EssexStu

Good morning all, Apologies for the pretty simple question in relation to other questions on here. After wiring up and installing my V44, i opted to let the mapper do everything ECU programming wise. Im not at a stage of upgrade and about to change my sidefeed 440 injectors to 550 injectors. The mapper is ok to re-map in the future but i wanted to know is there an option within the vi-pec management to tell the ECU you have changed injectors and it automatically adjusts the map? (On my nistune on the skyline, i can simply say what injectors its running and it updates the map to suit). Need to know as about to install the injectors in the car and would ideally like to install the new ones now rather than having to re-remove the inlet manifold again in the future. Many thanks

Thanks, am still learning... that looks like it will do the trick thankie!

Hi all, wanted to check something was ok before implementing... About to wire in an additional electric water pump for additional coolant flow... I currently have the fan's wired into the normal fan speed control. While looking for the best option of wiring up the water pump, found high fan control My fan is set to come on at 90 to drop 3*C am ok turning the high speed fan on (electric water pump) at a lower temperature than this, or will the ECU not understand? ie, are the two linked or totally seperate. Was possibly putting the electric water pump on around 60 to run all the time while the engine is warm Thanks

Hi all, running a standard ford sierra instrument cluster in my sierra with v44. How do i get a pulse from the ecu to work the tacho? Does it need a relay setup to pulse it or something? Std input doesnt do anything. Many thanks

Excellent thanks :-) will try that word for word n fingers crossed have her up n running, very much appreciated :-) :-) Will report back once had a go, thanks :-)

Its the snap on, red timing light with the 5 push buttons. From the guy who owns it, taken his word that i wanted to go upto 10 on the gauge. Is that correct?? After setting up the correct firing order. Had another play tonight and with 10 deg on the software and offset at -90 Or +270 ish i can get her to successfully caugh n splutter and actually ran in a limp style for 5 to 10 seconds, but battery struggling so stopped to give that a good trickle charge. When going theu spluttering she was givin some heavier soot, eo turned down fuel pressure from 5 bar to 4 bar and played with -20% ish on the master fueling - assuming correct way to adjust fuel on first startup when no main parameters to set? Again thanks for time reading, all input welcome to help get her running finally :-) Thanks :-)

Thanks for quick reply and time to read my rather long post, you logic on the ignition definately makes sence so will swqp that over tonight, would explain the popping! With reguards to fueling, is it worth me going into negative percentage fuel to prevent over fueling the increase? Also, is my method for doing the offset timing correct? Thanks :-)

Hi all, wonder if some ones able to point out my error and allow my engine to start after many many many many many attempts with my V44 It’s a 2.9 V6 24v Ford Cosworth Engine from a 1996 Ford Scorpio (UK Car) – Engine code “BOBâ€, with two custom exhaust manifolds and turbo’s Fueling is set to Multi-Point Group, injecting cylinders 1,2 and 3 together on the RH cylinder head and cylinders 4, 5 and 6 together on the LH Cylinder head. Have witnessed these injecting correctly as removed the inlet plenum and visually watched them firing in three’s, in turn. (Injectors are upgraded to 440cc impreza side feed injectors) Crank Trigger is done by the factory sensor and the factory crank wheel 36-1 pickup, and when cranking I’m getting a good 170rpm Ignition is done by the factory standard wasted spark, 6 cylinder ford coil pack. This is wired up as so that ignition 1 does cylinders 1 and 5, ignition 2 does cylinders 2 and 6, and ignition 3 does cylinders 3 and 4. The firing order (also as per factory) is 1-4-2-5-3-6. Mechanical cam timing I’m happy with (checked numerous times prior to full assembly) and good compression (176 to 183 across the 6) Down to getting the car started. Disable fuel pump and injectors so just spark. My crank pulley has 3 markings. TDC, 10 BTDC and approx. 45 BTDC (not used that 1 yet). The timing pin from the front engine cover sits slightly left of vertical top. The crank sensor sits around 10 o’clock With the software “Lock Ignition Timing to:†set to 10.0 Degrees BTC. The timing light also set to 10. Looking at the second timing notch (just right of the TDC notch), to get the flash to line up, I enter -40 into the “Adjust Offset until Ignition Timing matches the above number:†If I also line the pin from timing cover up with the 10 BTDC, the open missing tooth is behind, and its 4 teeth around to the crank sensor (so in my head, tallies up to 4 teeth, causing the -40 figure needed?) However, turn everything on… lots of cranking and occational backfire up both exhaust and occationally intake. The closest ive had (when realllly playing with numbers) was: Locking timing to: 0, and adjust offset until ignition timing matches the number: 10. – With these settings plucked from thin air, I got a sped up crank (like when the engine is attempting to run and speeds up the cranking), however, im yet to hear a proper staged splutter / crank to fire her up… Many hours in, I know im probably missing something stupid… so please please if anyone has the time, point me in the right direction. Would love to get her running by my own fingers, in workshop If its of any help, the latest map I’ve saved was from yesterday and I have uploaded to : http://www.flashgaming360.co.uk/mr2mini/files/24vTT-june.pcl Thanking anyone who has a few minutes spare in advance. Stuart Shepherd

Not sure if BackyardBuild sorted his using Jasons advise, but i too am struggling (first time engine start attempt). Choose the set base timing option under calibrate, but no matter what figures i put in there, nothing gets saved. using a timing light, im about 12 BTDC, rather than 10, so assuming need to adjust to tell it im at 12, but cant :S Am i missing something obvious?? hope so thanks

Ahh thats handy to know thanks, i already have a spare lc-1, so might just put that in 1 bank as you suggest, run another lambda on the other bank, and maybe once its up and running and dyno'ed take the lc-1 out and run a second normal lambda on that bank to allow for the finer adjustments Sound like a plan ? Cheers

Hi all, Just at the exhaust and wiring stage of project... Have a V6 24v Cosworth with Twin Turbo setup. On this im planning on having seperate exhausts and hence will also require two lambda sensor If using quick tune, will i be able to setup two lc-1's, or is it better to run two 3 wire lambda's for custom map? Any advice/guide greatly appreciated

Ohh excellent, so i can wire up 3x 10.8ohm injectors to one inj driver, mames i Things easier and will defo be balanced then, cheers

Cheers

Hi there, sorry to dig up an old post, have been pointed here for ref, i am too having this dilema, ford originally run three injectors on 1 driver but the v44 manual says it can only handle two inj per driver, is this correct? Cheers

Hi there, just wiring up my 24v V6 Ford Engine injectors... Ive swapped them over for 440cc Impreza Injectors which are 10.8ohms (high) Originally from Factory, ford fired cylinders 1,2 and 3 together, and then 4, 5 and 6 together appreciating the v44 can handle 2 injectors per driver and has 4 drivers which is the best way to wire / set them up... Have read the manual over n over, n from what i can gather... Engine has a 36-1 crank with a single cam sensor pickup I could run Multi-Point Group Injection, and wire say cyl 1 and 2 together, and 3 on driver 2. Then 4 n 5 together on driver 3 with cyl 6 on driver 4.... Then fire driver 1 and 2 together, and then drivers 3 n 4 together ? This kind of comes under the Group Fire staged option? but not sure Any help greatly appreciated, Cheers