JMP

I'm guessing you have a wire in ECU of some sort and are using the can plug on the case. Have you stripped out the other serial wires in the CAN plug? If they're left in place you'll lose your pclink connection when the CAN lambda is plugged in

I've run them on many builds with vi-pec and Link ECU's, when wired correctly they work perfectly. Pinout detailed here is correct: https://www.sq-engineering.com/tech-articles/coilpack-info-guide/

If the engine stopped turning after one revolution, you've got a battery/wiring problem (or something seriously mechanically wrong). The ECU doesn't impact the engine cranking. check your fuses, and check for power at the ECU plugs.

I've seen 2J's with the stepper wired backwards before, so rpm increased as the idle table numbers were reduced

Doesn't Motec already offer this with their M1 Development ECU's?

I've got tons of experience with these valves, same as is used on the 1zz, 2zz and v7-9 WRX's. Take the screws out so the back manget/connector section can be removed and check that the mechanism spins freely. It's really common for them to gum up or even become rusted internally and then it doesn't matter what you do trying to control it you will fail. I run then at 250hz and usually need something like a 20% duty control range. Eg, low temps around 60% duty and operating temp around 40% Edit: It may be a two coil type as posted previously, simple enough to check but still worth checking that the control mech can spin freely Edit again: Looking at the ST215 3sgte EWD, the valve only has 1 control wire like the 2zz, 1zz etc.

I don't have any NA basemaps, you'll need to make one yourself based on however the adapter harness has been put together. The monsoon base map would be a good start with the required changes for all the fueling configuration, triggers and dwell Main thing to look out for is the trigger mode, you may find that you end up with a ~4000rpm limit/misfire using the 1zz trigger mode. If this is the case then switch it to the 2NZ trigger mode and an offset of 145 should get you close. The Toyota 1ZZ cam control mode for the vvti works fine, my trigger 2 offset is 51deg ATDC

I had the same thought, especially when you take into consideration the typical time offset of the wideband reading compared to the other logged values

your log is full of basically the same value as far as I can see. I have noticed in the past that the logging will "hold" and sit on the last value if the screen/pc goes to sleep. What are your power management settings on the tablet?

did you drop or knock the sensor at any stage when installing?

not really sure why you're referencing the 1uz basemap for a 1zz... Take a powerfc 1zz vvt map and translate that across to work. In Datalogit or the hand controller, a value of 50 is equivalent to zero cam advance in the Link. So you export the powerfc vvt table to excel, then do some simple math to subtract the table value from 50, and you will have the equivalent Link advance number. The challenge will be the powerfc load values don't correlate easily, but once you see the shape of the vvt table with regard to RPM it's easy enough to get in the ballpark for a Link table.

if you match the axis with your fuel table it will be a lot easier to get your fuel tuning right

on a second look this morning, your tuner has also used both the charge temp approximation table and the IAT Fuel Trim Table, without much correlation between the two. Same with using modeled fuel mode and the warm up enrichment table is still in use as you would in a traditional fuel mode setup. whole map/config likely needs revisiting

your tuner seems to like having massive steps of advance in the timing and vvt tables... Is it a pig to cruise around moving between 1500-2000rpm?

the expensive option is a surface go with travel adapter for permanent power, running pclink. There are some smaller windows 10 8" tablets still available out of china

yes, I've done it many times. Follow the attached guide and it will work perfectly ae86 gze tacho translated final.pdf

Is your timing reading something sensible with a light? But yes, the injection mode is set to off in the file attached Also turn off the cam control mode in VVT setup, it's currently configured for a vvti engine. Your trigger filtering and arming threasholds don't match the recommended starting points for the 1uz listed in the help file

yep, fixed the issue on my Surface Laptop where I didn't have the scaling set to 100 initially

have you tried setting display scaling to 100%?

As has been stated in this thread many times and in the comparison chart above from link, the Atom does NOT have knock control, if you want it the minimum spec ECU is a storm. Go download pclink from the main link website, open the atom basemap and you will see there is no "Knock Control" section. When you're done looking there, open the Storm basemap and have a browse through the knock control section On an Atom you can theoretically connect a 0-5V output from an external knock amplifier box to one of the spare analog inputs, but you can't do anything with it as there is no knock control section available in the Atom ECU

Keep in mind that the atom isn't capable of accepting a knock sensor signal, if that is still on your "want" list of sensors, as stated earlier you'll need to go with a storm if you want knock input

that transition from 1500rpm to 2000rpm in low load must feel weird on the road. On E85 I'd be throwing it on the dyno to check what your torque is doing, hard to tell otherwise. Any EGT logging?

It doesn't matter if you have an onboard map sensor or not, you can still use the 4ag's original map sensor, just wire it to a spare AN Volt input and assign it as a map sensor in the software, then if you have an onboard map sensor, disable that in the software. In my view, the importance of knock control comes down to how prone your engine is to knock on the common locally available fuel in addition to how well it is mapped. Eg, a Subaru EJ257 is a lot more prone to knock than a 10.3:1 compression 4age

if you're going with an aftermarket ECU that can do knock control, you'll want to replace the stock Toyota 4ag sensor with something like a bosch donut sensor, it will be more reliable and give better readings than the single wire Toyota sensor

x2 on knock control not being essential on a 4age with aftermarket ECU. Tuned correctly, they work just fine. I personally see more engines fitted with aftermarket ECU's capable of knock control, where it is not configured as it takes time and money to correctly configure which many people don't want to pay for.