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Everything posted by Simon

  1. I would tune the engine as per normal using MGP for the main fuel axis (assuming mild cams and not ITBs) Tune for the max boost you are ever likely to run and then you can mover the boost from nothing to full with no worries. For the Ignition MAP would be the preferred option.
  2. Simon

    Monsoon sr20det trigger

    If you start at a offset of -100 that should be a good spot to start from.
  3. For 1. If you have the ability to get the PC connected when its a no start that will give some clues. If there is no RPM signal at crank then that adds to the likeliness it could be a crank or cam. 2. Fitting the stock ECU might help but not sure on how much the ABS shared info with the stock ECU.
  4. That one needs the CAM sync.
  5. Assuming you are on the base map and wiring is stock neither of those will be an issue when it comes to starting. You will however have to change the trigger settings to suit the Kiggly 12 tooth crank trigger. The cam wheel for trig 2 will also need a tooth removed. Trigger Mode will need to be changed to Multi tooth. And settings for trig 1 set to the 12 tooth crank and trig 2 to CAM x1
  6. Simon

    Running Rich

    To confirm if the issue is internal put a volt meter between an ECU ground pin and the 14V in back probing the header and check if meter matches ECU or not.
  7. Keep it to under 500mA and you will be fine on the 5V out. Yes the ground is common.
  8. Trig 2 falling to rising is worth a shot. I suspect its not going to be better but it is something you can try easy
  9. You could try changing the edge on trig 2 but that trigger scope looks almost spot on to what is expected. (EZ30 differs in polarity but falling edge is in same spot)
  10. The EZ motor needs the 12V the EJ sensors shown above are different to your application. You need 12V supply
  11. Simon

    Monsoon sr20det trigger

    One possibility is you are 360 out on the offset so you are firing on the exhaust stroke. The other is the fuel needs adjusting to get it to fire.
  12. Being plugin start with the V7-9 map as this will have the I/O configured correctly. Then change the triggers to suit the later motor.
  13. When PC link was installed did you put it in the default locations?
  14. Link G4 Wiring and Installation Manual.pdf
  15. Good work not an easy task adding a tooth.
  16. It could well be hardware related. As the ECU temp rises it will expand and if there is a suspect joint its likely to cause issues. There is no firmware control around temp on the Ignition switch input
  17. There might be others that have this down.But I know on some of the earlier BMW applications the BMW mini can stream worked for a lot of the dash data. (e46)
  18. Simon

    R33 GTST IAT wiring

    Temp 1 and 2 have selectable pullups 3 and 4 don't. But if your temp is reading correct you are good to go
  19. Simon

    Can message id

    The Id is user defined. The stream layout can be found in the PC linkhelp file. There are a few different options. Navigation: G4 ECU Tuning Functions > CAN > Device Specific CAN Information
  20. Simon

    G4x xtreme

    Will be a slight increase in price. Trim correction is on the wishlist so not there currently but likely to happen.
  21. Just need to have installed in the ECU. You can check current firmware but connecting to ECU and then going to the Help tab and then ECU info.
  22. Aux 11, through to 16 are not connected to an external connector.
  23. Simon

    Another IAT

    You will need a free temp or AN volt channel. On side of the sensor to sensor ground and the other to the input. If using a AN volt you will also need an external pullup to 5V on the singnal
  24. So do you have a serial link currently? (they are still available) Not all G1 units were able to be PC tuned and it is dependent on the firmware. TO check this see if you can see a sticker on the main micro and put those details up and we can advise.
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