JMP

are you going to use just the charge temp table or the IAT and ECT correction tables? Looks like you're using all at the moment, which can make things more difficult to get right. Using the STI MAF's IAT isn't ideal but you may have more success using only the charge temp table if you're not going to install an IAT sensor in the manifold or just before the throttle body. It's potentially worth trying to find a better tuner as there is a lot to be corrected in your existing setup.

you can input your own sensor calibrations so you can use virtually any sensor, the Bosch sensors will work fine. For the LSU you will need an external controller and wire that to one of the analogue inputs

run a BSPT adapter elbow out of the block to a line with a decent sender mounted away from the PS/AC bracket, or grab a defi/greddy pressure sender which is already BSPT and will screw straight into the block behind the bracket

I'd go back to basics and get it working in open loop first which will help you get your base table right. The 1000rpm ignition column values at low load wont be helping your idle stability either

Yep, very annoying. I bought a bunch of the plugs by themselves to avoid this issue with the link supplied cables. From Mouser it's part number AU-06BFFA-LL7001

remove the ground and serial connections

so there's only 2 wires in the plug at the ecu end? or are there other wires in the remaining pins which aren't connected. Can only have the two CAN wires populated in the plug, any other flying leads off the extra pins will cause you problems

the one I did had caldina ST215 550cc injectors and a walbro pump in the stock dead-end fuel system, stock static fuel pressure which wasn't boost referenced. The map sensor is a generic 3bar GM sensor and IAT is a vipec sensor. MAF wasn't used at all. It also had an LC-1 wideband and the stock narrowband deleted. Idle control was with the stock idle solenoid which is a simple 3 wire solenoid, power, signal and ground. I put wideband's in every car I fit aftermarket ECU's to, used for closed loop fuel trim and logging

the 1zz turbo I did was a completely stock long motor, has been turbocharged for 10 years now and done more than 100,000km with forced induction. I 2nd Shedley's post about getting the fuel and ignition maps tuned first

try setting your cranking ignition to 10deg or less. This turbo 1zz had 12deg of ignition timing during cranking:

I don't use either for low load stuff with my EJ257, I just use traditional logging and review through a few iterations. Be wary of the impact your cam timing has depending on how you have your tables configured (tps v's rpm or map v's rpm etc)

I'm in Australia and the AEM platform is almost non-existent here as we have so many other options that are well proven. Download the PCLink software and have a look for yourself, I find it very user friendly. One tip would be to learn the keyboard shortcuts for tuning as that makes things a lot faster. I don't use the autotune stuff for AFR, it's easier to manually make adjustments to the map. I use the mixture map function to assist with a bit of fine tuning after initially roughing in the fuel map. The cost of a map sensor doesn't come into the equation when I'm making a choice on an ECU for a new build, MAP sensors are cheap and represent a negligible percentage of the overall cost when implementing a standalone ECU on a custom turbo build. An early IO table from the ZZE122R Corolla turbo I did is attached for your reference and this is an example map you can view with the older Vipec VTS software: JYU 1ZZ 12032016.pcl

I turbocharged a 1zz with an old Vipec V44 8 years ago which has a similar pin configuration to the monsoon. That car's going to be upgraded to a G4+ Storm shortly as we had run out of inputs on the V44 and now want to add a flex fuel sensor along with oil pressure and temp sensors direct to the ECU. I've also recently upgraded my own turbo 2zz from an old G4 Red Xtreme to a G4+ Storm so I could take advantage of the new modelled fuel mode

http://dealers.linkecu.com/TS2JZPlus They're not massively expensive new

the AW11, AE82, AE92's all have the same sort of VSS built into the speedo, it's a reed switch that outputs 4 ground pulses per revolution. You can fit a later electronic speed sender from an AE101, 111, 112 to the AW's C series gearbox if you want to change to an electronic speedometer.

celica or lotus 2zz?

Storm would run it, the monsoon gets a bit short on outputs

a 2nd hand vipec v88 would be the most economical which would run it, but a Link Fury would be the best

non vvti 1jz is wired with injectors batched, 3 drives. vvti 1J uses sequential injection with 6 drives

knock $100 on average off the cost of the cheapest stuff on the market at the moment and you've got the ballpark of what they'll cost

LS2 "Truck" coils? Was the stock metal cage/mounting bracket that is grounded to the heatsink removed? They're noisy without it and do tend to fire early if you run too much dwell.

on the subject of code and pclink, are there any plans to port pclink with the desktop bridge to the windows store? Seems straightforward enough and it would allow people to use PClink on all the new/cheap devices about to be released with windows 10S

have you done the basics, followed the setup guide and checked the offset with timing light, then checked the VVT offset following the instructions in the help file? On my vvti 2J, I ended up with a trigger offset of 205 and a vvt offset of 170. The VVT should be configured as inlet/LH (for both the VVT Aux output cam type and the trig 2 cam type). I ran the solenoid at 175Hz on my engine and it controlled perfectly. Firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4

try increasing your fuel master to get the AFR closer to lambda 1 at idle, looks to be fairly lean through that log. I'd personally get it running nicely with an idle target closer to 0.95 lambda first then dial it in from there

something like https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/129_142/products_id/1597?osCsid=dan4bu5ljd2vkgijgttlmogcr1 Check the thread pitch and depth of your original sensor