN-Lambda Deutsch connector. I did not mess with the O2 sensor side at all, other than unplugging the connector temporarily. What I can't determine is did I mess up something with the rewiring, or did I compromise the hardware somehow. I'm not sure how to further debug. Do you have any suggestions? I believe I've attached the current tune file. tune082620.pclr

I recently rewired my sensors, and am now having difficulty getting CAN Lambda working again. I added an ignition-switched relay for the CAN Lambda, as well as the 22uF capacitor, but strangely now when the engine is running I am seeing the Lambda status toggle between diagnostics and calibration, before reporting error 53 controller not found!. It then repeats the cycle with status changing from initializing back to diagnostics. I'm not sure if I damaged the CAN Lambda or O2 sensor somehow during the process, but I've checked all the basics (power, ground, and the CAN setup->CAN Devices in PC-Link appears to find the device) and have not found any obvious issues. Any advice or help would be appreciated. Log file attached. Thanks, Mike lambda issues.llg