Simon
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Posts posted by Simon
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2001-2002 I think.
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Hi Tony.
I'm going to throw a spanner in the works with this one.
The cam control must be driven off aux outputs 1-4.
It can still be done but might require more of a wiring change around.
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In warmer conditions this would be a very normal temp for the ECU to be running at.
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E-Throttle will be available shortly. For the CVVT we would require the trigger information for the engine.
This can then be allowed for in a future firmware update.
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Triggers should be set to Subaru assuming the factory sensors are being used.
You will also need to check the timing offset.
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The Dwell will depend on the coil you are running. Injector wise if you leave the dead times as the defaults. It should be able to give you an ok state of tune. The dwell times really only come into effect or are noticed when the battery voltage is not stable.
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It will depend on the firmware of the ECU. G4's have this option available on latest firmware.
It is also sometimes confused with the "quick tune" function.
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I would be looking at things like a loose battery terminal. Also check all the power supplies and grounds to the ECU.
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If the engine was tuned to 98 i would be pulling some timing out before driving it too hard.
The change of fuel to a lower octane could bring on knock and very much shorten the life of the engine.
The Lambda settings are used as a target Lambda value for when closed loop is turned on.
http://www.linkecu.com/products/pdfs/gtslinkinstructionmanual
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I would be looking for a missing sync pulse. I would likely start by checking the contact of the sub-board to the main board. As this is an area that can cause problems.
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If you get the ECU back to us we will be able to retain the numbers and repair the damage to the board.
If the damage is beyond repair then we will advise the best path to take.
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This will suit a WRX V7 only. It is a G1 ecu and requires a serial link to talk to the PC. The PC software for this ECU is pre vista. I would suggest using a pc with XP.
The ECU would have shiped with a good starting tune.
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Hi Nick
Cameron asked me to take over on this one. From the details you have given it is all as it should / needs to be. The area to look at is signals coming from the CAS. We need to check that we have the 24 tooth trigger hooked into trig 1 and the single tooth / sync in to trig 2. And that the signals are actually there.
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A) Yep there sure is.
You get a few extras but will require the XSLoomHave attached the instlation book.
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Give [email protected] an email we will get back to you within a day or two.
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Speedworks in Palmerston North is going to be your cloest dealer.
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Hi Paul
We removed pricing to support our dealers. We much prefer to have people contact their local dealer.
If you contact us via email we can then quote prices for you. [email protected] will be the one to use for this.
Simon
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If you go into device manager and then to the hardware tab. Can you see any devices that are unknown or showing as Link ECU USB?
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You will need to bring it through the Knock Block as there is no hardware on the board to support knock.
Simon
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Yes you will need. Readjust the thresholds. As the outputs will change.
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Its going to be a case of visit the tuner that did it first time around or start from scratch.
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We can put it in the queue but it might be some time in coming.
You get a few extras but will require the XSLoom
Appropriate Anti-Lag Mode?
in Link G2 G3
Posted
You could most likely work Mode 2 to what you want. When the idle is low the cyclic idle will have no effect so will idle normal. The Nissan solenoid is often a good smaller one to use. Bosch do a nice large one.