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Good news, after I finished writing the post this morning my new spark plugs arrived. Just took it for a test drive and it seems there is no break down anymore. I left the plugs at the stock NGK gap of 0.8mm and took for a test drive here where it's hot today (32 degrees). I ran 24psi of boost where I usually have issues and there was no break down. I drove it hard and intake temps were getting up to 60 degrees peak in high speed, high gear pulls so was the best hot conditions to push the engine to blow the spark. Still seem to have rich condition which still could be from bad flowing injector, also not 100% sure about battery voltage at ECU, but at least I know some simple spark plugs have resolved the issue. Time for re-tune to see how far I can push before it breaks down or it knocks I'm not calling it 100% resolved until I can run 24psi on the dyno, as the dyno runs always seem to be worse for the break down on the dyno pulls. Also confirmed after the run battery and alternator voltage was 13.5v at idle and ECU was 13.0v.

Thanks for the reponses Dave. Now that I'm back home I was able to check and fix a few things; The old fused distribution box is now out and replaced with a simple twin distribution post, solid 14.5v across the terminals now @ idle. I'm still seeing a drop from alternator to ECU (i.e - 13.6v @ alternator and 13.1 @ ECU), still some further voltage tests to do on injectors and coils once car warms up I think, not sure what an acceptable voltage drop from alternator to ECU is, also on boost I'm dropping as low as 12.8v @ 23psi - which would be around 13.3 @ the alternator. I also solved the coil wiring/numbering. I had it all correct. The above pictures are incorrect along with all the pin numbers etc, I had a look in a workshop manual of the IS300 (same coil/igniter setup) and also some japanese aristo jzs161 electrical diagrams and coils are number as follows; Coil 1 - Cyl 1 + 6 - Pin 10 on igniter Coil 2 - Cyl 2 + 5 - Pin 1 on igniter Coil 3 - Cyl 3 + 4 - Pin 2 on igniter I made the mistake of assuming the coils were numbered in order, this makes sense now when looking at the igniter and why the coil 2 + 3 terminals are in that order, so no problems there. I might make a diagram to go on my website so others don't have the same issues. Ok so now for the plasma booster. I can confirm it's on the ground side of the coils (Pins 1,2,10 to igniter) and I can also confirm that's what the instructions say. When I purchased it I was after a direct replacement for the HKS DLI (Like most other ignition products it is wired to the postive side of the coil). I'd say I didn't do enough research at the time and got the wrong product. All I'm aware of is that it provides an increase to secondary ignition coil current and is not a spark voltage increase device such as HKS DLI, MSD etc Same issue still exists at the moment, the last thing I'm trying is swapping plugs out for colder ones which I'm waiting to be shipped and also double checking all the main power and earths to the ECU to ensure I'm getting maximum voltage to ECU.

That's a good idea with the paperclip, I will try that once I fix the issue/s I found tonight. The ignition amplifier is an Okada Plasma Booster used to boost ignition coil current (negative side of coil) - http://www.okadaprojects.com/usa/products_booster.htm. I brought this over a DLI at the time as I couldn't get a DLI and had good reviews/feedback from some supra guys in the US, this didn't seem to resolve any ignition issues what so ever from my obserbations! So first I tested from the coilpack ground leads where it meets the igniter connectors; Cranking - dropped to 9.5-9.8v worst for a tiny moment Idle - was around 13.8-14v as expected for each coil Noticed while testing resistance between coil leads and igniter plug that coil 2 & 3 negative wires from igniter go to different coils (they are mixed up) - not sure how much of an impact if any this has but something I'd probably like to fix up! The picture below is what a normal install looks like (not mine) - my coil 2 and coil 3 wires are mixed up. I also tested removing the fused distribution box and am now getting a solid 14v on all circuits, there is no 1v drop from alternator to battery, so that issue was the fused distribution block. A lot of this I probably won't be able to test further until after xmas unless I can get an alternative distribution block from an auto store tomorrow, but not sure what impact this will have if any as the 1v drop seemed to only be on the battery side, I will also re-cal the wideband and set fuel pressure again before testing.

Just realised I will only be able to test at the igniter connector where I have a ignition booster spliced in to each coil wire, only real way for me to test from the actual coil would be strip some wire insulator which I really don't want to do.

Thanks Dave, Will have to test that tomorrow night after work, should be able to get a multimeter probe on the back of the coil pack connector clips for that test. I will also try and join all the wires bypassing the fused distribution box and see if that yields different results too.

Been a few weeks since I could do further testing but took Jason's advice and started looking at voltages. This is my copy and paste from another forum;

ViPEC ECU wiring harness is new and engine harness wiring is in really good condition and tested when I did the install, all unrequired plugs removed etc New coilpack plug clips and coil wiring in good condition, LS2 coils might be the best option for me. Time for a better Clutch mate haha. I have heard that a smart igniter can't be used by a few people but nothing official and doesn't seem like common knowledge, it might be the issue. Haven't had a chance to check voltage against injector/ignition vs ECU, might be worth a check also - thanks for the tip. Thanks for the testing results Scott, these are handy but are for the non-vvti coils and igniter, not sure how much different the vvti units are.

Yeah it seems a little crazy that some are fine and others aren't, I'm not 100% the ignition issues are the problem now. I just spent the day doing some testing; 15psi - no issues 19-20psi - no issues 24psi - Hit the wall @ 5500rpm, bad break up. I've found changing dwell makes no difference really! Pulled the spark plugs and no.6 was very rich and fouled up so I swapped injector 6 and 1, spark plug 1 is now very rich and fouled up. Sometimes AFR's are correct (11-11.5) then other times it's very low 10's (10.0-10.7). So it could be a bad injector, I'm no expert but I assume this could cause a misfire in this cylinder causing all my issues? Didn't expect the ID2000's to have problems from the get go, might be worth getting bench flow tested and cleaned.

Hi, I currently have ignition break up issues on a 2JZGTE VVTi, brand new coils, leads and connectors with anything around 23psi+, seems to get worse as it's warmer. I've replaced the igniter in the past which seemed to improve the issue but it's back again. Without posting all the details here again, I've put a link to a better explination and further details- http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/under-bonnet/81685-2jzgte-vvti-ignition-break-up.html#post1265524 But on this forums I was after any similar issues with Vipec uV88 2jzgte vvti users. Is there a recommended dwell setting for the vvti igniter? Is it a know vvti issue or vvti igniter issue. Is there a 2jzgte vvti coil dwell limit? I know these coils have had great results with 800hp supras running 30psi of boost in wasted spark. My current dwell is 2.4ms from 13-14v using table settings, lower settings make it worse and have tried all different plugs and gaps. Looking at the last potential technical issues before I move to a ls2 truck coil setup with built in igniters. I know Ray hall even changed his coil/ignition setup on his car with this engine and coils so might just be a fundamental issue with the complete setup running higher boost.