Simon

Martin is well on to this one so ill let him do the work for us. It is really appreciated plenty of cold ones await should you visit.

Not to sure as to why this would be the case as generally the numbers will always get bigger the higher the row. I would use the zone edit function and go through and check all the other rows also. If the numbers are all over the place then a reload might be in order.

On having a look at this ECU in-house it was found that the TPS was spanned incorrectly. On the V5 software there will be a fuel cut active below 850rpm at wide open throttle. This is to allow the clearing of a flooded engine. When cranking the TPS must read less than 80% for the injectors to work.

Hi Peter What ECU is this on? First area to check will be that you have the correct ignition configuration. Paying close attention to the Dwell or spark edge setting. You will of course have to tune all fuel and ignition figures as well.

I would bring your master down to about 20 and see how that goes. You will be able to ball park it at idle relatively quickly.

Chances are if its a G1 LEM the idle speed control might not be connected or the drive is being used for other tasks. It might just be best to leave as is. Simon

The unit is PC tunable with a serial link. You will be in for a sub-board change. The catch is it is one of the ones we no longer have that you require. We tend to get some back on occasion so if you are happy to wait I'm sure we can get it up and running for you. However the 3vzfe would be better suited to the G4 range of ECU's Looms for the G1 are currently still in stock so no problems there.

I would suggest that the dizzy should be left in the factory position and the ECU offset adjusted to get the timing correct. This will avoid cross firing due to a rotor offset. (don't think this will cause the no start) Is the fuel pump running when cranking the engine? Otherwise the MAP looks ok. Simon

Hi Jason I would start by checking the return flow to the tank from the secondary fuel rail regulator. What I suspect is that the fuel pump might not be keeping up with the required flow.

I would suggest a change of igniter to something that is suited to being driven off an ECU rather than direct from a distributor. Igniters that are triggered directly have built in dwell control which will be fighting the dwell control from the ECU.

Could help and would be worth a try.

Pricing is dependent on location in the world. The biggest draw back to the upgrade is the time involved in transferring the G3 map over to G4. The numbers have to be manually copied over.

If you have the conventional Nissan trigger wheel in the dissy (360 slots and 4 slots) then this is all you require.

Just tune to suit the fueling needs of the engine.

High impedance is fine to use. If it is a wire in unit running the engine then you will most likely currently have ballast resistors fitted. These will need to be removed. On a plug in unit then no changes are needed on the G1s

This is likely to be electrical noise being radiated at the higher cylinder pressure levels. Check all leads, plugs and coils are in good shape. Plugs must be resistive if running wasted spark.

You could have a look at the RX7 base map for the plugin this will give you a good starting point.

It in there on 4.4.3 firmware. It can be used as a condition when set as a GP output.

If it fits in factory enclosure then it is most likely a G1 Possum Link. Should have a sticker on the main micro that will tell us more.

Yep.

Keep looking for sources of noise. Windows tends to stop the USB ports when it sees any noise on the line. We do have an option of using a serial cable if you can find a laptop with a serial port.

Are you using PC Link or the hand controller? What igniters are you using? What cam/crank triggers are you using?

It is an early G1 LEM. And adapter. Will only suit GTiR. Will give total control over all engine functions. Suggest talking to a tuner first.

G1 Evo plug in. Can do boost control. Suited to evo1-3. No ability to use PC tuning

Zone 8 should be the setting for wastegate rpm. This is the RPM at which we take control of the boost. To get more zones you will need to span the TPS to 220.