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Everything posted by JMP

  1. your log is full of basically the same value as far as I can see. I have noticed in the past that the logging will "hold" and sit on the last value if the screen/pc goes to sleep. What are your power management settings on the tablet?
  2. JMP

    CAN Lambda

    did you drop or knock the sensor at any stage when installing?
  3. JMP

    Question on VVTi on basemap

    not really sure why you're referencing the 1uz basemap for a 1zz... Take a powerfc 1zz vvt map and translate that across to work. In Datalogit or the hand controller, a value of 50 is equivalent to zero cam advance in the Link. So you export the powerfc vvt table to excel, then do some simple math to subtract the table value from 50, and you will have the equivalent Link advance number. The challenge will be the powerfc load values don't correlate easily, but once you see the shape of the vvt table with regard to RPM it's easy enough to get in the ballpark for a Link table.
  4. JMP

    Question on VVTi on basemap

    if you match the axis with your fuel table it will be a lot easier to get your fuel tuning right
  5. on a second look this morning, your tuner has also used both the charge temp approximation table and the IAT Fuel Trim Table, without much correlation between the two. Same with using modeled fuel mode and the warm up enrichment table is still in use as you would in a traditional fuel mode setup. whole map/config likely needs revisiting
  6. your tuner seems to like having massive steps of advance in the timing and vvt tables... Is it a pig to cruise around moving between 1500-2000rpm?
  7. the expensive option is a surface go with travel adapter for permanent power, running pclink. There are some smaller windows 10 8" tablets still available out of china
  8. yes, I've done it many times. Follow the attached guide and it will work perfectly ae86 gze tacho translated final.pdf
  9. Is your timing reading something sensible with a light? But yes, the injection mode is set to off in the file attached Also turn off the cam control mode in VVT setup, it's currently configured for a vvti engine. Your trigger filtering and arming threasholds don't match the recommended starting points for the 1uz listed in the help file
  10. yep, fixed the issue on my Surface Laptop where I didn't have the scaling set to 100 initially
  11. have you tried setting display scaling to 100%?
  12. JMP

    phil till

    As has been stated in this thread many times and in the comparison chart above from link, the Atom does NOT have knock control, if you want it the minimum spec ECU is a storm. Go download pclink from the main link website, open the atom basemap and you will see there is no "Knock Control" section. When you're done looking there, open the Storm basemap and have a browse through the knock control section On an Atom you can theoretically connect a 0-5V output from an external knock amplifier box to one of the spare analog inputs, but you can't do anything with it as there is no knock control section available in the Atom ECU
  13. JMP

    phil till

    Keep in mind that the atom isn't capable of accepting a knock sensor signal, if that is still on your "want" list of sensors, as stated earlier you'll need to go with a storm if you want knock input
  14. that transition from 1500rpm to 2000rpm in low load must feel weird on the road. On E85 I'd be throwing it on the dyno to check what your torque is doing, hard to tell otherwise. Any EGT logging?
  15. JMP

    phil till

    It doesn't matter if you have an onboard map sensor or not, you can still use the 4ag's original map sensor, just wire it to a spare AN Volt input and assign it as a map sensor in the software, then if you have an onboard map sensor, disable that in the software. In my view, the importance of knock control comes down to how prone your engine is to knock on the common locally available fuel in addition to how well it is mapped. Eg, a Subaru EJ257 is a lot more prone to knock than a 10.3:1 compression 4age
  16. JMP

    phil till

    if you're going with an aftermarket ECU that can do knock control, you'll want to replace the stock Toyota 4ag sensor with something like a bosch donut sensor, it will be more reliable and give better readings than the single wire Toyota sensor
  17. JMP

    phil till

    x2 on knock control not being essential on a 4age with aftermarket ECU. Tuned correctly, they work just fine. I personally see more engines fitted with aftermarket ECU's capable of knock control, where it is not configured as it takes time and money to correctly configure which many people don't want to pay for.
  18. comes from the main ignition map
  19. some tablets support OTG functionality where you can use what is essentially a splitter cable to connect to both a charger and the ECU. Others have hacked tablets to hardwire the power supply straight to the PCB inside
  20. they're listed in the help file with the new version
  21. JMP

    Surface pro

    yes, I've used Surface Pro's and the Surface laptops with pc link for a few years now, no issues apart from the usual pause/lag when pclink is initially opened
  22. if your pump still works with the fuel pump fuse removed, I'd be looking at any non-standard wiring in the car
  23. JMP

    Toyota 2zz VVTL-I

    you do run out of IO pretty quickly with a monsoon but you should just get there in a NA setup from your 6x Aux outputs you would use: VVT Solenoid VVL Solenoid ISC Solenoid Thermofan trigger Tachometer output Fuel pump trigger you wont have any spare to run Airon or a check engine light If it's currently wired to run off a stock 2zz ECU you will just need to bridge the EFI relay feed to the main relay trigger (+B to MREL) so the system energises when the ignition is on. For the VVT/VVL feed one side of the solenoids with ignition switched 12V and run the other side to the ECU Aux output's you have assigned. In my 2zz turbo swapped AE82 I run a G4+ Storm, in another 2zz supercharged AE82 I've done it runs a G4+ Extreme. I like to go with the Storms as a base level to provide enough IO to cater for any future requirements
  24. grab a Honeywell or other decent brand sensor, make sure it's remote mounted from the engine and you shouldn't have any issues
  25. I'd be replacing the AEM sensor
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