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art leong

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  1. I have used it for drag racing with a transbrake button for activation. I did away with the transbrake, put in a line lock and use it that way (same button) With the brake I was launching at 4500 to 5000. with the linelock I launch at 3300. Much easier on drive line parts. I had some troubles using the advanced mode. But they cleared up when I turned off advanced mode.
  2. It goes rich when I release the launch control button and start to move. When I'm on the launch control it shows lean. Because it cuts a random cylinder out creating unburned oxygen. On my good runs it would go rich for a very small section of time, now it stays rich for over 2 seconds. In my carbureator days, accelerator pumps made the mixture rich till it got moving. Now I launch at 100% throttle position. So the acceleration enrichment doesn't come in to play. I'm looking at the probability of a problem in the torque converter. Stopping it from multipling torque. And putting an excessive load on the engine. Till I get some wheel speed, then it takes off and runs great. My 60 foot elapsed times are 4 tenths of a second slower than the best times. And the car doesn't start to really accellerate till about 100 feet. I'm pretty much done for the rest of the season. I'm going to get O2 bungs welded to the other 3 header tubes. So I can move the sensor around to see if all are close.
  3. I am running 2 wide band O2 sensors on the 4 cylinder drag race car naturally aspirated, no nitrous, just racing fuel. One an Innovate LC1 is located about 15 inches from the #4 exhaust port (I use analog Volt 2 for this one). The other an AFX unit is located in the common collector ( aft of all 4 exhaust tubes merge ). About 6 inches from the end of the collector. It uses analog Volt 4. The AFX unit is usless at an idle due to it's proximity to clear air (using a big duration, long overlap cam shaft). My problem is when I leave the starting line. The sensor in the collector shows a very rich condition as low as 9.5 afr. The other sensor (Innovate) stays at 14.0 or so for a second or 2. I have recalibrated them and changed the sensors (they take different sensors). With no changes. I've been told that the AFX sensor is much faster to change than the Innovate sensor. Once in high gear both sensors are close (13.2 and 13.5 on a good run) One big question I have for you tuners is should the motor go way rich when leaving the starting line? It stays rich for about 2 seconds. I'm using an automatic trans with a torque converter, and I think the sprag in the converter is broken. Causing no torque multiplication. Once I get some wheel speed the motor takes off and runs fine. Attempts to lean it out at the launch rpm 3000. seem to slow it up. Should a motor go rich when launching? I think about diesels that blow black smoke when starting to accelerate.
  4. Thanks for that. I want to be able to go back if I screw it up. Now I'm going to change it and try it in the garage before I put it on the track. I don't have a plenum, just four throttle bodies with runners going to the intake side of the head. I made a vaccum plenum using a piece of square tubing 1" x 8" and connecting the runners with vuccum hose. I even tried a cannister with a restrictor on the outlet side to smooth out the signal. It helped but the map signal still jumps up and down.
  5. One other question. If I change the axis. And I have a saved program if I put the program in will it revert back to the old axis?
  6. Thanks. I idle off of the air that leaks by the throttle plates. At idle the map sensor bouces between 75 and 80 kpa's. I figure to use those fuel numbers to start with. And gradually increase them till wide open. One of the things I'm not sure of is the throttle plates (TPS) show zero when starting. Should I open them a touch when I start it? I'll datatlog a start to see what the numbers are when starting. Is this the proper way to do it?
  7. I'm going to change my fuel and ignition programs. From a MAP/RPM axis to a TPS/RPM axis. I basically a greenhorn when it comes to setting up a fuel or ignition map. But I know how to physically do it. It's for a naturally aspirated 4 cylinder neon with an auto trans with 4 individual throttle bodies. The map signal jumps around until I get to wide open throttle. So the plugs foul when driving around the pits. Any tips? Things I should watch out for? Thanks.
  8. I run ITB's on my naturally aspireated Neon. Even with 2 vacum canisters the map dances between 70 kpas and 75 kpas at idle with throttles closed. I'm going to change from a Map axis to a TPS axis When I get it running again ( presently found some mechanical problems) Please post what you have done. Thanks
  9. It probably isn't your problem. But I had a hard time remembering to hit store. I would hit enter. And forget to hit F4 to store to ECU.
  10. Are the numbers for the Trigger arming in the Runtime values. the actual voltage? Or the threshold arming voltages for the rpm it is at the time? The voltages I see displayed are quite different compared to my (cheap) multimeter. Sorry for the dumb question but I'm learning.
  11. I checked the AC voltage coming from my crank sensor (it is a CPS reluctor pickup from a Honda S2000) It reads from 12/13 volts at an idle (900 rpms) to 25 volts at 6000 rpms. What values should I put in the trigger arming threshold table? 7 seems to be the highest it will allow. Would it be benificial to use a different pickup?
  12. Thanks Simon. That seems to have been the problem. It was jumping about 18 degrees and I have a 20 tooth wheel (18 degrees). It went up the track like it was significantly retarded. I moved the trigger wheel a few degrees. And It seems much more stable. The help on here has been outstanding. I don't have anyone in my area that works on these ECU's. So it's been a learning experience. I hope others on here been helped as much as I have. My crank sensor voltage and threshold. Is my next question
  13. art leong


    I was trying upgrade one of my laptops. And it gives me a message that, "files corrupted obtain a new file" I uninstalled all my Vipec files from my laptop thinking I would have a clean start. But no help. What am I doing wrong?
  14. My arming voltages are high up to 22 volts ac at 6000. At idle 900 rpms it's at 14 volts ac. On the voltage threshold I can only set them to 7 volts. The sensor I have worked before I changed trigger wheels. Same diameter and same tooth count. And upgraded the firmware. One thing I've noticed is that the timing seems to jump around even when calibrating I have a mark at 20 degrees and the reference timing is at 20
  15. I put a new trigger wheel on. Same size as the old one 20 tooth. I went to a race and the car lacked power. Checked everything I could. It idles fine. The only 2 abnormalities were trigger errors. I started with 8 (probably from the burnout) Went from 8 to 21 during the run another 20 stopping. In the past I might see 1 or 2 trigger errors in a weekend. I'm using the same pickup (magnetic reluctor) in the same bracket. The other was I run 2 wide bands AFR sensors. One is in the header collector about 8" from the end. It does not read much till you get over 4500 rpms. The other in in the header pipe from #4 cylinder about 12" from the head. This one I used basicilly to check AFR at lower rpms. When I looked at the last datalogged run. It showed a pretty much higher AFR than the one in the collector. On previous runs it would show 13.5 or so about the same as the other one. But on the last run it was higher (about 14.5). I'm wondering if the trigger errors could have caused this? One thing I did change was the air gap for the reluctor It was set at .050" with the new wheel it was set at .030" I did not change filter or arming threshold numbers They are, filtering level 1, Arming threshold 0=.02, 1000=.09, 2000=.06, 3000=.06, 4000=2.3, 5000=3.9, 6000=5.6, 7000=7.3
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