Simon

Rather than moving all the MAP values down. You can get things close by adjusting your master fuel value. This will shift all your fueling values to allow for the bigger injectors. Simon

They just act as an interface between our LEM plug and the factory. Only advantage is the saving in install time. And even then if you happen to get a car with a slightly different pin out it might not even save time. Simon

Yep sure does

For the G1's in the air box is fine. Simon

We are happy to supply short looms for you to create your own jumper looms. Contact [email protected] for pricing.

There are some startup maps in the PCLink software that will be an ok starting point. These should get the engine to start. But I wouldn't drive to far on them (on to a trailer should be fine) before some tuning is done. It really does pay to see a tuner at the point the motor idles and get them to tune from there.

This will be a drawback for the limited idle control of the G1 linkplus and being paired up to a auto trans. As the load comes off the engine the revs will rise and the idle control will try to catch it but over correct and bring on the stall. This is where a neutral input to the ECU is really useful. You might be able to get it a little better by playing with throttle stop and base idle numbers. Try and get it to be able to take the shift with the idle control unpluged and then run lowish idle control numbers.

Two good options would be Richard at The Chequered Flag 83 Sydney Street Petone 04 939 3636 Or Andre' Simon at SpeedTech 115 Gracefield Road Unit 7 Seaview 04-586 6384 The O2 sensor shouldn't be too much of a problem as this is only ever used for fine adjustments.

Hi In theory if its tuned correctly you can have the best of both worlds. If driven hard it will be thirsty and if driven gently it should be ok on the gas. Best thing to save fuel is to turn the boost down and get a full dyno tune.

We can do just give [email protected] a bell and they can sort you out.

In that case you will need to tee off all 4 intake ports to a common tube that then feeds the MAP sensor. Tuning wise you are likely going to need to the 4D fuel option.

Yep that should be spot on.

A lot of guys will leave this off on a 20V assuming you are not turboed. You then do all your fuel and ignition off TPS.

I think the earlier version engines ran a mechanical pump that can be retro fitted. Failing that it might have to be premix. For the Turbo control I don't know of a solution. However someone on here might. Simon

Hi Michael Ill have to get this one on to the bench and do some testing. Are you able to send through your PCL file to [email protected] Simon

Given you have fuel but no spark. I would start at the igniter, Next would be the wiring from the crank angle sensor. Pay close attention to the trigger two wiring. Simon

This should help..

The numbers do not cross over at all between the G1 product and the G3's with the exception of ignition advance numbers to an extent. You will need a way to measure the mixture. Master   Master scales the overall fuel injection scheduling and is effective throughout the entire operating range from idle to full power. Master is required as an overall trim to account for the size/capacity of the engine and the flow rate of the injectors.    Note: Master should be adjusted before adjusting the zones in the Fuel Table.   The value of Master is the injector pulse width (in milliseconds) that results if the active zone of the of the Fuel Table is set to a value of 100 and the manifold absolute pressure is 100kPa. This does not include any other enrichments or trims.   Increasing the Master value increases the injector pulse width and hence the amount of fuel injected into the engine. However, changing Master DOES NOT change any value in the Fuel Table or any other fuel adjustments. It is therefore possible to achieve the same tune with a smaller Master and larger Fuel Table numbers as when using a larger Master and smaller Fuel Table numbers.   Note: It is recommended to use a Master value which results in the rows in the middle of the Fuel Table having zone number values around 50 with the desired air/fuel ratios.  Â

Hi Ash Good to see you got it sorted. Arts The IAT will default to 20 if no sensor is connected. I would be tracing the wiring through and checking the adapta jumper settings if you are running one. Simon

Sadly there is not a way of changing the look of PCLink. Simon

Your ignition wiring should be correct. The Injection wiring is not critical as it is running in group fire. It sound like you are now at the point of giving the ECU / engine a good tune. Make sure you have gone through all the setup steps including setting the TPS and doing a MAP cal. Simon

Hi John. Sounds like the ECU needs a good tune. Where abouts are you located and we can point you to a good tuner that will know there way around one of these older ECU's Simon

100 RPM would be a little low and it should be stable. I would be looking at the trigger very closely given what you are seeing with the RPM. Simon

A standard USB A-B cable is all you need.