Ducie54

I’m sure link used to state on the old g4+ marketing materials that the plug-ins use the xtreme top board. Obviously I’m not going to find it on the link site these days but here’s and old dealer add. Now you can stop hijacking my thread and going off topic. So can I kindly ask that unless you can help me, or work for link. Please piss off your opinion is yours and I don’t care for it. 

You have a plug-in ECU that is designed to work with the factory wiring and factory assigned pin functions.  There are two expansion ports to give more IO and on the GTR generally there are several other spare IO are available such as the MAF and O2 inputs.  We state the expansion IO that is available on the webpage for each specific plug-in ECU, and the plug-in ECU's are priced differently depending  on how much IO they have.  Ie a VR4 ECU is much cheaper than the WRX107 due to the IO available.  The ECU comparison chart here: https://linkecu.com/products/ecu-comparison-chart/ also states on the plug-ins not all IO is exposed.  
The reason we cant have end users messing with PCB's is the PCB design can have a massive influence on the the performance and functionality of the ECU and our reputation has been built on getting that right and that only happens with many years experience.  If for example you took your car to a tuner with your home designed PCB and the tuner found it had 20 deg of ignition scatter (due to say a DI track running beside a trigger track) - the first thing he is going to say is something like "This Link ECU has shit ignition control", it is Link that will get the blame and the reputation wiped out, not the inexperienced PCB designer or invalidated adapter board...  
If you need more IO you can use CAN bus or can return it to us for modification.  
No ecu manufacturer on the planet will give you internal schematics.  
 

Really, I own 6 link ecus, I need access to the unterminated inputs on a product that HAS them and you are not going to give me this information. So that basically now renders this ecu useless to me. I don’t see this as fair. Especially since I’m always telling people to get link over Harlech and have pushed quite alot of people to buy the link. 
good job. 

I would strong suggest if your tuning this yourself to visit.
 https://www.hpacademy.com/
Otherwise find another tuner.

If you put a 100-200ohm resistor between the signal wire and ground that should drop your max voltage down to around 4-4.5V.

CAN wiring something like below.  Sorry for the amature ms paint work.  Obviously you will need to supply Ign switched +12V and ground to both as well.

Disagree, Link already has a whole bench of different wire in ECU's, like no other manufacturer. Price diff is not that biig between Furry and Thunder to add another one. 
2x DBW and only 1x Lambda does not make sense in most applications. 
Thats my oppinion.

To jump in on this I've always felt the advice and guidance from the team (Adam) to be 2nd to none, I've always had the help and resolutions I've needed and would in turn recommend link to anyone. 

Just refund this piece of crap

Im using 2 Emtron dual wide band controllers. I dont have the latest software for them so I have to power them up from a Aux output. They power up after 20sec from ignition on without a CAN signal.
I have CAN set up for errors but it shows just a number. I then have to go back to the manual to work out what it is.
If i was to do it agian I would just buy 4 of the LINK sensors. So much less hassle setting them up. 

Has been released!

Some key functions I'm dead keen on:
Traction Control and Torque Management. More GP Tables Boost Control pressure source selection MAP Sync Fixed the file path directory thing so it's like G4+ again Faster connection speed and faster navigation inside PCLink GP Output On Delay (I'll make a post soon on why this is cool)
Download Here
Release Notes

Add pre prime fuel or increase it. Try lowering your injector timing table values, and make sure fuel rail volume does not drain back to the tank as it will take longer to build fuel pressure. 

Plus your Emap will be higher.

Add pre prime fuel or increase it. Try lowering your injector timing table values, and make sure fuel rail volume does not drain back to the tank as it will take longer to build fuel pressure. 

A basic setup but you get the idea.

Knock threshold would have occurred in a earlier part of the run. It then is applied to that cell each time after unless reset. All in the help file. 
 

You could buy a gauge/dash or even install a tablet that way you could monitor every thing. I take the new X series with the math function would be able to trigger an output based on correction level.
 

A basic setup but you get the idea.

Nope, even easier.  The car has individual throttle bodies with idle bleeds going to a common manifold.  The mechanic who assembled everything left a large (8mm) vacuum port open under bank 1 which caused a huge leak, which he compensated for by adjusting the blades so one bank was completely sealed off while the other was drawing air through the leak.  That bank was getting so much air the car still idled at 1500 RPM with 0 degrees of timing only running on 1/2 its cylinders.
I got thrown off because I didn't realize the lambda heaters needed exhaust temp to help them get to 780 before they'd time out.
Either way I learned something today:  A non-firing bank on Link won't just read "off the scale lean" but will not allow the heater to reach temp in time.
Cheers,
Neel

I would add log status and log memory use to the ECU logging parameters. 

Your current Map and a log file will help tech support with fixing your issue.

In the help file type in Stepper Reset, explains 2 different ways for a reset. 5 sec hold time should be enough i reckon. I would give it a clean first so it give repeatable results.
I would also target a slightly richer AFR at idle until you get the idle sorted .95 is always my start point until i get idle stable.
 

Few things i've noticed
While your dead time are correct you don't have any figures in the SPAT.
You have got the idle stepper reset on key off but don't have a ecu hold time.
 

Although it will run ok with the incorrect wiring, there are two significant negatives in my view:
Because you have had to set the wrong firing order in the software but the injectors are wired "correctly" from the factory, it means your injectors are now firing in a different firing order to your coils so you have lost any performance advantage of sequential injection. It leaves the potential for someone to make a mistake in the future, especially if you want to do individual cylinder trims, knock control and also scenarios like testing injectors/coils when diagnosing problems is going to be difficult to interpret.  It should take less than 10 minutes to swap the 3 pins at the ECU connector so I would strongly suggest you save yourself a potential f*ckup and correct the wiring.  

Having it wired incorrectly will cause confusion when trying to configure knock control.