20v Jim

Thanks for reply Simon Jim

Installing a Fury ECU to a 1997 VW GOLF VR6 12v Turbo . The Throttle body is a Cable operated type but with DBW Idle control. It has 2 position tracks , 1 for TPS and 1 for Idle motor position , There is also an idle switch wire that could be used. Has anyone configured a link Fury to run this type of Throttle body ? Can it even run this TB ? I would really like to try and get it to work as the early 1.8t 20v AGU engines use the same style TB. Cheers Jim VR6 Golf 1997.pdf

Both problems now fixed , and both school boy errors on my part !!! First, the ecu was getting power from a faulty relay, if you unplugged the ecu connector and probed from inside it would show 12+volts , but connected and back probed it was less than half battery voltage, bumping up the voltage via a power supply would just be enough to power the ecu up . New ignition switch supply to the ecu , job done ;-) The trigger fault was down to using the wrong trigger wheel / sensor combination. The Crank trigger is a GT101 hall effect and I was trying to use 36-1 wheel that would normally be used with a Reluctor set up . The tooth thickness and spacing is completely wrong for the hall effect sensor and when scoped you would only see the missing tooth edge and not the other 35 teeth !!!! quickly changed the sensor to a reluctor type and it now sync's fine and I get a spark at the coils ... . The trigger scope in the link works really well , its a great feature and helped find the problem . thanks Link ;-) Cheers Jim

I have same Axis problem on a Fury ecu . -79, -69, -59 etc Regards Jim

Hi , I'm install a Fury ECU to a SR20DET S14. I have two problems I Need help with. The first and most important at the moment is the ECU doesn't always power up with key on !! ( no blue light ) I have 12volts at pin 5 and grounds all good, all anti theft and ecu holds are off ,but if I have the ignition on for about 1 min then cycle the ignition the ecu does not power back up !!!! leave it for 5 mins and it will power back up again!! If I connect a power supply to the battery set at 14.2 volts , the fault does not happen. Every now and then with the ignition on the ecu will reset itself and the fuel pump will prime again . 2nd problem is I'm using a custom crank and trigger setup with a 36-1 wheel and a single tooth wheel on the cam , both using Hall effect sensors. ECU is seeing both sensors but I can not get them to sync. I get an rpm reading if I turn the cam( trigger 2 ) off. I sometimes get a reading if I crank it over with the spark plugs out and with cam on , but not every time!! Coils fire fine on the output test but I've not yet seen a spark during normal cranking. I'm a bit more concerned with the ecu powering fault at the moment . Any advice or help would be very much appreciated Jim

I have seen this on single coil on plug , but running in pairs off one driver. I bet if you used a proper wasted spark coil pack you wouldn't have the problem. Try swapping the coils about and see what happens!! see if the advance moves with the coil! Jim

Hi all, I need to run a V44 on my VW 2.0l TSI engine along side the standard Bosch Direct injecton ECU and would like to know the If using the same crank trigger is a good idea? We have done something like this before with a V88, but the Factory ecu was there just to keepn the dash and abs happy. That worked fine, But this time the original ECU will running the engine and the Vipec will be used as an additional fuel controller, boost controller, output driver and data logger. I really would like to know if this a bad idea or common pratice and the reasons why?. My reason for me to use the same sensor would be incase the sensor failed the engine would shut down or go into limp mode!! (Good in my eyes). If using seperate sensors for each ecu and say the Vipec one fails, its goodbye engine without the extra 250bhp's worth of fuel!!!!! Thanks in advance Jim