Simon

Are the coils smart coils that have the igniter built in? To check measure the resistance between the signal wire and the 12V supply.

You can swap out the sensors no problem and replace with a wideband.

You will need a free Aux output that can then be set as engine fan. This will then provide a ground to turn on a relay that controls the fans. Pin 9 might be a good option if you are not running AC.

Map attached BMW E36 G4X Xtreme Plugin.pclx

The G4 is able to support basic CAN. (have to run fixed can streams) Early units need hardware changes to enable it (pre 10000 serial) But it will be fine for coms to the AIM.

The button would be wired to a Di, That Di is then assigned to control the Launch control function. A very simple setup shown below switch would have to be active for 1 second to turn on the launch control limit of 4000rpm

That is good news. Thanks for reporting back.

Im not 100% sure on this but I suspect it will need stock ECU back in.

If you are running the injection test function and only get 1 pair operating then check the power supply to the 2 pairs that are not working and check the continuity back to the ECU. Are the injectors off all the time or stuck on? If they are stuck on then likely a damaged injector drive

With low impedance injectors the ballast resistors are required as the plugin ECUs do not support peak and hold operation.

Aux 1-8 would be suitable and have week internal pullups. Just set the AUX to GP PWM and configure to suit.

Having not done any testing on the later cars its a little hard to answer. The coils likely improved and generally this required lower dwell times.

Hi Good spotting, this will be corrected in a coming release.

The X just uses the Multi tooth mode. Set tooth count to suit and if no sync set trig 2 sync mode to none.

In Opto/hall mode the arming voltage is not applicable as this applies only to reluctor sensors. The ECU is looking for a 0-5V square wave. You could check for this by turning the motor over by hand and see if you can see the voltage changing on the two trigger inputs with a volt meter. The change in voltage should then match teeth positions as they pass the pickup.

Your trigger scope indicates you have a VR sensor on the crank. Change the Trig 1 to Reluctor sensor. Currently on trig2 you just have noise. Is there a sensor wired?

Your trig 1 and 2 inputs need to be swapped over. The 4 way dip switch on the board does this. You just need to reverse the positions.

You have two aux outputs assigned as Tacho. You have the one on Aux 4 which would be correct for your application. But you also have one set on Aux Ign 5 If you set Aux Ign 5 to off and store all should be good.

The settings around the fan control are all user adjustable. When you say lag is it that the fans are coming on at a hotter temp that stock?

To use the stock wheel without a cam sensor the option would be to remove 1 tooth to make it a 12-1 wheel

Its a non VVT setup. Trigger mode will need to be changed as you have a 12-1. Mode will need to be multi tooth missing.

I would tune the engine as per normal using MGP for the main fuel axis (assuming mild cams and not ITBs) Tune for the max boost you are ever likely to run and then you can mover the boost from nothing to full with no worries. For the Ignition MAP would be the preferred option.

Correct

If you start at a offset of -100 that should be a good spot to start from.

For 1. If you have the ability to get the PC connected when its a no start that will give some clues. If there is no RPM signal at crank then that adds to the likeliness it could be a crank or cam. 2. Fitting the stock ECU might help but not sure on how much the ABS shared info with the stock ECU.