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JMP

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JMP last won the day on February 20

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  1. JMP

    Mixture Map

    I also use TP filters based on whatever condition I'm looking to address, varies depending on car and scenario
  2. JMP

    Mixture Map

    my understanding is Overrun Fuel cut > 0.5 will only show cells where overrun is active. I usually set mine to show Overrun Fuel Cut < 1
  3. S14 cluster is independent of the ECU, just needs tachometer feed from an Aux output of the ECU. I'd go back through the vehicle loom to find out what's been messed with to cause the cluster to not work. aftermarket gauges dont typically run through the ECU, they'll have their own senders. Trace the gauge wiring back through the car and see what's disconnected/missing in terms of loom and senders.
  4. are you pressing enter after typing the trigger offset before closing the box? If you type the number and click into the ignition delay box or even click the "done" button it wont stick. You have to type the number, press enter, then click the done button and do an ECU store (CTRL-S) before it will stick. The offset number box will turn blue after you press enter, then it's ready for you to click done and do a store
  5. to test boost solenoids, I just set the output to PWM test and listen for it clicking. Depending on how you have the solenoid plumbed, if you leave the boost control table set to zero, it will run wastegate spring pressure for boost
  6. you can follow the instructions on AIM's site for Link ECU's here: https://www.aimsports.com/download/ecu/racing/LinkG4+Series_100_eng.pdf
  7. JMP

    1uz with itb's

    personally I'd run a storm as a minimum
  8. that's a standalone display that has it's own sensors, it doesn't interface with an ECU
  9. JMP

    ECU for 1ZZ

    K's are stored on the cluster, if they're not showing there's likely a fuse blown. ECU is not needed for the heater to function
  10. JMP

    ECU for 1ZZ

    the runx only needs the factory ecu to run the water temperature guage in the dash. The speedo is independent of the ECU and the tacho can be driven directly by the link. Climate control is easiest to make work with a piggyback setup. You'll find the attached wiring diagrams are likely very close to what you have if the car is cable throttle corollaewdsupdr112w50.pdf corollaewdsupdr112w51.pdf corollaewdsupdr112w52.pdf
  11. JMP

    link dealer

    That's Godzilla Motorsport, yes they're a dealer. http://www.godzillamotorsport.com/
  12. JMP

    Weird firing order

    you're meant to wire the ignition ign1-cyl1, ign2-cyl2, ign3-cyl3, ign4-cyl4 and then set the firing order in pclink under ignition setup
  13. you want the ECU to be reading the same voltage your injectors and ignition system are receiving. In older toyota's like that I've found tarnished/hot relay and fuse contacts can cause a voltage drop, along with corroded ground points from battery to chassis and engine to chassis etc. Trace the circuits back one by one through their junction points in the chassis and you'll slowly identify the source of the drop
  14. I'd be reviewing the charge temp table for sure
  15. JMP

    Injector dead time

    probably not useful for you but as an indication I've got the following : 290cc 1zzfe injectors have a deadtime of 0.608msec at 14V 349cc 2zzge injectors have a deadtime of 0.93msec at 14V But as posted above, you can start with around 1msec at 14V and then vary the system voltage adjusting the deadtimes at each breakpoint to maintain consistent AFR. I've got a big DC power supply that I connect in place of the alternator when doing that part of the calibration
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