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Posts posted by llabmik2

  1. 1 hour ago, Confused said:

    You'd not get the trimming, but my initial thoughts is that you could potentially set one output up as a GP PWM output, with a 3D table. You could use this as your low pressure WGDC table, and then use specific WGDC tables, trims etc to tweak your high pressure accordingly.

    Didn't think of that. That would work no problem though.

  2. Would it be possible to add the ability to control either two 3 port or two 4 port boost controllers with two separate WGDC maps for compound setups? That way you can run your high pressure turbo up to like 30psi, and run the low pressure turbo at like 20psi, without using a manual boost controller on either one of them.

  3. llabmik2, nice build and so good result and flat curve with smoothing 0. I like it

    Thanks. Lots of time into the map. AFR is locked in pretty well, after lean spooling it, it flattens out and stays there. Timing is also very smooth. I like to tune cars that not only make power but run smooth also.

    I havent played with many turbo cars to speak from experience but I have heard a few very experienced tuners say on a reasonably powerful turbo car, using DBW for slip control doesnt work well.  I suspect because you have to close the throttle a long way to get a relatively small torque reduction it becomes a big lazy control loop.  I know some that have incorporated popping open the BOV (usually with CO2) to get a quick torque reduction.

    Hmmm. Never thought about it. I know the spark cut on the current traction control works well and works fast, I was just thinking that for more of a corner carving car, that DBW mapping might work well.

  4. With the drag radials on the front and regular street tires on the back, the targeted slip is 12%. That includes the tire size difference. With 100% traction on low boost the slip is 6% between front and back. So Targeting 12% has seamed to give me the best grip using the acceleration reading. Anymore more and the traction control just wants to go into a cycle. Any less and It doesn't accelerate at hard.


    With the current PID settings, it targets it well and maintains it. I was having a big over shoot when I first started messing with it, It would only overshoot on the initial cut, and it would cut so hard it would then cycle a little then flatten out. Now I can pretty much hold 12-14% solid while spinning depending on road conditions and temperature.

    Only thing I wish could be changed currently would be two things.

    One for traction control. On DBW cars like mine, it would also be awesome to use one of the 3 DBW tables as an overlay with referencing slip to control it even better using spark, and throttle.

    Then on the Rolling Anti-lag (latch rpm) I wish it could be used in conjunction with launch control not one or the other. So I can have LC activating off the clutch switch, and then latch RPM acting off a switch, without having to hook up my laptop to change those settings.

  5. Hey guys.

    Posting up my 643whp Mini build. Not sure if you guys want a long post or just the jist of it. So Ill be short and sweet.


    It is currently the record holding MINI in the world for HP. Would have made more with traction.

    2005 MINI Cooper S

    1.,7L RMW stroker--Carrllio Rods//High Compression coated Arias pistons//RMW billet crank//RMW head//RMW cam//RMW intake Manifold

    JCFab turbo kit using EFR8374 Twin scroll housing dual wastegate and exhaust dump out the hood

    Insane Shaft 1000hp axles

    Quaife diff

    Fic 2150's with a Walbro 450 in tank at 18V and a external DW 350 at 18V Running E85-E100///Static pressure set at 50psi

    Tuned by me on a Vipec I series PnP (Link G4+ now) 

    Car made 640whp at 31psi in 3rd gear at 4600ft of elevation uncorrected. Couldn't keep it from spinning on the dyno. No where on the front of the car to rachet down tight enough. Going to a hub dyno. Shooting for 710-730whp before upgrading to the EFR9174 and shooting for 850whp




    Couple videos

    Testing out the traction control and Rolling Anti-Lag with the Link


    Quick second to third gear pull on MT 225/15 Drag radials




  6. Just wondering if it's a hardware limitation,software limitation or neither and it can be changed in further updates that is the limiting factor in the calibration tables in the analog input directory for readable RPM being limited at 65530. I am running a EFR 8374 on my MINI and want to use the speed sensor and log it with the Vipec. Problem is the translator box is 3K rpm at 0.5v and 190K rpm at 4.5v So its above the limit of what can be read. I would log it on a DI using turbo speed but its out of the hz range of the vipec..




  7. Clear all the codes, then do a TPS cal and a throttle body cal under the throttle menu (Ethrottle setup mode). Then make sure you check to make sure the codes are clear again. Do a store, and then start the car. See if the codes are cleared. I have had one car where I had to do all this and leave it in setup mode for it to work right. As soon as I took it out of setup mode it would throw the code at me again and go into limp mode.

  8. Updated my MINI to the new firmware, as soon as I did that I can no longer log Can Freq/speed on any channel from 1-4. Speedometer works perfect, just gives me all zero's while logging, and in runtime values. Also the Wideband is dropping out. As soon as I go into runtime valves it starts to work again. Then it will randomly drop out again, followed by me going back to runtime to see that it starts working again...its populating values in the runtime.

  9. Eric, have you tried just putting a negative in front of the percent trim. I don't know if it would let you go past 4ms but you could try maybe -50% on the trim this would get you to 2ms.

    I don't have a need to run my injectors down to the 4ms mark at this time, I will when I go to 2K's so I haven't tried it but I have thought about it.

  10. I have noticed on a couple MINI's that I have tuned including my own the tach is accurate at the lower RPM's but when it gets to about 3500+ it start to get inaccurate. This has shown with the use of LC and the motor rev limiter. I have my LC set at 5000rpm the ViPEC reads 4900 to 5050rpm or so while on the 2-step with the computer hooked to it, but the tach is only reading 4K. Then the final rev limiter the tach says that im at 7000ish but I'm tagging the limiter at 8200, the ViPEC is also stating the same, that I am really at 8100-8200.

    Any help with this would be appreciated.


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