Gsab

Relay switching is a killer, considered going PWM here ? I was banging 2x Alfa 156 fans on through relays, eventually did the alternator in. Went PWM and not looking back at all. Just a suggestion .

I need to know what kind of cut and blip strategies are possible to implement on Link? Today at 14:54 14:54 CANformance Engineering Hi, Checked through Link software and it looks like we can do a somewhat decent control. The things that seem to be missing, which would be nice to have, is the opportunity to adjust blips and cuts "analogically" through requests from the CAN-bus instead of just having Link do gear-based amounts of cuts/blips. CANformance Engineering CANTCU sends out various requests during shifts depending on rpm differences, driving situations, speed changes etc, and thus, it would be nice to utilize those. CANformance Engineering But if you have the possibility to relay me through to Adam at Link, we sure can discuss it with him Any way we can get in touch with you via e-mail Adam ?

Adam, I may have found a gearbox controller that would not necessitate me selling my Thunder. One unknown though is that the throttle blips, engine revs sync. and engine speed need to be output to the controller and visa versa. All via Can. Is this something that the Thunder could do ? I am a Can vegetable so would not know. The unit is CanTCU made by CANformance Engineering. Your input here please. My discussion with them on messenger below. Hi! Thanks for the inquiry. We haven't checked yet how versatile the Link ECU CAN-settings are, in other words, if it's capable of doing blips/cuts/revmatching through CAN-bus requests, we probably can make it work. Which model DCT are you running? F-series or E-series? We will have a small black friday -sale coming up, nothing crazy though, a little discount. We have controllers available for immediate dispatch. Prices and shipping costs are visible in the webshop at www.canformance.net/shop

So would gearbox control...

The std offset for the PRP pro trigger is 287 deg.Hope this helps.Yes, its fixed offset.

Password protected-cannot see data.

I did not, will be making a heat sink for it as well as mounting it in some cold airflow area. I am running the twin fan unit from the old Alfa Romeo 156... These things were diabolical when hard switched, the reason I am now going PWM control. What is your opinion on driving 2x controllers with one PWM output ?

Thank you, I actually had this table from the old G4 post you did many moons ago. I have not yet done wheel speed , just fitted new sensors in December, wiring to be done. Ive stuck with my plain little table and it is working well. As Adam mentioned above, it was as simple as getting the ETC "greater/lesser than" setting correct. A sly little setting was the 50deg C ETC threshold I put in, would run the fans from cold until 50 deg, switch off and then start following the table data I had set. Put this to 0 deg and sorted. At temperature all is fine but for the control module going into thermal protection and shutting down. Disconnecting one of the two fans sorts that out. I shall get a Nissan Infinity module, same as Lancer locally and run two units. Is the PWM ecu out impedance critical? As in can I series connect on PWM Aux to both controllers ? Cannot get my head around that one yet. But yea, very pleased with the effort and thanks to all for the help. :-)

Yup, done that, thanks. The Audi question was a legit query. I also have my RB34 Navara with Thunder as well, wanted to see if I could make that work.We do not have the Lancer here, so parts for the S14 were brought in from NZ. I only got the one controller.

Reckon the voltage fluctuation is linked to the idle oscillation issue..I would not hassle too much about that.

Aah, thanks Adam. The Audi B5 type unit requires an additional RPM input, would this possibly work by feeding it a tacho input or even a field coil input from the alternator ?

I posted in the G4 section. Controller is same as Mitsubishi Lancer PWM controller. Advice please, just fitted the same as above PWM controller today. Thunder Ecu Aux 2 -Constant Freq. 3.9kHz Cond. 1 and 2 Switch cond 1- ECT. Ect greater than 70 Deg C. Switch cond 2 - Rpm above 500. Two dimensional table setup as ETC vs RPM. 50 to 120 deg C- 500 Rpm and above. 100% below 80 deg C, 90 %, 70 %,50 %,10 %and 5 % for the next few 10 deg increments. All active above 500 Rpm. No joy in getting this working. Controller is brand new and is defaulting to max on when PWM wire is disconnected . Fan starts ramping up to full speed from cold start up, does switch off when ignition is switched off.

Advice please, just fitted the same as above PWM controller today. Thunder Ecu Aux 2 -Constant Freq. 3.9kHz Cond. 1 and 2 Switch cond 1- ECT. Ect greater than 70 Deg C. Switch cond 2 - Rpm above 500. Two dimensional table setup as ETC vs RPM. 50 to 120 deg C- 500 Rpm and above. 100% below 80 deg C, 90 %, 70 %,50 %,10 %and 5 % for the next few 10 deg increments. All active above 500 Rpm. No joy in getting this working. Controller is brand new and is defaulting to max on when PWM wire is disconnected . Fan starts ramping up to full speed from cold start up, does switch off when ignition is switched off.

Link G4 Thunder. I`m finding that the fuel pump prime will prime the pump set to 5 seconds but after the 2 or 3rd attempt it will not switch the pump relay. I need to crank 3 or 4 times as I am running a mechanical main pump and simply use the lift pump to get fuel up front. Is this normal?

Further to this topic, bought and installed these Bosch injectors to my RB motor. When I opened the Bosch injector packaging and saw these little baby injectors I was taken aback a bit. They have this extended "tube" as per above pic. Thought of now having to purchase extenders etc to make them for on the RB engine. Fitted one and hey, not bad I thought. That tube extension is perfect for an RB ! Injector when seated sprays directly into air stream. It sits a mm or two below the injector exit in the manifold. I previously had DW M1000 injectors on the engine. When I took the Greddy intake off , fuel literally dripped out of the manifold. The DW injectors sprayed down the manifold "tube" hole which is probably 20 to 25mm.Some of the sprayed fuel had to hit the inside and just puddle or go into a liquid state. I m using the Hypertune/PRP fuel rail. Simply took the spacers out and bolted everything right up. No mods and stuff.. Massive difference in the engine from start up , idle all the way to red line. And the above dead times are working a treat for me.

Aha....thank you. Trying to learn the product as much as I can..

Mind sharing as to how you saw the data ? Your step by step procedure ? Obviously I had the cat by the balls ...

There is no data in the attachment that I can see..

Ya, definitely 16bar. Have tried the above and sitting on 27 kpa with no pressure. 32 on the oil pressure. Thanks, Ill fiddle....

Need help in setting up a cal table for the above 16 bar pressure sensor please. Thunder ecu, used for oil and fuel pressure. Are they linear in output ? If not, any cal tables available for them ? Thank you.

Cannot confirm those but also looking for the same data for the same injector. Should I find anything I shall post up here. Bosch can also not help with that kind of data. You running Traditional or modeled ?

I too am battling the dreaded "heat soak" start problem. To the point that if I need to stop before getting home I take another car. I am using a mechanical fuel pump on the RB with surge tank in the engine bay supplied by the in tank lift pump. Up to now I have put the blame squarely on the mech pump and fuel boil off within the rail. It gets bloody hot ! Data logs however show fuel pressure at hot cranking so it should start. Is there a way of increasing ign. on prime beyond 5 seconds ? Thunder ecu. Thanks for the added feedback here, will play in this direction and see.. *I have new respect for the std RB starter motor !! *

Thanks for the feedback Adam. Ok, I shall play settings further and see where I need to go. I am currently using your recommended 0.01 and it does seem fine. I will see how a cal goes with 0.01 today although I have used it as a default input previously when trying an auto cal. Thanks for the input.

I have been battling the "error 16 -cannot reach 98% throttle open" problem for 3 weeks now. E-mails to Link and a lot of fault finding on my side. Re checking wiring, pins, crimps, plugs , a NEW friggen t/b at a hell of a price, playing settings and all sorts. Manual calibrations do not solve the problem either. 3 weeks of crazy thoughts and a bald head where once I grew hair ! Simon-thanks Simon- notes that I had set the integral gain to zero on the t/b setting. Yea, it works well for my setup I reply. Not having any previous DBW settings experience I steadfastly stick with my zero integral gain setting. However, today I throw caution to the wind-actually I said fukkit, and set up wayward settings. Followed live logging and set integral gain at 0.5. Did a cal and the fkr worked and calibrated perfectly ! Check the live logging and start the engine and again I need to set integral gain to zero which I do. NO more error 16 issues ! So settings that may give you the best for the engine does not necessarily suit the calibration parameters. If this can help one single person , this post has been worth it. Thanks for the help Simon.

Yes, I was. Crank trigger was perfect, cam sync was gone.