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JMP

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Everything posted by JMP

  1. These guys have a ton of experience making the IS dash's work with different computers: https://www.facebook.com/groups/all4swap/?ref=group_header
  2. it seems to be OK, we had an alternator die at the track and the car still ran consistent AFR as the voltage dropped from 14V down to 10V. If you've got a decent setup in the car currently I'd be inclined to leave it alone for the upcoming long drive though
  3. JMP

    Mixture Map

    I also use TP filters based on whatever condition I'm looking to address, varies depending on car and scenario
  4. JMP

    Mixture Map

    my understanding is Overrun Fuel cut > 0.5 will only show cells where overrun is active. I usually set mine to show Overrun Fuel Cut < 1
  5. S14 cluster is independent of the ECU, just needs tachometer feed from an Aux output of the ECU. I'd go back through the vehicle loom to find out what's been messed with to cause the cluster to not work. aftermarket gauges dont typically run through the ECU, they'll have their own senders. Trace the gauge wiring back through the car and see what's disconnected/missing in terms of loom and senders.
  6. are you pressing enter after typing the trigger offset before closing the box? If you type the number and click into the ignition delay box or even click the "done" button it wont stick. You have to type the number, press enter, then click the done button and do an ECU store (CTRL-S) before it will stick. The offset number box will turn blue after you press enter, then it's ready for you to click done and do a store
  7. to test boost solenoids, I just set the output to PWM test and listen for it clicking. Depending on how you have the solenoid plumbed, if you leave the boost control table set to zero, it will run wastegate spring pressure for boost
  8. you can follow the instructions on AIM's site for Link ECU's here: https://www.aimsports.com/download/ecu/racing/LinkG4+Series_100_eng.pdf
  9. JMP

    1uz with itb's

    personally I'd run a storm as a minimum
  10. that's a standalone display that has it's own sensors, it doesn't interface with an ECU
  11. JMP

    ECU for 1ZZ

    K's are stored on the cluster, if they're not showing there's likely a fuse blown. ECU is not needed for the heater to function
  12. JMP

    ECU for 1ZZ

    the runx only needs the factory ecu to run the water temperature guage in the dash. The speedo is independent of the ECU and the tacho can be driven directly by the link. Climate control is easiest to make work with a piggyback setup. You'll find the attached wiring diagrams are likely very close to what you have if the car is cable throttle corollaewdsupdr112w50.pdf corollaewdsupdr112w51.pdf corollaewdsupdr112w52.pdf
  13. JMP

    link dealer

    That's Godzilla Motorsport, yes they're a dealer. http://www.godzillamotorsport.com/
  14. JMP

    Weird firing order

    you're meant to wire the ignition ign1-cyl1, ign2-cyl2, ign3-cyl3, ign4-cyl4 and then set the firing order in pclink under ignition setup
  15. you want the ECU to be reading the same voltage your injectors and ignition system are receiving. In older toyota's like that I've found tarnished/hot relay and fuse contacts can cause a voltage drop, along with corroded ground points from battery to chassis and engine to chassis etc. Trace the circuits back one by one through their junction points in the chassis and you'll slowly identify the source of the drop
  16. I'd be reviewing the charge temp table for sure
  17. JMP

    Injector dead time

    probably not useful for you but as an indication I've got the following : 290cc 1zzfe injectors have a deadtime of 0.608msec at 14V 349cc 2zzge injectors have a deadtime of 0.93msec at 14V But as posted above, you can start with around 1msec at 14V and then vary the system voltage adjusting the deadtimes at each breakpoint to maintain consistent AFR. I've got a big DC power supply that I connect in place of the alternator when doing that part of the calibration
  18. are you working in Modeled fuel mode? If so, have you done much with the charge temp table
  19. yes, wire them like that, then the firing order is set in pclink
  20. JMP

    ej20g map needed

    using the same crank sprocket and cam wheels? If not you'll likely have to check the triggers as Adam mentioned
  21. JMP

    Ecu Link G4+ (part HC92+)

    if you dealer input 02529 into the portal when generating the unlock code, it will spit out the wrong code. Get your dealer to generate a new code using just 2529
  22. I'd be double checking the base timing with a light to confirm it's physically running the timing you're commanding in the ECU
  23. I'd start by flattening out the ignition map from 1500rpm and below to a much lower value so the engine doesn't make as much torque, try somewhere between 10-15deg as a test. While working through what ignition works best I'd also target something like 0.9 lambda
  24. confirm that your fuel pump remains running and fuel pressure is good. If you dont have the fuel trigger to the circuit opening relay connected/configured correctly the car will run for a few seconds on the initial burst of fuel the circuit opening relay provides before it shuts the pump off due to no trigger to the FC pin. When fuel pressure is confirmed, adjust the "Master Fuel" figure in "Fuel Main" configuration up until the engine stays running and your wideband reads a sensible number.
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