JMP

comes from the main ignition map

some tablets support OTG functionality where you can use what is essentially a splitter cable to connect to both a charger and the ECU. Others have hacked tablets to hardwire the power supply straight to the PCB inside

they're listed in the help file with the new version

yes, I've used Surface Pro's and the Surface laptops with pc link for a few years now, no issues apart from the usual pause/lag when pclink is initially opened

if your pump still works with the fuel pump fuse removed, I'd be looking at any non-standard wiring in the car

you do run out of IO pretty quickly with a monsoon but you should just get there in a NA setup from your 6x Aux outputs you would use: VVT Solenoid VVL Solenoid ISC Solenoid Thermofan trigger Tachometer output Fuel pump trigger you wont have any spare to run Airon or a check engine light If it's currently wired to run off a stock 2zz ECU you will just need to bridge the EFI relay feed to the main relay trigger (+B to MREL) so the system energises when the ignition is on. For the VVT/VVL feed one side of the solenoids with ignition switched 12V and run the other side to the ECU Aux output's you have assigned. In my 2zz turbo swapped AE82 I run a G4+ Storm, in another 2zz supercharged AE82 I've done it runs a G4+ Extreme. I like to go with the Storms as a base level to provide enough IO to cater for any future requirements

grab a Honeywell or other decent brand sensor, make sure it's remote mounted from the engine and you shouldn't have any issues

I'd be replacing the AEM sensor

Nitrous activation would likely go to one of the DI inputs, pressure switch could go to a spare DI or Volt input, all depends on what you have spare in your ECU configuration If you're connecting the innovate analogue output to the ECU, you would use one of the spare Volt inputs

injector size and characteristics are needed for the modelled fuel model to work well

need a windows tablet for pclink, if you just want a display you can run realdash on an android tablet

Nothing obvious in the log to me, it would be nice to see a log with AFR and fuel pressure. From the ECU statistics page it looks like this ECU has been in use for quite some time, so I'd be leaning towards more of a mechanical type issue, going back and checking the basics. I had a similar issue with a turbocharged 1zz many years ago, where it would hit what seemed to be a premature revlimit around the 4000rpm mark. For that one it was a trigger issue and I had to use the 1NZ trigger setting for it to work correctly

-100 wastegate trim wont cause it to break up like that, will just operate at wastegate pressure instead of higher boost. When you're tuning boost control you should be going through all the tables, I can imagine the -100 trim in there is more of a safety net so those that are blindly going about tuning don't grenade an engine

To me I'd say the injector deadtime figures are not correct or you have a grounding issue. In your log you can see the deadtime spike when the voltage drops, when the deadtime spikes your engine slowly goes rich and then recovers to normal AFR after the voltage is back to ~14V. Looking at the deadtime table, in my opinion the figures are likely to be guestimates with a 0.1ms step per 1V from 12 to 14V instead of actual measured data. There is some Siemens data in the link help file you can reference, I'm not sure what the 880cc part number is but the Siemens 3105 look like they might be around 880cc at 3bar base pressure. In the link Data they have a 0.058ms deadtime step between 13 and 14V at 45psi base pressure, which seems more realistic When I'm dialing in/confirming deadtime I use a big DC power supply in place of the alternator and run the car from 11V through to 15V watching the AFR while keeping the engine in consistent load sites, if there is an AFR swing then the deadtime is adjusted to keep it consistent. This has worked quite well for me resulting in an excellent deadtime table and rock solid AFR's through the voltage range

I'm not sure why you'd buy a different ecu with this lack of update being the reason... doesn't make any sense to me. I've got 4x G4+ ECU's across my cars and none have any issues in everyday operation that I'm desperate for an update.

I used the 2nz trigger settings and 1zz Cam control mode on the 2zz's I've done

Looks quite a bit more aggressive through the midrange at peak torque, but as others have posted it's difficult to comment without more information

link the ignition switched 12V wire to the MREL trigger. I wire the 1J vvti solenoid to the same power feed as the injectors

AGT Engineering has all the data for them, he made his own boxes of tricks for engine conversions: https://www.facebook.com/AGTEngineering/

would pay to check the critical stuff like Crank and Cam sensors once you get it running with the build in scope, sounds like whoever made your loom isn't familiar with Toyota wiring diagrams and may have got everything backwards...

pin one is the left-most in the pics above, there's some more visual representations on this page: www.sq-engineering.com/tech-articles/coilpack-info-guide Looking from the wiring-side of the plug, from left to right it's - Ground, Trigger, Ignition Confirmation (not required), Ignition switched 12V, which matches the factory diagram snip you have there but doesn't match what you've typed about having +B red to the "right most part" of the connector

I use falling edge on Toyotas with that style of Denso COP, how are the coils wired?

Sensor grounds should only run to the sensors, don't ground any spare sensor ground wires

I made my own for a couple of dashes but the MXS is sitting on top of the panel, the next one I do will be fully recessed with AIM's remote button interface as the buttons are a bit of a pain to get at when mounted in place of the stock cluster These guys do a flush mount bezel with the button cutout: http://www.precision-metalcraft.com/product-page/aim-mxs-strada

If the idle is oscillating, I'd look to adjust your base ignition and fuel tables to stabilise it first