JMP

to have the factory water temp gauge in the cluster work, you need to retain the stock ecu. You cant drive it with the Link. You can piggyback the stock ecu with the link and run a second water temp sensor, but that is a really messy solution.

The Dash Cluster temp meter is fed direct from the ECU, it will always read cold with every aftermarket ECU apart from Kaizen Garage's ZZE/ZZT Adaptronic based plugin which has an additional circuit onboard to convert the signal to one the cluster can accept. The stock ECU outputs it's engine coolant temperature signal for the dash cluster from pin B-17, on the 22 pin ECU plug. PCB pin THWO. You can trace the signal with an oscilloscope using the stock ECU from dead cold to operating temp and then use an audrino or similar to create a module that will convert one of the vipec outputs to a signal the same as stock the cluster can interpret The narrowband sensor is quite useless, please replace it with a wideband setup You will need to tune all the idle base position tables etc from scratch

The attached file is what a friend has run on his turbo 1zz for the last 7 years. It's a v44 map but you can use it as a reference. The engine is in a cable-throttle ZZE122 corolla, standard PWM idle valve, returnless fuel system with static fuel pressure and vvti controlled by the V44. The trigger/vvt mode is set to 2NZ as we had a massive miss on the dyno around 4000rpm with the 1zz setting. JYU 1ZZ 12032016.pcl

does the ECU power down when you disconnect power from the blackbox? I'd think the blackbox is backfeeding 12V to the ECU, keeping it powered up

you can use whatever intake manifold you like, just wire the TPS, MAP sensor and idle valve correctly and configure/calibrate them to suit in the PClink software

If you download the PC link software, the manual and plugin pinout is in the help file

If it's got two ignitors and distributors it's an early non-vvti motor. There is wiring info in the help file for this one:

there's a ton of maps included with the pclink download package. If you've got an RB30DET instead of the VL motor you could use one of the GTR basemaps and modify it to suit your engine/trigger/ignition/injector combo

Thanks!

Yes, it's a bit of a pain, I've been trying to figure out how I can get my view back with the 3D graph and table displayed in the same tab.

pinout for the V3-4 plugin is in the help file, the MAF is on AN Volt 2 input which is pin 56 (6th pin along the top row on the 22 pin ECU plug), check with a multimeter if that pin in the loom has continuity through to one of the wires in your maf plug. The V3-4 basemap has a MAF configured, but it is not used for any of the fuel calculations. The fuel equation is set to MAP, the AFR target table load axis is MAP and the fuel table uses MGP for load which is also derived from the MAP sensor. If you want to get rid of the error code, simply set AN Volt 2 to "Off" I'd be checking the loom to ensure the previous owner hasn't wired the inputs used for the MAF and narrowband to use something else more useful like a wideband or oil/fuel/etc pressure sender.

Are you planning to use the MAF for tuning or are you going to use a MAP sensor? Most usually tune with MAP Is it the older metal-housing MAF?

Press the "U" key

I'd guess part of the problem is indeed that the software is installed in the program files folder and Windows is preventing the temp files from being created in that structure

I'd buy some new 040 crimp terminals and mod the 1J loom to fit into the Altezza plugs for the ECU side of things with the plugin, instead of hacking off the loom and making joins midway

Tacho and speedo will work if the car is wired correctly, depending on the year of the car you might have to repin the speedo input for the cluster to be fed from the ABS ECU's output. Your fuel gauge will go down in quarters and you might have a challenge with the climate control.

slight update, turns out the libraries define the clock speed and subsequent block sizes. We were using a 16Mhz library and the can shield had an 8Mhz clock... Replaced the 8Mhz clock with a 16Mhz and the comms is now working well Testing with a really cheap shield: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/EMS-Free-shipping-6870C-0243C-LC420WUN-LC470WUN-SBA1-Logic-board-High-quality-Hot-sale/620222773.html

I did a bit of searching and found a website earlier today that had a number of the error states explained, LEC stands for Last Error Code and it seems the "Stuff Error" is actually one of the standard error states defined for CAN comms: The owner's going to try a later CAN library for the Arduino tomorrow with the ECU on the bench. I thought it was interesting that the transmitting node flagged the stuffing error, but I'm still learning how CAN comms is meant to function. Setup screen looked like this:

Digging up an old thread... A friend has assembled one of these displays and programmed it to be an additional display for his turbo 1zzfe. I'm now trying to get it to work with his CAN enabled v88 (serial 10484). Is there any reference for the CAN Status runtime values available? While playing around with a couple of different CAN Shields I'm getting Stuff Error most of the time and sometimes a Bit0 error when trying a different data rate.. ECU is in transmit with compound format, Data Rate is 500kBPS and the canshield is initialised at 500kBPS.

Texas Instruments make the sensor, Honeywell also make a nice pressure sensor. Beware of many online retailers that resell the china-sourced "150psi TI" sensors at genuine TI prices. They're purchasing for ~$10ea and reselling at prices upwards of $200ea... On a critical system like fuel pressure, I like to use genuine. New wideband knock sensors aren't a bad idea

anything strange in the runtime value screen for the sensors (water, intake, MAP, TPS)?

on the fury, it can reuse the stock Toyota cam/crank, knock and water temp sensors exactly the same as the plugin. I use the TI 150psi sensors for fuel pressure on the builds I do and I don't generally wire oil temp to the ECU but the fury has 4 dedicated temperature inputs so having water, oil and air temp isn't an issue. If you're using the Fury's internal wideband controller you need a Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor and loom-side plug/pin kit. I buy a lot of my pressure, temperature and oxygen sensors along with plug/pin kits for all of the common Toyota sensors/senders from Ballenger Motorsports. You would have to check if the dash and toucan use the same CAN datastream, if they do then they could share the same bus.

what outputs does the water/meth system need? On the plugin, all the Auxillary outputs are accounted for but you could repurpose Aux Inj 7 which is usually the narrowband heater control and use it for the thermofan relay trigger. If the AEM needs an output from the ECU then you could potentially repurpose Aux 10 which is originally for the purge valve. The Dash and Toucan should both be able to run off the CAN bus. The stock knock sensors, water temp sensor, Crank/Cam triggers all work fine. The stock oil pressure switch is a bit useless, better off replacing it with a 150psi TI pressure sensor which can be wired to and of the spare AN Volt inputs to get a reading on the ECU. I'd also replace the stock Toyota air temp sensor in the plenum with a faster acting sensor mounted in the cooler pipe just before the throttle body. The AEM wideband's analogue output can be wired to AN Volt 3 or 4, both of which are designated to run the stock narrowbands in the plugin so you just reconfigure the input to the appropriate CAL. I'd personally go with a Fury ECU as I like the idea of a built-in wideband controller and making a new loom from scratch is easy for me. Toyota does a good job with their looms so it may be easier/better for you to go with the plugin.

You can buy a CANPCB connector from your Link dealer (http://www.linkecu.com/CANPCB_2) along with a CANDASH cable (http://www.linkecu.com/CANDASH_2) which can be wired through to the ODB2 port or the existing vehicle loom that runs to the ODB2 port. Alternatively, you can trace the pinout of your existing cable that plugs into the USB port to determine what PCB pins are connected to pin 3 and pin 4 in the socket. Then purchase a socket housing, contacts and retainer from RS components or similar (http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/pcb-connector-housings/8116803/) to make your own flying lead to wire into the vehicle loom that runs to the ODB2 socket. Connect 2 pins into the housing that correspond with the CAN H and CAN L positions you traced from the original USB tuning cable, then plug that housing into the CAN/RS232 port on the PCB. The ECU has an internal 120ohm resistor at one end of the bus, the device you connect to the ODB2 port will determine if you need a resistor at the other end. If the device you are connecting doesn't have a terminating resistor internally, then you will need to install one at the far end of the bus.

The info is in the help file, the ECU contains a terminating resistor, the pinout is also in there which is where the following screen capture comes from: