JMP
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Posts posted by JMP
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you can follow the instructions on AIM's site for Link ECU's here: https://www.aimsports.com/download/ecu/racing/LinkG4+Series_100_eng.pdf
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personally I'd run a storm as a minimum
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that's a standalone display that has it's own sensors, it doesn't interface with an ECU
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ECU for 1ZZ
in G4+
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ECU for 1ZZ
in G4+
the runx only needs the factory ecu to run the water temperature guage in the dash. The speedo is independent of the ECU and the tacho can be driven directly by the link.
Climate control is easiest to make work with a piggyback setup.
You'll find the attached wiring diagrams are likely very close to what you have if the car is cable throttle
corollaewdsupdr112w50.pdf corollaewdsupdr112w51.pdf corollaewdsupdr112w52.pdf
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That's Godzilla Motorsport, yes they're a dealer. http://www.godzillamotorsport.com/
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you're meant to wire the ignition ign1-cyl1, ign2-cyl2, ign3-cyl3, ign4-cyl4 and then set the firing order in pclink under ignition setup
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you want the ECU to be reading the same voltage your injectors and ignition system are receiving. In older toyota's like that I've found tarnished/hot relay and fuse contacts can cause a voltage drop, along with corroded ground points from battery to chassis and engine to chassis etc. Trace the circuits back one by one through their junction points in the chassis and you'll slowly identify the source of the drop
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I'd be reviewing the charge temp table for sure
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probably not useful for you but as an indication I've got the following :
290cc 1zzfe injectors have a deadtime of 0.608msec at 14V
349cc 2zzge injectors have a deadtime of 0.93msec at 14V
But as posted above, you can start with around 1msec at 14V and then vary the system voltage adjusting the deadtimes at each breakpoint to maintain consistent AFR.
I've got a big DC power supply that I connect in place of the alternator when doing that part of the calibration
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are you working in Modeled fuel mode?
If so, have you done much with the charge temp table
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yes, wire them like that, then the firing order is set in pclink
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using the same crank sprocket and cam wheels? If not you'll likely have to check the triggers as Adam mentioned
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if you dealer input 02529 into the portal when generating the unlock code, it will spit out the wrong code. Get your dealer to generate a new code using just 2529
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I'd be double checking the base timing with a light to confirm it's physically running the timing you're commanding in the ECU
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I'd start by flattening out the ignition map from 1500rpm and below to a much lower value so the engine doesn't make as much torque, try somewhere between 10-15deg as a test. While working through what ignition works best I'd also target something like 0.9 lambda
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confirm that your fuel pump remains running and fuel pressure is good. If you dont have the fuel trigger to the circuit opening relay connected/configured correctly the car will run for a few seconds on the initial burst of fuel the circuit opening relay provides before it shuts the pump off due to no trigger to the FC pin.
When fuel pressure is confirmed, adjust the "Master Fuel" figure in "Fuel Main" configuration up until the engine stays running and your wideband reads a sensible number.
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I dont believe Adam is a Link Staff member
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I'd 2nd the bearing clearance question
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yeah, I got one thrown in with an AIM MXS as part of a package deal... would never spend that sort of cash on one
You've got more than 8 signals to input? An alternative is to use spare inputs on your ECU and then use those as triggers for the event on the dash -
wire them to the analogue inputs and them configure the dash as required. There are add-on CAN IO expanders you can use if you happen to run out of inputs on the dash: https://store7103007.ecwid.com/#!/Wiring-Input-Module/p/95858450/category=13870061
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you should contact the realdash developer to get it addressed, you can find the datastream layout in the link help file under "Technical Terms and Reference > Communications" where it states DI1 through DI6 speed streams are transmitted in KPH. Gear position is also sent in the stream so it's up to the developer to get it sorted, not Link Support
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Can still tap into the expansion loom the smartycam's on to get the feed
I ended up buying a whole bunch of the connectors AIM use from RS Online so I could make my own cables instead of needing to purchase their expansion hub
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I've done this by utilising the AIM smartycam stream instead of writing a custom canbus driver that can do both transmit/receive in RaceStudio.
I leveraged the info on this page about how the smartycam stream is made up: https://wiki.autosportlabs.com/AIM_Integration_CAN_Mapping
Then used that to send Speed and EGT info back to the ECU by connecting the AIM Expansion CAN channel to the ECU's CAN2 plugIt took a bit of messing around but works perfectly. One day I'll spend some time writing a driver so it can all be done on the one can bus
G4+ Fury first tune 2gr-fe Turbo 92 MR2
in G4+
Posted
to test boost solenoids, I just set the output to PWM test and listen for it clicking. Depending on how you have the solenoid plumbed, if you leave the boost control table set to zero, it will run wastegate spring pressure for boost