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jigga009 last won the day on September 16 2018

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  1. The firmware update on the AEM is not done by the user. The box has to go back to AEM in California for that. You'll need to give AEM a call and go over some debugging steps over the phone with them before they will give you an RMA number. Before sending it in though, you might want to confirm that the unit is not in fact sending data over the 0-5V lines. AEM will likely have you test for that. Confirm that your ECU CAN (i.e CAN1 or CAN 2) line that the AEM is attached to has the correct resistor bridging the end of the wires. As has been mentioned, the ECU has a resistor on its end, but you need to install another resistor on the other end of your CAN line from the ECU. Also ensure that the CAN wires are twisted as suggested. Also ensure that you are tapping into the correct ECU CAN H and CAN L lines with your AEM CAN H and CAN L lines. Other thing I would suggest is to take a look at the Link CAN settings. It is easy to think that you have it set up correctly to receive from the AEM, when in fact you don't. It took me a while to figure this out. If it is not set up for the right frequency, you won't see any of the data that the unit is transmitting over CAN. If I were to take a guess, I'd think that this might be your problem. I also had to modify one of the leads and remove the power and ground wires, leaving just the CAN H and CAN L in the DTM plug. I was then able to attach a small branch to my main CANBUS line from the ECU with corresponding DTM plug. This allows the ability to remove the AEM setup from the main CANBUS line by simply unplugging it from the main ECU CAN line. Something to be aware of with the AEM though is that you won't be receiving any of the trouble codes built into the unit when using it with the Link. You will just have to take a look at the unit itself to know if there is an issue requiring your attention. Pretty much all you will be receiving is the AFRs for each probe and the EGBP. That's all that comes to mind at the moment.
  2. Adam, I have the initial AEM 4CH stream you posted in this thread working on my ECU, but I am unable to see any of the error codes or status data that the AEM also puts out over CAN. I had discussed with you a few weeks ago about somehow getting this stuff going, but at the time, I was having issues with my AEM wideband that we both determined needed to be sorted out. It has since had a firmware update, and I'm ready to try again with regard to having the AEM error codes and status data show up on my G4+, just as it does for my Link CAN LAMBDA. Including a copy of my calibration for your perusal. https://www.dropbox.com/s/9qotsocdkxquej5/Current Map rev 0.77 - with Can lambda and new canbus settings for more parameters.pclr?dl=0 Thanks!
  3. Adam, would it be possible to have a version of the AEM 4 channel streams you made here that allow the AEM widebands to come into PC Link as Lambda 1-4, and have the Can Lambda as Lambda 5? I'm performing a similar install, using Canbus 2 on my ECU where Can Lambda already resides, so will also be reprogramming that to run at 500K just like the AEM, but I would like to have Lambda 1 be cylinder 1, etc. and then have Lambda 5 be my Can Lambda. Thanks in advance!
  4. I know that it isn't directly related to the Link as mentioned, but have you given thought to just pulling the fuel pump relays when the car is left unattended?
  5. As said, it can take quite a bit of patience to get the pins seated correctly before the white tabs lock. I would suggest doing it one wire at a time. Insert one terminal, and then work on the plug until it locks. Once it does, unlock it again, and then insert the next terminal, and work on that until it locks again. I find that a paperclip comes in handy for ensuring that everything is well-seated. I also find that a tiny of saliva/moisture on the body of the pin helps it slide in easier and seat all the way into the plug without the need for as much force. Going one terminal at a time as I suggested ensures that you don't frustrate yourself trying to figure out which of your newly inserted terminals is causing the plug to stay unlocked.
  6. If you want something from Link themselves, I believe this is the link to their unit - http://dealers.linkecu.com/NTC12_2
  7. If you don't have one way valves in your plumbing, you will run into what you are experiencing; extended cranking before starting since the pumps have to build pressure again following the pressure drop off when the pumps stop priming. With the valve in there, the system maintains system pressure for longer following priming, allowing for more instant injection of fuel into the cylinders when you go to crank the engine over.
  8. Your fuel pressure might be dropping as soon as your fuel pumps stop priming. Do you have one-way valves in the plumbing of your fuel pumps?
  9. Interesting tip about getting EGT with the Can Lambda. Had no idea about that feature. I had previously run EGT sensors on the car, but stopped running them a few years ago when a probe snapped off and took out a turbo. Edit - looking at the manual for the Can-Lambda, I'm can't find reference to the ability to measure EGT. Are you referring to probe temperature, as a proxy for exhaust gas temperature?
  10. Thanks for the heads up. It is something that I suspect would drive one nuts, as my current OG AEM UEGO does the same thing when the sensor has some miles on it. The gauge would respond in what seemed like an eternity in response to the throttle pedal. I do currently have an AIM dash, and have the ECU sending the wideband data to it via CAN, so I'm able to skip dealing with a sluggish display. With that all said, the accuracy (or lack there of) of the AEM UEGO is a little concerning, and part of my reasoning to update it. Do you find that your unit suffers from voltage offset issues? From my digging, I did not think that they introduced CANBUS communication on those NGK/AFX units? Thanks Adam. Yes, I do like to measure thrice and cut once! Ended up ordering a Link Canlambda unit, so hopefully that should deal with voltage offset issues and possible questions of whether my wideband is actually doing what it is supposed to be doing. Given the data parameters that the Link wideband is able to send to the ECU, which parameter most directly indicates when the O2 sensor is on its last legs? For all of the discussion regarding warm up strategies and the like with the Link, are you able to comment as to just how closely the CanLambda follows Bosch's recommendation for warm up and use of the LSU 4.9? Have you found Link's warm up strategy to yield noticeable differences in how long the CanLambda can maintain an LSU 4.9 sensor compared to other brands out there, or even older widebands such as the OG AEM UEGO (which also used the Bosch chipset, but with an unknown warm up strategy)?
  11. How long have you been using it? And can you go into why you went with Emtron? What's your burn rate of sensors been like? Is this to mean that you cannot have as many devices using the Can when using the Link compared to the AEM? Or is it that all devices have to be transmitting at the same rate? very interesting point to consider...Thanks!!! The Ballenger is another tempting unit. Used to be huge with the high power Supra guys back in the day. They don't appear to have CAN communication though? my reading also indicated that the NTk sensors, while hearty, are sluggish in the response department. Have you found this to be the case?
  12. Thank a for the response Adam. I have also seen threads on other forums where a lot of what you say comes up. I have been curious as to AEM's dogged insistence that one use their sensors and only their sensors with their wideband. They claim that it is a Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor, but the sensor included with their unit appears to be devoid of the usual markings that would identify the sensor as such. Perhaps users if the AEM could chime in to confirm? And you are right, AEM definitely are not using a Bosch chipset in their x series wideband. Neither does Innovate. I think it was Alan From 14point7 that mentioned something to the effect of the Bosch chipset being the reason why a lot of the widebands on the market making use of that same chip are relatively "slow" to respond. With that said though, Alan did drop a lot of knowledge, and now I know that just because a manufacturer says they use a Bosch chipset does not mean that they are controlling the sensor in the manner that Bosch advocates. There is code that has to be written to control just how exactly the chip is run to control the sensor. This thread on this forum here proved to be a very interesting read for me: http://forum.diyefi.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2267 as they discuss a lot of the widebands available on the market, and even take a few of them apart to discuss what really makes them tick. Alan from 14point7, who makes the Spartan widebands chimes in, as do employees from AEM and Ballanger Motorsports who still produce the AFX wideband chime in at an unofficial capacity to discuss how exactly their devices work. An individual from Ecotrons chimed in also on this thread here http://forum.diyefi.org/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=1033 , but is not met with the warmest reception, given the seemingly deceptive means through which the individual signed up onto the forum to advocate the use of their wideband under different screen names. There is some talk that the Ecotrons units are Chinese-based, but not much more info on that. Still curious as to what they are offering though, given that they are based not too far away from me. A lot of popular widebands are discussed in the initial thread I linked to, but as has been the case in my searching so far, Link's device is not mentioned anywhere, so tough to learn more about it. I have definitely considered 14point7 for a wideband, given that they are based down the road from me, but I still do see slight niggles regarding build quality and some failure right out of the box that cause me to hesitate. Their prices certainly are attractive, especially for their multichannel wideband unit, but I am unsure as to whether they are actually using stock Bosch sensors that I can pick up from a parts store. They mention on their website that their sensor resistors are "calibrated by a third party".... meaning what? Also, I can't seem to find much info on how frequently users might be going through sensors either. Ecotrons appear to now how a wideband that uses the Bosch ADV sensor as the next evolution from the LSU 4.9. Do we know of what advantages, if any, this new sensor has over the 4.9? Just as the 4.9 is supposedly more reliable (although Alan from 14point7 appears to disagree on this) than the 4.2, is thr ADV sensor supposedly even more so? Bosch have a Lambdatronic wideband, which one would assume to be the perfect wideband, given that they make the sensor, know how it should be warmed up, etc. and might actually last as long as the sensor would last in a normal car, but again, very little user info on the thing out there. I can't even find a price posted anywhere for the unit. Does the Link CanLambda still require users to solder a capacitor between the power and ground lines of the unit in order for it to work properly? http://forums.linkecu.com/topic/6663-can-lambda-problem/
  13. Adding some info I dug up on the can-lambda as well as a few questions regarding them: Can lambda is apparently able to transmit to the ecu sensor temperature - is this logged for the purpose of adjusting the ecu map if temperature gets too high? Lambda - no questions here..this is what we are looking to measure... error codes - again, no confusion here, as it tells the user if there is a problem. - controller status - what purpose does this parameter serve that the error code above would not? - pump current - what purpose would knowing pump current serve? - heater average voltage - what purpose would this parameter serve? - Given that there is a calibration available for the G4+ to run the AEM x-series, would this calibration allow the G4+ to receive error codes from the AEM? - Is the Can Lambda able to free-air calibrat the wideband sensor? Asking because my current UEGO does not either, amd I read that it is needed in order to keep the sensor readings accurate as the sensor ages.
  14. I have decided to update a few bits of equipment on my car, and my 12 year old AEM UEGO may be the latest item to be switched out and put into retirement. It currently works okay, and has never given me any problems over the years that I have used it. Perhaps my only issue with it was the tendency to go through LSU 4.2 sensors at what I feel to be a non-OEM rate, and its inability to indicate when a sensor is getting lazy and might need to be put out to pasture. I am also concerned about the possible implications of voltage offset on the safe running of my engine, given that it works in all weather conditions, with different levels of electrical load. My aim for this thread, while to primarily discuss the Link and AEM offerings is also to hear about others that you might highly recommend that one take a look at. My initial thought was to go with one of AEM's X series wideband with LSU 4.9 and connect it to my G4+ xtreme via can bus. I am also looking at the Link unit, but in all my searching of the forum, have not really found a thread that really fleshed out everything there is to know about the Can-lambda. Most of the threads I have seen on it are members advocating the use of the unit, without really saying why it is a better solution over other units out there. - Given that the Can-lambda retails for over twice as much as the AEM X series option (and isn't too far off from Motec LTC4.9 territory), I am curious as to what benefits, if any, there are with the Link device over something such as the AEM x series inline wideband. - Both devices utilize canbus to transmit information. In the context of use with a Link ECU, Is there a significant difference (or something in particular that a prospective buyer might want to pay attention to) in the kind of information that both devices can transmit or receive over can when used with the Link ECU? - I've read that the Link might have the ability to warn the user when the wideband sensor is almost worn out.. is this true? One of my pet peaves with my current 30-4100 AEM UEGO was that the sensor would get rather lazy after less than a year of use, giving me the impression that it is feeding my ECU some rather delayed information, and this is on a car that runs pump fuel exclusively. - I see also that the AEM has the ability to detect errors in the sensor also (encoded into the canbus messaging). Can someone knowledgable in this area confirm whether this messaging is something that the Link ECU would recognize and perhaps display on a race dash? I would ideally like my next wideband to alert me as to when I should be changing O2 sensors in the same manner as an OBD2 car. Not sure if this is something either the AEM, Link, or other wideband does, but it is the dream. Would also like something that doesnt go through sensors at an accelerated rate, especially on just pump fuel use. - Is there any information on how the Link compares to the AEM from a response perspective? The AEM appears to be one of the more responsive wideband out there. Curious as to where the CanLambda comes in within the pantheon of widebands out there. - I have read that the Link has the ability to receive input from the Ecu so as to start operation when a certain RPM has been reached. Is this it something that could be achieved on any other wideband through the use of a relay hooked up to a GP Output on the ECU? - While I am sure neither is 100% trouble free, I have come across a thread on the forum regarding the need for the installation of capacitor between power and ground wiring of the Can-Lambda in order for it to operate properly. Is this still the case, or has a running change been made? - for those with the CanLambda, what has your experience been like with your device? How often are you runnning through Bosch LSU4.9 sensors, and what is your use-case like? Are there any other Canbus wideband setups that you would recommend, and why? Please discuss
  15. Stevieturbo - You are correct regarding the Weldon; my apologies. I knew there was a reason why I ended up with he Weldon pump controller to run the pumps as opposed to using a more crude setup that involved just reducing voltage to the pumps. I too thought the fuel heating issues were a non-issue when I resided in the UK. Once I moved across the pond and experienced heat during summer with a fuel setup similar to what you describe running at 100%, and had to deal with my car suffering from fuel starvation issues in hot weather. Then I opened my eyes and changed my setup. Yes, the fuel system did in fact start off as "simple", with all pumps running at 100%. It was okay in cooler weather, but a different story in hot weather. Update: I figured out the issues last weekend but forgot to post, so here it is...: 1) The wiring on my secondary relay was incorrect. Relay 2 (secondary pumps) was using the same ground as in relay 1, which should not have been the case, as the OEM fuel pump controller uses ground to control when it triggers a relay1 runs its pump. Relay 2 should have been grounded to the ECU AUX1 output all along instead of being wired to receive a high side trigger from the ECU. I have Ducie54 to thank for this one, as I was looking at his labelling for the relays on his schematic, and noticed it differed from mine, so I spent time in the manual for the G4+ to figure out why that was the case. To control relay 1, the the ECU Aux 7 provides a "high side" drive to the OEM main fuel pump relay, which in turn powered the OEM fuel pump controller. This in turn delivers a switched 12V source to the control side of Relay 1. After reading that area a few times, I concluded that the primary fuel system had to be hooked up as if it were a "solenoid" in the manual, while the secondary would need to be hooked up like a normal relay circuit, with the ECU controlling the circuit by grounding it. On the surface, I think my installer made the error of thinking that both relays had to be wired the same way with only difference being where they were sending their power to, so they did things such as allowing both relays to use the same ground through to the stock fuel pump controller. Problem with this was that "staging" worked by running Aux 7 (primary pumps), and then turning off Aux 7 and simultaneously turning on Aux1 which resulted in all 4 pumps going.... Not ideal at all. 2) The "race" power level setting on the Weldon PWM fuel pump controller had to be triggered through a relay, and not directly from the ECU. I read on a Mustang forum from an employee of Weldon that the Weldon pump controller needed to see an actual battery 12V in order to trigger the pump speed increase of the primary pumps. The ECU just was not putting out 12V at the pins on the high side output at the pin. I believe it was 10.X volts I was seeing while in test mode without the engine running. So I installed a relay, sent ground to the ECU output so that it can low side trigger it, and wired the rest of the relay up like I did for Relay 2. And just like that, I can now use "test mode" to alternate between fast and slow pump speeds on the primary side! So now, my fuel system is working and staging as designed. Control logic is as similar to OEM as I can get, with primary pumps running at low speed at low engine RPM and IDC, and then switching to high speed at a certain RPM or IDC, and my secondary pumps kick in full bore at a certain boost level to augment the primary side of the fuel system. This solution ensures little to no noise levels of noise with external pumps with the engine running, low fuel heating issues during the summer months, while maximizing fuel pump life. Thanks to all that spent time helping me with this issue, and thanks also to Jason and ScottC @ LinkUSA for spending a bunch to time helping to brainstorm potential areas to look at and try. I'm sure that Stevieturbo might be curious as to why I retain the OEM stuff to trigger off the primary fuel pump relays in the first place instead of ripping all that stuff out to reduce complication... Answer is that the car needs to retain the ability to return to the stock ECU every once in a while for OBDII emissions testing. The fuel system had to be done in a way that the stock ECU could still communicate with the primary fuel system in order to fuel the car, while working as intended with the Link ECU in place.
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