Simon

Have set the IC light to come on based on Aux 2 which is the IC spray output. Changed the Engine fan 1 polarity to low. have set Di 5 as a GP input for now as you can t have to inputs assigned the same function. We will need you to try the switches and report back on the operation. 1104343298_EVOstartmapvictorv2b.pclr

I suspect those coils will need an external igniter. Measure the resistance between the Power supply and the ECU signal wire. If its down at 0.5-1.5ohms then an igniter is needed

Yes that should be fine it is very close to the magic 10000 serial though so there is a chance a hardware update might be needed.

No it has to be to the specific Knock input pin.

Pin 113 is where we expect it to be

Pin 46 is a no connect, and pin 11 will be Ign 6 for a 1.5 bottom board. (on the older 1.4 and earlier this used to be Aux 4)

The version that we are interested in is for the bottom board the one with the serial on it refers to the top-board. On the later boards where Aux 9 and 10 were brought out to the XS header, aux 4 is not wired as it has to be free for the use of Aux 9 to do E throttle.

First step will be to check the error values are correct. Its relatively common to see incorrect error values. The Temp channels will go to 5V under a open circuit. (broken wire suspect joint etc) The AN volts will only go high if there is a short to 5V.

For the AC Fan go to Auxiliary Outputs Ign > Ignition Drive 4 then set the polarity to Low. For the water spray this will need to be configured. Ign 5 drive controls the IC light Aux 2 controls the IC spray relay Di 5 is the IC Spray auto request Di 3 is the manual IC Spray input. All of these will need setting up as they are not pre configured in the start map.

On the Atom you don't have the same issue as there is no serial output. (assuming atom II) I would initially start by powering the ECU on the bench and then see if you can connect.

You will need to connect to the CAN port on the plugin PCB This can be done using a CANPCB cable + a CANF connector See Wiring Information > Communication Wiring > CAN Bus Wiring in the PC link tuning software help file.

If you head to the PC link help file then G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > Auxiliary Outputs > Wiring Auxiliary Outputs there is a section that explains what can happen

On ITBs you would likely just use 1 or 1/2 cycle option.

Ign 4 is connected to all 3 pins Pin 20 is EFan HiSpeed for EVO 456 (EVO7,8 No Connect) Pin 32 is Condenser Fan (Hi Speed) EVO 4-8 Pin 34 is Condenser Fan (Low speed) EVO 4-8

That's one possibility ruled out. You can also use the compare function to check the maps If you were to connect to the ECU first and save map. Then jump of line from ECU and open and compare the just saved and the going to be loaded map and check any differences are as expected. Then load to ECU and see if any change once stored and then power cycled.

What is your PC link software version?

That catch is going to be the hot feed to the injectors and this combined with an ECU with peak hold capable drives. You need to change the 12V feed to a key switched supply so that power is removed from the injectors at key off.

You will have to trace it through from the ECU end. Pin 35 at the ECU is the signal from the Front AFM and is connected to AN volt 5 Pin 27 is the signal from rear AFM and is AN Volt 4

@Serkan Thanks for getting back to us with that info. Good to know it was resolved.

Once we have released it globally there will be in the next PC link release. Japan are doing the testing for us.

Yes there is but you would normally just replace one of the factory narrowband 02 inputs

It is likely getting noise on the trigger signals so could be a coil breaking down causing noise and then the RPM error. I'm assuming this is an older install and it has developed over time.

Pullup should be off as it is a VR sensor. However you might still have issues depending on how the ABS is using the sensor.

Yep that would be the set up to go with. The second wire connects to sensor ground.

Try setting the Di input to Frequency, Pullup I would expect to need to be off. Edge is not likely to matter. then see if you have any frequency. If you don't then next step would be to scope the output of the GPS to see what sort of wave form you have.