Simon

Sounds like there are some grounds missing. You can check if there really is 5V at the pins with a multi meter. Check you have used the signal grounds in the loom and wired the main grounds to the engine block.

Ill pass this on to engineering.

Thats about it. Only pinout change was a 5 volt out was changed to an input.

The new G4 range does have a function called Quick Tune this uses a AFR look up table and lets the ecu correct the fueling to suit. An external wideband controller is required.

Hi Dave G4s are now heading out the door. We should have info up on the site shortly.

Still busy swapping over all the current plugins to the G4 platform. But once thats done then we can get into some more interesting ones.

The ECU you have currently will need a sub-board swap and then will be all go to control the engine Kelvin would be a good person to chat to come install and tune time.

Need a bit more info on this to be any real help.

Keep an eye on trade me is likely to be the best option. Or some of our dealers might have a used one lying around.

Strictly speaking in this arrangement you don't require boost control. If however you then want to increase the boost past the spring pressure of the wastegate boost control will then come into its own.

This is a very early LEM. It will need a firmware upgrade and a sub-board change to get it up and running on the CA18.

Best bet is going to be to use one sensor for each unit. Whilst tuning you might want to have both sensors hooked into the KnockBlock and headphones on.

As Ashley said if you find a JDM pin out your ECU will match this.

There isn't currently an option for that sensor. We would need to get a calibration off the sensor to get it entered in to the ECU firmware.

The software is free to download so no cost to try it. We don't have any PCs running inhouse to try with. All we know is from feed back from customers.  And of those that have tried some got it running and others didn't. It might just be down to those that know their way around Vista have better luck.

You can tune from the existing map. Given the large injector change you will need to lower you master fuel number quite a lot. The current firmware that ECU is running will only support tuning via hand controller. You can upgrade to PCtuning for a fee. Returning the ECU to us for the upgrade and retest. For tuning we would strongly suggest a wideband O2 controller. The innovate motorsports line of products are very good.

One area to keep an eye on will be the actual ECU temp. In some cases we have seen an ECU get to hot and shut down. If you are able to get a log from the ECU when it shuts down that would also help.

You might be finding that as the load of the fan come on to the engine it is getting a little too lean and causing the surge. Try adding some more fuel around the idle zones with fan on.

The SerialLink will be fine on vista. But the PCLink software may not be (50/50 chance) Most USB to serial cables will be fine. We have had the best luck with DSE ones.

You will need a serialLink and a USB to serial converter if you don't have a serial port on your pc. To work out the firm ware there may be a sticker on the back of the ECU by the tuning port. If not then taking the lid off will and checking the sticker on the main micro.

Serial Link can be bought from any of our dealers. If you download the LPV14 instruction manuals this will give you a very good understanding of what the unit can do. Software wise if you download PCLink V2.5.

The power link requires an RPM signal this can come from either the tacho or the coil negative. Injector duty cycle will increase with boost in a linear fashion so the more boost the more fuel. A common place to put the extra injectors is just after the throttle butterfly. But if you only have the two options you mentioned then I would go for the one injector between two cylinders in the plenum.

You would need to get that dell up a bit assuming you are running V3/4 coils. Try 3.5 to 4ms Check that the MAP sensor is reading correct and hooked up. It should read 100ish KPa at key on and then much lower when engine idling. Is it rich right through? or is it rich at the bottom end and leaning out up top? The base map is only a starting point, a full tune must be done.

Air temp sensor is going to be a must have. You might also need igniters and ballast resistors. ECU wise it all really depends on how many In's and and out's you need. LinkPlus or LEM both are likely to be more than up to the task.

A rewire is going to be best. There a few extra wires to be run and the connector is totally different.