Simon

Which model car is this in? The sw20's factory wiring has the radiator fans controlled independently from the ecu - non AC models its just a temp switch in the radiator, AC models its a temp sensor that feeds back to the AC module and this controls the rad fans.

Okay so there are a few stages to setting it up.
 
 
1. Wiring
Run one wire to the knock1 or knock2 wire on the link loom, and one to sensor earth, polarity unimportant. must must must must use shielded wire. The knock sensor outputs a very low voltage signal that's prone to interference.
2. Initial settings
Since you are using the 'wideband' knock sensor and an engine with an ~86mm bore has a knock frequency in the ~6khz range select your Freq Channel as 4-10khz Wide Band.
Set Ignition Retard limit to 0 degrees.
Set the RPM high and low lockouts however you like. (500rpm likely not ideal for the low setting)

 

3. Cylinder balancing
Your knock sensor is mounted closer to one cylinder than the others. It picks up vibrations, so the vibrations from that one cylinder will give a stronger signal than the others.
So what you need to do, is hold the motor at say 4000rpm (no load) and check the signal strength of each cylinder.
You can check the signal strength by pressing F12 to get to the runtime values screen and looking at these numbers, knock level cyl 1/2/34

 
 
See how in that example above, the numbers are 235 / 160 / 255 /145. You need to get these numbers as balanced / equal as possible.

You can adjust the values up or down by tweaking the numbers up and down in Knock control > Cyl setup > Cyl 1/2/34 knk level gain
 

 
 
Best to start with a value of 1 for the cylinder that's closest to the knock sensor, and increase the other values to suit. If one of the values reaches '2' (maximum) you can reduce some of the other numbers to less than 1.
4. Non knock noise levels
Since the knock sensor picks up vibrations, there are of course vibrations happening even when there's no knock. As RPM increases, the amount of 'natural' background noise increases too.
The ECU can tell that knock is happening, because there's an unexpected large spike in the 'noise' from the motor around the time of the iginition event. Soooo, you need to find out what the background noise level is for your engine.
According to the manual, a 2 row table with full throttle and 0 throttle is sufficient but this is up to you and how long you want to spend on it haha.
So head to Knock control > Knock target, right click on the table and select Axis setup to define your table similar to this (if you want)
 

 
Then you need to run a datalog through the rpm range at full throttle to see what the values are for this table. (and coast back down off throttle for the zero TP target, although I'm guessing not much knock happens at 0% throttle)
Open the datalog and bring up a screen to show engine rpm and the knock level global.
Knock level global has a maximum value of '1000'. If you find that you are hitting 1000, you need to reduce the Gain Channel number on the main knock sensing setup page to something a bit lower and try again. Remember that the '1000' has to be the maximum even including allowance for knock which is much stronger signal than the background noise so you need to allow headroom for that too.
 

 
Once you've established these background noise levels for the motor in your table, increase all of the numbers in the table by 20% to give it a bit of a margin against picking up normal engine noise as knock.
At this point, because you've set the maximum ignition retard to 0 degrees in your first step, the ECU isnt taking any action against knock.
Now that you've got everything setup though (unless I've missed a step here, haha) you can turn the knock sensing on by setting an ignition retard limit here, to say 3 degrees or 5 degrees or whatever you want:

Then as per reccomendations from the manual, it's best to test that knock sensing is working under a scenario that minimises risk of damage to your engine.
So you could drive along at low load / low rpm and induce knock by creeping the timing forward until it knocks and you can see from the runtime values table (F12) that it's working.
From here, it should all be working awesomely. (No responsibility taken for blown up motor though! This is just what has worked for me)

Hopefully it all makes sense though
Where are you based / what is the car used for? 
Keen to hear how you get on.

Hi, 
On the default settings I've broken a few sets of E-throttle gears, and I've seen a few other people mention similar. 

(I've busted 3-4 gears already)

So I've been looking at ways to mitigate this. 
Initially I started just looking at the throttle mapping itself, setting the max and min to 2% and 98% so it's not trying to bang into the end stops.
But then realized that the e-throttle clutch can be used to help as well, by softening the clutch near the end stops. 

So I'm using a table like this, and havent had any breaks since: 






Perhaps it might need fine tuning on an individual basis to make sure it's not slipping too much near the extremities, but it's tested as working well tracking to its target even with high motor DC / fast accel/decel rates.

On a kitcar application I would suggest going for a wirein unit the likes of the G4+ Fury being an idel pick for that application.

Try these:
 
r31 New CAN.rcg R31 New CAN.pclr

It is not easy at the racepak end as they arent very configurable.  We can possibly repurpose one of the channels you are not using.  If you attach your ecu and dash config I should be able to have a go when I get a minute.

You can show it as a 0-100 figure via a AN volt and a cal table.

Jump on and download the PC link tuning software. The help file will have 99% of your questions covered.

Not likely to cause an issue. 
 

Yep that will do as a start and we can do a trigger capture if needed to refine that

Jump on and download the PC link tuning software. The help file will have 99% of your questions covered.

Make sure to change over the spark edge too for the K20 coils.
 

Check the ground and power supply to the sensor is good. 
 

I think I would avoid that, it looks very suspicious.  Look at the main connector, it is missing the housing and looks like the wires are attached directly to the pins??

There is no cuts or limiting out of the ECU so can rule out any limits. As CJ pointed out that ignition timing is odd and should be corrected. 
Fuel flow has been checked? Pump is running?

You will need a non driven speed assigned but this can be the same input as the driven.

Yes they are identical to the MAC valve.
PC Link tuning software > Help > Wiring Information > Miscellaneous Diagrams > Wastegate plumbing

If you are measuring that voltage drop across the relay and using the same ground for each measurement then it is not ECU related. There is something up in that relay area.

Adam
Dear LINK staff
PCLink G4 V5.6.7.3630 English / Japanese
Thank you for taking action with the new firmware.
I updated to the latest firmware and confirmed that the engine works well.

I am sincerely grateful.

The plugin base map packaged with the PC link download would be a perfect starting point for that.

Yep that would be fine 

Multi point group injection mode.

Its a G4+ so you will ned the latest PC link which is currently 5.6.6
http://www.linkecu.com/pclink/PCLink G4+ EN-JP V5.6.6.3601 Setup.exe

We will need to identify the generation of ECU as a first step.
As there is different software for the different generations. 
A photo of the unit with lid off would be the best bet to identify it.

The switch could be wired to a Di and then that will activate a AUX out to switch the solenoid. 
Should work well.