JMP

Open the PCLink help file, navigate to or search for the "ECU to OBD-II Port Wiring" page, all the info you need is there for the CAN bus wiring.

I always have a discussion with the tuner before handing the car over to be tuned, if they insist on password protecting their "intellectual property", I take the car elsewhere. With one tuner in particular on a previous ECU of mine, when I got access to the tune it was very obvious why they password protected the maps with the extremely poor quality of the tune.

how do you have your triggers configured? I had zero issues with my vvti 2J

upgrade the firmware

put one in a local car and the gauge goes down in quarters unfortunately, same as when you remove the stock ECU and wire in an aftermarket ECU that doesn't talk on the Toyota multiplex bus

looks backwards to me now. This pic is from the trigger scope section of the help file showing a normal trigger1 waveform

Dave, are you sure trigger 1 is reversed? Looks to have a slow rise on the missing tooth and falling through zero

good work When you pull something apart, put it back together again and it doesn't run right, it's usually a physical problem. Messing with the ECU is the very last step you'd take when it was running perfectly before pulling it apart

do a smoke test on it, still sounds like a vac leak to me

no vacuum leaks on the plenum?

I'd be checking the loom/terminal integrity for the TPS. I've seen plenty of old Toyota looms where the insulation breaks down or you get corrosion up the wiring under the insulation. You can also watch the runtime value screen to see if noise is being introduced to the signal

the G4+ based evolink's are the new "i series" plugins. They just removed the sticker from the rebadged vipec version Functionally identical to the i44/i88

There's not much work to change from the vipec v44 based plugins to the new G4+ plugin's, I did exactly that with my Subaru to get the VE based tuning, knock control, OBD2 output etc

In your map, the trigger mode is set to a 4cyl 2nz... You need to change that to 'Toyota 1JZ V VTi', then set the trigger offset to 205deg in the calibrate pageThe Trigger 2 vvti offset needs to be set to 170 ATDC

you've got the coils wired incorrectly. Wire them: IGN1 to Coil 1 IGN2 to Coil 2 IGN3 to Coil 3 IGN4 to coil 4 IGN5 to Coil 5 IGN6 to coil 6 Your firing order table is correct from the help file: Same goes for the injectors:

With my vvti 2jz running yaris coils direct fire I ran with the Trigger mode set to Toyota 1JZ V VTi, in the calibrate screen I had the trigger offset as 205deg The Trigger 2 vvti offset was 170 ATDC

The Throttle position sensor has 4 wires, 5V (VC), VTA, VTA2 and sensor ground (E2), the pedal position sensor also has 4 wires with the same 5V and ground along with VPA and VPA2. Wire VTA to AN Volt 6 and set to TPS Main Wire VTA2 to AN Volt 5 and set to TPS Sub Wire VPA to AN Volt 3 and set to FPS Main Wire VPA2 to AN Volt 2 and set to FPS Sub. This is also detailed fairly well in the help files

yes, use the vvti trigger setup from the help file then do calibration with a timing light as per standard procedure.

the trigger is actually 36-2, same as 1zz, 2zz, vvti 2jz etc.

that base file is non-vvti and direct spark, but easy enough to reconfigure for vvti triggers and waste spark ignition, just follow the info in the help file

have you got the reluctors wired correctly with regard to polarity?

Seems to be working fine for me, have been using it since the previews for a couple of months

My understanding is the plugin is intended for Supra's with single turbo conversions. Someone from link would need to confirm. When you look at the pinout and function information for the supra plugin in the installation manual and help file, not all the twin turbo VSV's and actuators are wired. Only 1x wastegate control solenoid on Aux4. The high level pic of the stock system with the various control systems is this one: http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/f/2JZGTESeqTurboSystemTesting.png A more detailed explanation of how the stock system works is here: http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost/supra/turbo.htm If you're willing to wire your spare outputs to the system and have a crack at programming the logic to make it work like factory, good luck to you I took the simpler path with a GT35R on my vvti 2J

The vvti motors use a different type of ECU loom plugs so the non vvti ECU doesn't physically plug in. Workaround is to use one of the universal ECU's and a fields-type adapter harness to make a plugin loom if you don't want to mod the stock ECU. For the twin turbo setup to work like factory, you will need to wire in all the control solenoids and then attempt to program the logic to control them like factory. Or you can do a simpler TTC setup which is easier to control electronically: http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/articles/andy.htm For reference, twin turbo info: http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/65646659/2JZ-GTE%20Sequential%20Turbo%20System Additional vvti and non vvti wiring info: http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/37134465/2JZ-GTE%20Engine%20Wiring%20Main

JZX110 is a drive by wire vvti 1jz with waste spark ignition same as the vvti 2J. You can use the Supra basemap fuel and ignition maps as a guide, are you leaving the stock ECU in control of the throttle and auto? Wiring in a new intake air temp sensor in a post intercooler location also? You can use the attached file as a guide, will need all the inputs/outputs reviewed and reconfigured based on how the patch loom is pinned. Would also need the usual DBW configuration/calibration. G4+ Fury DBW JZ Sample.pclr