JMP

in my race studio, the digit font size is 54 for the speed on that page, the unit font is size 18. What happens when you try and set the digit front to 54?

Does the dash lock up at the splash screen when the internal resistor is enabled and can connection disconnected?

when I make 1zz patch harnesses, I wire the IGSW (B08) pin to the MREL (A21) pin so the main relay is powered on when the ignition is switched on. The ISCV gets its power feed from the stock harness, so you only need to have the RSO (D18) pin connected to your Aux output. For the VVT OCV+ (D24) pin, I patch that into the +B (B16) pin. I never have any backfeeding issues

you can use any of the AIM dashes with the PDM32, they just connect over CAN like normal. You can buy the PDM32 independent of either of the pdm-specific clusters or the GPS module. I opted for the 10" display with mine as it's way better than my old MXS strada

I've never had the 1zz mode work on any of the 1zz's I've done, have always had to use the 2nz mode

x2 on Adam's comment, I've seen it work well with gate off the housing when there's a nice low angle merge

These work fine for oil temp: https://www.nzefi.com/product/bosch-engine-oil-temperature-sensor/ I've also used the Defi/Greddy style with flying lead, but they're 1/8bspt

Doesn't look to be any trigger errors logged, but your TPS is going to 110% and your differential fuel pressure does drop under boost but only by 4psi or so and it looks like you've tuned around that. No sure if having a TPS reading over 100 would impact anything otherwise. Cant see any limits being triggered in your log.

The missing tooth looks to be in the same position as the retaining tab when the keyway is facing straight up

kind of common for people to damage the teeth on JZ crank sprockets when they remove them but dont remove the tab on the intake side of block first, usually ends up ripping the trigger wheel off the back of the sprocket

what sort of 1JZ is it... vvti, non vvti? You've got a vvti trigger pattern selected for trig one but vvt set to off.. vvti engines use a 36-2 wheel, the non-vvti engine uses a 12 tooth wheel . All the setup guidance is in the help file but you'll also want to do a trigger scope to confirm the reluctors aren't wired backwards

Does anything change if you change the fuel system type setting from FP sensor to MAP referenced?

onw thing I like to check when seeing strangeness like this is to go and measure what voltage the injectors are receiving, to compare if that's the same as the ECU is reading. I've seen a LOT of installs where there's a significant difference between the ECU's reading and what the injectors/ignition is actually receiving. In modelled mode you should also zero out the IAT trim table to start with, and the charge temp table looks like it needs work

The CAL in the PDF is what I used, sensor working perfect with this:

I'll bet that's your problem, tons of EMI from non resistor plugs

wouldn't happen to be running non-resistor spark plugs?

not the ABS sensor, the speed sender, wire it like this:

R154 VSS interfaces just fine to the link

These guys have a ton of experience making the IS dash's work with different computers: https://www.facebook.com/groups/all4swap/?ref=group_header

it seems to be OK, we had an alternator die at the track and the car still ran consistent AFR as the voltage dropped from 14V down to 10V. If you've got a decent setup in the car currently I'd be inclined to leave it alone for the upcoming long drive though

I also use TP filters based on whatever condition I'm looking to address, varies depending on car and scenario

my understanding is Overrun Fuel cut > 0.5 will only show cells where overrun is active. I usually set mine to show Overrun Fuel Cut < 1

S14 cluster is independent of the ECU, just needs tachometer feed from an Aux output of the ECU. I'd go back through the vehicle loom to find out what's been messed with to cause the cluster to not work. aftermarket gauges dont typically run through the ECU, they'll have their own senders. Trace the gauge wiring back through the car and see what's disconnected/missing in terms of loom and senders.

are you pressing enter after typing the trigger offset before closing the box? If you type the number and click into the ignition delay box or even click the "done" button it wont stick. You have to type the number, press enter, then click the done button and do an ECU store (CTRL-S) before it will stick. The offset number box will turn blue after you press enter, then it's ready for you to click done and do a store