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  1. Moves slowly, it has a blown head gasket now, I can't test anything right now, for a fix. Not sure if it has always been there, but it has ran good, with this new trigger setup. I don't run this thing much, it's a dyno queen, I do mostly stock ecu stuff, on customers machines, I use this to try things. It's weird that the #1 cyl could be off, and #2 be spot on, seems if #1 is off, #2 would also be off. I guess timing is not calculated like I think it is. Maybe timing is actually retarding? Going all the way around to overlap? Maybe advancing until it flips to overlap? It's been a year since I've ran this, I'm prolly using outdated firmware too.
  2. Hate to resurrect an old thread, but this is tied in with this setup. I have this thing back on dyno, once again, odd fire V2, turbo, burning methanol, runs great until around 6000rpms, then lotsa popping, sounds like a rev limiter, put timing light on it, #2 cyl timing seems correct, where #1 starts to advance up to 45˚, where I have it locked at 30˚, in ecu. No trigger errors, when running, which is normal. It will make errors cranking, if it kicks back, but I've always considered that normal. What could cause ecu (or something) to advance timing? I could see sporadic timing, but not solid advancing. I'm running 2 triggered coils, one for each cyl, could a coil be bad?
  3. I'd say maybe, depending on fuel pressure. I'm assuming turbo? If your setup does not idle, I'd back it down to say an 850 or 1000, as primary, and a 2000, as secondary, see what that does. I'm just going off memory of different setups I've messed with, not using any calculator or anything.
  4. UPDATE: I was having erratic spark, reversed VR sensor polarity, got rock solid timing, with no trigger errors. I adjusted the ignition offset, fired right up. Makes sense about the half moon cam wheel. It does, at times, take a rev or two to fire up, but this is all race, & that doesn't matter too much. I do get trigger errors as it's syncing up, if it winds over much. If it fires right up, I don't get errors. After it's running, there are no errors, as of now. I will be dynoing it tomorrow, see what it does. The 12-1T crank wheel seems to deliver as solid timing as my 36-2T did. I would have never thought that. Will update with any problems that come up, during dyno session.
  5. Here is my PCL file. I have a 12 tooth wheel, 1 missing, 1 tooth on the cam, now, as suggested by Simon. It is not a full half moon, like he said, but it's about 1/2 inch wide, and I am getting trigger signals, both crank & cam, according to the ecu. My spark is erratic, and not in the same place when winding it over with the starter, no plugs in. What am I missing? 1288 turbo.pcl
  6. I have a VR crank sensor, hall on cam. As far as crank trigger wheel, I can make whatever I need, as I have a couple Mitsubishi lasers here in house to cut whatever I need. This is why I am asking what is the perfect setup in this thread. I do have a scope, pc based, works pretty good. I am still not quite understanding how the cam sensor works to sync up. Does the ecu keep up with crank position via crank trigger teeth, then know if it's on compression by the trigger being tripped, on the cam? If so, why does Simon want the cam trigger wheel to be half way around? This would likely work good, but would be a real pain to get balanced, as the cam turns 5000rpms, and a piece of steel half way around would throw it out pretty good.
  7. Ok, I have my engine back together now. I just slapped the 36-2 crank setup on, and the stock cam trigger, just to get it running. I get a lot of trigger errors, and lotsa popping & banging, and, of course, the errors coincide with the popping & banging. All the errors occur at around 5-6000rpms. What I don't understand, is why it runs good, until rpms come up? Why would errors occur at speed? What exactly is a "trigger error"? What is happening that the ecu does not like? I have read & learned a lot about trigger setups over the years, still don't quite understand how they work, & what is an error. Tomorrow, I am gonna put a trigger setup on as Simon suggests, and I hope it runs with no errors. If it does, what have I learned? I would like to try & learn why the ecu likes some triggers better than others, & what are the do's & don'ts of trigger setups. I have read everywhere, and have yet to see anyone elaborate on triggers very much, like what works & what doesn't. Maybe the factory triggers work good because their signals on the factory ecu are handled in a different way? Maybe the Vi-Pec doesn't read the triggers the same way? Maybe there's a better setup on the Vi-Pec that I'm missing? I know the latest thing on factory ecu's is using crank acceleration, & deceleration to calculate where to put the spark. The factory setups are good enuf that they need no cam sensor, on some models, and are non wasted spark. I don't think very many aftermarket ecu's can do this, yet, if any can. I think there is a readout on the Vi-Pec that shows crank acceleration? Or am I misreading something? Is this a coming feature?
  8. Ok, thanks Simon. If I understand you correctly, I would mount a cam wheel that is basically a half moon shape, but the ends of this half moon shape would or could be anywhere, but not occurring when the crank sensor is reading the missing teeth gap. In other words, the cam sensor would need to be halfway in the moon shape, or 180° opposite that,, while missing teeth are going under the crank sensor. I will try this trigger setup sometime along, this is a new engine, having other issues at the moment, gotta pull the engine out now & fix a few things, then back in, with the new trigger setup.
  9. I have a 80 degree, odd-fire V2 engine, 4stroke, it has a 36-2 tooth wheel on the crankshaft (VR), and a one tooth cam sensor (HALL). I had it running on the stock triggers for years, ran great, but I had to change trigger wheels, for reasons not relating to the ecu. My question is, what would be the best trigger setup to fire this thing with? What would be everyone's dream setup, if they were gonna run this? I can make whatever trigger wheels I need, no problem. Should I go right back to stock triggers? I know this ecu can't do wasted in this setup at all, so we need the cam trigger. Right now, I have a 36 tooth wheel, none missing, and one tooth cam sensor, can get rpm signal, but timing is anywhere, when spun over with starter, consistent as long as cranking, but stop cranking, and spark is anywhere. I was gonna do a trigger like this, but it doesn't seem to work.
  10. Definitely uses acceleration, I know the factory coder, works great! Bosch is the mfgr of the factory ecu. If the ViPec could calculate timing by acceleration, it would solve lotsa ignition problems, like sync errors & such.
  11. How about any Can Am products? The newest factory ecu has only one crank sensor, no cam position sensor, and runs a 80° V-Twin, odd fire, four stroke, non wasted spark, and calculate timing by crank acceleration. Can any ViPec ecu's calculate timing this way?
  12. So still no way to run wasted spark, on an odd fire engine? (not counting dual ecu's) Seems like it would be easy, on say a V-twin, odd fire? Where one spark @ TDC, the other at whatever after, then do it again.
  13. Here are some timing wheels, 12 tooth, which tooth style should I use?
  14. Ok, I'm making a 36T full tooth count to try. If I get errors, I'll back the tooth count down & see what happens. I'll put a timing light on it to see if the ecu keeps timing consistent even with the odd fire nature of these motors.
  15. Ok, I was thinking just going with 36 teeth, no missing. Since this is a two cyl, odd fire, wouldn't more teeth give more resolution? Especially when it goes over TDC? Seems like at 6 teeth, the ecu would see a tooth, then the engine could decelerate on compression, then accelerate rapidly on the power stroke, causing timing errors? These engines run about like an air impact gun, hitting hard, then coasting until another hit.
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